bowtech_182

When you say sit down in the back do you mean that because of the location of the motor, or the location of you? With the Powerdrive it has a 17' foot control that will reach to the back so I can sit at the stern and drive the bow mounted motor. How differently does a bow mounted motor handle as compared to a stern drive? I have not driven either one so I have no comparisons to make. Andy

1. It would be very rare foe me to stay out past 4-5 hours 2. Don't know as I have never used a TM before 3. Not very big or windy, one has a lot of weeds 4. I thought about running 2 batteries just for a safety factor and I can get them relatively cheap 5. Don't know as I have not yet fished off of any boat and am not sure how fast I am going to get around. The beginning question was more about location of the TM on the bow only verses having a stern motor for running around. Andy

I am getting close with my boat project to getting a trolling motor. The boat is a 14ft aluminum v-hull. I am not putting an outboard on the boat and I really want a foot control trolling motor. Does anyone use a bow mount trolling motor as their only source of propulsion? Does it make it more difficult to get to the fishing spot, or does it not even matter? The motor I am looking at is the MK powerdrive V2 40 lb. Thanks for any opinions. Andy

I guess I should feel lucky that I have not had any catastrophic backlashes that everyone is talking about as it would get expensive to keep replacing all that P-Line Evolution.

I have just started fishing with a BPS extreme baitcaster. I am doing alright, but I still get quite a few backlashes. I have heard that you need to pick them out. Can someone explain this a little better. What am I trying to accomplish by picking at them? I have been just pulling line off the spool and eventually they go away, but if there is a better way I am all for it. Andy

watermelon/black flake, watermelon/red flake then pumpkin/black flake in that order. Andy

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It is now primed and I am trying to get the floor and seats done. I still need to make a top for the bow, cut out the front floor and back wall of the front floor which Right now it is just an OSB template. I also need to add all of the aluminum subfloor and stiffeners, etc. I added some storage for 3600 boxes under the front seat. I am more than welcome to comments or seggestions.

there is no wood on it right now. It looks like it had a piece of plywood that is about 18"x48" on the outside, with a board about 6" wide on the inside spanning the width of the boat. I was thinking of just using a piece of 1/2" plywood on both the outside and the inside. Andy

What thickness fo plywood should I use for the transom on a 14 ft aluminum v-hull? I need the inside and outside thicknesses. I do not have an outboard, and if I do add one it will be under 10 HP? Andy

I now have 99% of the paint off and am going to be alodining, filling dents and I have one repair to do where I blended through the hull while I was removing some bad exfo corrosion. I also have to figure out how to fix one of the gunwales. It is cracked and bent which is putting an oilcan in the side of the boat. I really need to cut about 18" out of the middle of it and put an insertion in. Does anyone know where I can get extrusion like you would use on a gunwale?

I think That I am just going to use the Devcon. Here is a link to what it is. http://www.devcon.com/devconfamilyproduct.cfm?familyid=107&sr=1 I don't quite understand what you mean by using the yellow primer, can you elaborate on it a little more. Andy

After getting paint off my aluminum boat there are some dents and creases I would like to smooth out before I alodine, prime and paint. Can I just use normal bondo body filler? I also have some devcon aluminum putty which has the consistency of bondo that I can use if that would be better. I guess I am worried about the filler popping off with the flex of the boat. I will be painting the boat with a 2 part epoxy primer with a polyurethane aircraft paint if it matters. Andy

I also use CXX on my spinning reel. 6 lb test which has similar breaking strength to hybrid ultra soft (11.? lbs) It does not jump off my reel unless I overfill it and memory is not that bad. Andy

under the 8 coats of paint I learned that the boat is a Crestliner and the title says 1956 not 1959 like I thought. I plan on a 6ft deck on the bow 12" off the floor to gain some storage and floors the rest of the way with a bench or two. Stripping paint is now on my three least favorite things to do I have done about a 1'x4' patch so far. Andy

It is in suprisingly good shape for its age. I found a little corrosion and a few cracks coming from rivet holes, but I am an aviation sheetmetal mechanic so I am very proficient in fixing aluminum. I have to get a plug and a paddle tomorrow and I am going on the maiden voyage to see how it floats or sinks and to check the stability of it for decking. Andy

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I bought this boat and trailer today from a coworker for $125. It is a 1959 model and 14' long 55" wide. Now the fun part of stripping the paint, making repairs, building seats, deck and floor. Then it is alodine, prime and paint. More pictures to follow. Andy

[quote author=DELee36 link=1182812797/0#5 date=1182950010 by outdoor we are not talking about the ugly green plastic stuff are we??? we are talking about the UV treated tight weave regular carpet like you would use on a porch or patio right? The outdoor stuff will work, it is treated as for UV as well, but comapring it side to side with the marine stuff...the marine is better quality, a softer pile, and seemed more plyable and workable to me.

When carpeting a jonboat's floor and decks what kind of carpet is everyone using. I saw some rubber backed carpet at Lowes. They just ripped a bunch of carpet up a work it is short pile office carpet in good condition. Would this be acceptable to save me $50, or should I buy the rubber backed stuff at Lowes. Andy

My 10-12 foot jon boat might have grown up to be a 14ft v hull 55" wide at the gunwale. Does 200 lbs for that boat seem about right? Andy

If you want to rivet the plate to your boat I would suggest that you not use pop rivets. Why can you not bolt it along the side? I am an aviation sheetmetal mechanic so I shoot rivets on a daily basis. If you are going to use rivets go to your local airplane repair station and have them shoot some solid AD style rivets in there. If you only have access to one side you can ask them to shoot some cherrymax rivets in there. It is a pop rivet on streoids and is much stronger than a normal pop rivet. Depending on the size of the plate I would also go up to at least .125" plate Andy