The Next KVD

For the past year I've been waiting on a pinion gear that has been on backorder for one of my Shimano Curado E7's. Tired of waiting and searching ebay and calling everyone I can think of to see if they got one in stock, I'm wondering if a gear set from a G7 would fit in its place provided I get the appropriate drag stack seeing as how those seem to be in-stock?? Unless someone has a pinion gear they would like to get rid of?

Looks like a predecessor to the FinTech jigs

I use a St.Croix Legend Elite 7ft Med. with a Fast action paired a Shimano Chronarch 100BSV spooled with 10lb P-Line CX Premium. Been using it for the past 4 years with no issues. The CX Premium has enough stretch to it to keep the fish buttoned up with trebles and the rod loads very nicely.

I would get the 7ft MH. Not too long to get in the way of making accurate roll casts around trees and docks when fishing squarebills but still is somewhat long enough (although not ideal) to cast deep cranks long distances to get them down. 7ft rods can do ALOT and if I could choose only one rod length for all my fishing this would be it. Not ideal for everything but can do well enough for most techniques.

Get the PQ. No other reel can touch it at that price.

sorry he sent those to your house by mistake. Please mail them to my address asap........... Congrats.

Don't fear you can still get the XL in the old original formula. You can order it from Mills Fleet Farm. Unfortunately there are none of these stores in Illinois from what I can see on there website. http://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/berkley-trilene-xl-fishing-line/0000000010913 Right now through the 18th they got Free Shipping. Only available in clear though.

That makes sense. I did put the bearing back in there. Thanks for the clarification but I would think the reel would actually perform better had they got it to make constant contact with the spool shaft. Oh well.

So while I was cleaning the 2 BPS Pro Qualifiers I own today I couldn't help but notice the bearing under the cast control knob does not even make contact with the spool shaft thus not even spinning doing the intended purpose of a bearing. After cleaning the reel and giving it a few test cast and retrieves I decided to take that particular bearing out and it did not make a single bit of difference in casting or retrieve. Way to go for tolerances. But than I went and looked at my Lews Tournament Speed Spool which shares a similar design and what do you know it too has that same bearing not even touching the spool shaft at all. I know the bearing on the spool shaft that sits in the frame is more or less the reasoning for keeping the spool shaft centered but come on if your going to include a bearing atleast make it touch the spool shaft so it does its job. Still a great reel for the price but even the Lews at 1.5 times the price has this bearing doing nothing other than adding weight. Not for sure why I bothered posting this but I guess its a way to vent from poor design unless someone can tell me why they even did this other than to say "This reel has 7 bearings".

Most lines will sink with the exception to braid once the surface tension has been broken. Did you lightly set the line in the water or just let it splash down from a distance? Also most mono and copoly in most cases sink at a slower rate than fluorocarbon and leaves a bow in the line which impacts the lines sensitivity and ability of crankbaits to pull the line down to help it dive. (Water temp, amount of line out, line density, ect will depict how fast a line will sink) A crankbait will actually dive deeper with 10lb braid than 10lb fluoro or 10lb mono because its diameter is smaller allowing the bait to pull the line down easier. Too many variables for me to give an accurate answer but this is my opinion on this. I say if you like the line for a particular technique stick to it and don't switch because someone says this or that because their style of fishing may be different than yours. A good example of this is Rick Clunn. The guy fishes crankbaits with mono exclusively where everyone one else fishes with fluoro. Y? Because of how he works the bait and his particular setups.

I got a good deal on ebay a few years back on my ALL-TIME favorite reel series: Shimano Chronarch 100BSV for $119. That and any old Curado 200b can be had all day long on ebay for $80.

Its kind of hard to make a quality reel in America for a budget price under $150. Labor is extremely expensive here compared to overseas. I fished with a buddies XS1000 once which at the time did not impress me with the exception that it casted extremely long distances. I have picked up a few of the more recent introductions in stores and still not impressed. Their $300 reels are more like $70 reels made overseas in terms of smoothness but that's my personal opinion and the fact that 1000 plus other people have probably played with the display model may have something to do with it. I love the idea of American made but when it comes to fishing reels I look to Made in Japan.

