Patrick Oliver

I accidentally caught my PB Muskie (52") this fall on Lake St. Claire using a light moderate action casting rod (Megabass Rapid Viper) on 10# J-Floro. I just took my time.. the fish continued to overpower my gear but I have a good drag ('16 Metanium) and a good buddy with the landing net. I've tried them all from mono, to copoly, to floro, to 4 strand braid, 8 strand braid, sinking braid.. Go with what you like and gives you confidence. We all used Mono for years and it was fine. Braid needs a leader in gin clear water (usually) floro is expensive and isn't as limp as mono, even the pricey stuff. This forum is populated with tackle nerds who love to geek out on the best for this and the best for that. I'm the same when I comes to the way I fish but i'm also aware of going back to fundamentals that work time and time again. I'd say for your smallmouth, get a bulk spool of 6lb big game. Sure its stretchy but its tough, cheap, and just works. I've always found its better to have super sharp hooks than some uber expensive line... Have fun!

I always prefer the newest model because you get the latest tech. Diawa and Shimano religiously update their products on a regular basis and you can decide for yourself whether its worth it or not. Most of the time it is. One caveat - I purchased a Daiwa T3 SV around 2015 because it performs well and has a unique way to engage the clutch which I find really nice when pitching and Flipping. I ended up finding a couple more in new condition on eBay so there you have it!

Beautiful setup!

Basically what Kirtley recommends above. I use either mono or floro except I differ in by using braid on my Hvy/Mod. action as it provides a more powerful hookset with larger trebles. If there's pike around, which is common in the area's I fish, I'll put on an all black wire leader. Pulling larger cranks on stiffer, faster acting rods for pike/muskie, I go back to mono for the stretch as these rods are so powerful with little bend.

Yes there are several P5 options, maybe to many if there's such a thing. Up until now, i've been using a P5 Whippet, Luvias, braid/floro leader setup for all my BFS type needs. Over the last few months I've acquired a P5 Gravel Code (new for 2025) paired with a Calcutta Conquest BFS. I'm planning on spooling up 7# Shooter to start. Checkout The Hookup Tackle's youtube channel and other reviews as some options lend them selves better to bottom contact, others to trebles, and others seem to do it all. My reason for choosing the gravel code what I think its a nice pairing for the whippet. Don't forget to check out the MB Evoluzion line, there's a couple of very nice BFS options in that lineup.

Lucky me received a new Shimano Calcutta Conquest BFS from my kids this christmas, destined for the new P5 gravel code I purchased during a black friday sale. I have several shimano and diawa casting reels where I adjust to spool tension differently. For Diawa, I just remove any side to side play on the spool and then leave it alone. I adjust the brake basted on wind direction and performance, for the Shimano, I start with allowing the lure to drop slowly when the clutch is released followed by adjusting the brake based on wind direction and performance. If I can get away with it, I'll loosen to spool tension a bit to increase performance. So Diawa uses a magnet brake and typically Shimano uses a mechanical system. How should I treat my new Calcutta with the magnetic brake? As this is for BFS, I imagine the spool tension will be quite lite regardless.

Hi everyone, I have a '23 Ranger 521r and I've been considering running a dedicated feed, with disconnect switch, for my electronics from the cranking battery. A dedicated battery for the electronics will be considered at a later date as I'll be replacing the cranking battery with AGM. The boats equipped with 4 Tracker 100 Li from the factory which seem to hold up for what I use it for (no tournaments) As ranger already runs 6awg to at least the console (hooked to several loads) I'm just wondering if a dedicated line would improve the image quality (which is claimed by SeaClear). I would run the helm HDS16/Active Target/NMEA off a small fuse block at the helm and then continue to run 6awg to another small fuse block at the bow to power 2x HDS12s. I'm expecting that this "wouldn't hurt" but would prefer real world proof its available Thoughts? TIA, P.

I typically buy a reel and rod at the same time so I have a specific use/application in mind. I only have D's and S's which provide a ton of selection. A few other times I've bought a reel to upgrade/replace something and I use the same approach. Generally the more expensive the rod it, the more I spend on the reel..lol. Last combo is a MB P5 Gravel Code w/Calcutta Conquest BFS.

haha, I have a line inventory as well :). Its very helpful when its time to re-order.