I have the 7'11" XXH Micro Magic. One would think this would be the best mat punching rod and swimbait rod in the lineup but its not. The rod has too much of a moderate action for my taste in a punching rod. HOWEVER, this has become my all time favorite rod to fish buzzbaits on. I usually fish buzzbaits on mono and with the moderate action this rod gives the fish plenty of time to get the bait before it reacts and drives the hook home. I can catapult a buzzbait extremely long distances. I also like this rod for lighter swimbaits AND deep diving crankbaits so long as you are using mono or fluoro with a lot of stretch ( Seaguar Invizx comes to mind). Forget about using braid with a long leader with these rods. I have also had no problems fishing with 50lb braid on this rod. The only thing I really am disappointed is with the sensitivity. I expected a lot more in that department when I tried using it for dragging jigs with some quality fluorocarbon. I'm not sure if this translates to the other rods in the lineup because I'm sure the actions are probably different on them but Duckett doesn't list them so I only assume they are all moderate to moderate/fast.

I would get the 7' MH Avid. .

Probably possible to wear them out but it would take a few decades. The oldest rod I got is a St. Croix Legend that I bought from a friend who got it when he first got on their pro staff back in 1995. 18 years later it is one of my favorite rods and still going strong. I don't replace rods unless they break.

Just finishing up my first season on my first PQ that I bought when they were on sale fro 79.99. I really like the reel and it would be my all time favorite if they had a better way to open up the side plate to get to the centrifical brakes. I hate the stupid pin they use because it is hard to pull out all the way in order to get the side plate to turn clearly. Other than that it gets a 9/10 for me. Would be 10/10 if they used a screw pin like the Lews have. This is coming from a guy who mainly has Chronarchs on his rods.

The guy that got me into fishing still has some bags of Berkley Powerbait when they first came out in the 80's. Don't know why he hasn't used them but they still feel good in hand.

Don't skimp out on fluorocarbon. The cheaper stuff (Original Vicious, Vanish, Stren, Spiderwire EZ fluoro) will cause you to HATE flouro for the rest of your life. Upgrade to something more in that midrange price of $17 to 25 for a 200 yard spool. I currently am using Sunline FC Sniper and it is AWESOME! (16lb test is my favorite!) Handles just as good as mono yet has little stretch and awesome abrasion resistance and sensitivity. A lot of guys like Seaguar Invisx but I find that it has a little too much stretch for my taste. My previous favorite is P-Line 100% and it is priced the same as Sunline but comes in 250 yard spools so its a little cheaper/yard. Also don't forget the KVD Line and Lure! It sounds like a gimmick but its not.

The new Clarus is built on the same blank as the previous Compre's while the Compre got upgraded to the previous Crucial and the Crucial upgraded to the previous Cumaras which of course are now basically the new Cumulus. I wouldn't hesitate to get the new Clarus based on that its the "new" Compre. I would say the sensitivity of the one that I own is on par maybe alittle than a Veritas based on how my previous gene Compre is. If I was you though I'd spend an extra $20 to get the new Compre.

That's weird. I got the settings exactly the same but I have no problem launching cranks just as far as my Curado 100D. I would say play with your spool tension knob.

How many brakes do you have set on? How high to you got the magnets set? How tight do you got the spool tension knob? What kind of setup are you using? How heavy of a bait are you throwing? Line? The deeper spool on the 5.2 geared PQ's actually cast farther because they weigh more when fully spooled which adds inertia and makes the spool harder to slow down resulting in a longer cast than a shallow spool. The deeper spools are not the best option for light baits and flipping/Pitching because they have a slower start up speed. What reel are you comparing your ProQ to?

I hate to admit it but now that I finally got on the water with one I fell in love with it. It is SMOOTHER than any of my Shimano Chronarchs and I'm married to them. Casts great. I'm not to keened on the stuff inside of the reel but this is coming from a Shimano guy who knows atleast those reels have barely any plastic parts in them.

If stored properly it will last years on the spool. I remember reading an article on bassmaster.com with Aaron Martens saying he's got spools of line that is nearly 10 years old that he still uses. If it was braid, I wouldn't even worry about it unless it was stored in a wet environment as it does eventually rot.

Why didn't you send it to Kistler for warranty. They probably would've fixed it or shipped a new comparable model (if its discountinued). I didn't even know they made telescopic cranking sticks.