I totally agree with this, you won't know unless you try it, feel it. My challenge lies with remembering all the different techniques that will work accross different rods. For example, my choice spinnerbait rod is also my choice med. sized paddletail swimbait rod. Now if I want both on deck it would be nice to have a list showing what other rods are i)available(not in use), and ii) suit the conditions (ie cover or open). Just something to trigger my memory..lol. Another benefit of making this list is it helped me determine all the teqniques that are available. When I really started thinking about it, my Windbuster looked like this:

I'm currently building a table for my 16 bass (5 spinning) rods so I don't have to think too hard where to put what when I'm out on the water. I'm starting with a table in excel but wondering if anyone on here does the same. As I get older my memory isn't what it used to be so little tools like this should help. I'm thinking that I can even save it as pdf and load it on my Lowrance HDS Live. I like the computer method vs. a not pad as I can update information as required. Thoughts?

Ha! never noticed this. I picked up a spool of 7# shooter which I'll try after I practice with something cheaper. I'm expecting a bit of a learning curve with this reel. Thanks every1 for all the great discussion!

Good information, thank you. I have 6 and 8# invisible on hand as well as 7# J-Floro that I can try. I'm thinking that you may find better performance from a heavier PE but each application will have its own specific nuances. BTW, how do you like the combo? The Calcutta BFS isn't too heavy for that rod?

Good day everyone. I currently have a BFS setup on order which consists of the MB P5 Gravel Code and the Conquest BFS HG. I was originally going to use a 6/7/8 lb floro on it (shooter) but a lot of the videos i've been watching are recommending a PE 0.06 in a hi viz color and a 6/7/8# floro leader. What are your thoughts on this? FWIW, i always run PE/Floro on my spinning setups because I like the sensitivity and all my reels are high quality with excellent drags. For example, I landed a 4# smallie this fall on a P5 Whippet, Diawa Luvius, 10# Suffix, 5# J-floro. Its amazing how much power these light power MB rods have down low. Thanks for your input! P.

I have the rapid viper and swamp survivor. I find these rods are a big step up from the Orochi XX if that helps. The Rapid Viper is an interesting rod to say the least. I use it exclusively for mid sized crank-baits (up to 1/2oz). Its quite moderate in action so I can't see using if for anything that doesn't have small hooks. Too sloppy for a jerkbait unless its really small. With this this said, its amazing for square bills and other shallow crankbaits. I caught 2 PBs on this rod this past summer, a 21" smallmouth and a 52"musky. Both on a MB Sonicside in Secret Gill. I have several MB rods and the one thing that impresses me the most is how you tell what the bait is doing and how much power they have down low. The 3 models you list are all moderate action and I'd recommend getting all 3 :-). Otherwise, the Elseil and Bandersatch look to be quite close and you may want to feel them in your hand to decide. I wouldn't go over 1/2oz on the Rapid Viper and leave the moderate and deep divers for the higher powered rods.

Depends on the weight of the spinnerbait (pair it to the rod rating) personally I prefer a fast action baitcasting rod for SBs as the moderate action rods bend to deep to effectively set the large single hook.

P5 Flyssa gets my vote as its the only one on your list that I own. Beautiful and sensitive rod will abundant power down low (Megabass trait). I use the rod for a crazy number of techniques incl. hair jigs, finesse football jigs, small underspins, MB screw-heads and small swim-baits, drop-shot, unweighted plastics, and spybaits. I would also consider finesse rigs with weights below 1/8 oz if you do that sort of thing. That said i'm sure any of those rods would work for this as well, if its got an xfast tip it would work for strolling as well.

Sounds like a fun project :)_

Congrats! What are the specs? Engine and battery maintenance is important for trouble free use. I've had boats all my life so if you have any specific questions or would like to talk some things through pls send me a PM. Love to help!

Great suggestions everyone, thank you. Considering how old these are they do perform extremely well and I'd hate to replace them I have a few Mets and Bantams and they've got nothing on these. Cant see that there's a bent spool shaft, likely a bit of lube on the brake drum will do it as this is something ive never done.

I have 2 (Circa 2014?) Chronarchs (one std, one HG) on med/heave moderate action rods that I use for Crankbaits and Chatterbaits. They don't see a ton of use and they are regularly serviced. Also, I've upgraded the spool bearings a few years ago. Issue is that one of them started buzzing during a cast. I checked all the breaks (I have 2 turned on) to make sure nothing was stuck. Any ideas? TIA< P.