The Next KVD

x3 for KVD L&L!

Welcome!! It all depends on your price range. For the most part that particular reel will do the job just fine. However if your looking for something a little bit nice yet not break the bank I'd get either a Shimano Citica G7 ($100-129 depending on where you find it) or a Bass Pro Shops Pro Qualifier with a 7.1:1 ratio (On sale right now for $79!). I just got a Pro Qualifier and I like it thus far but unfortunately we still got 2 feet of ice so I'm not quite sold on it as I have no on the water test to compare to. I use 10-12lb P-Line 100% fluorocarbon but if your not use to fluorocarbon, P-line CX Premium is a good alternative. I don't care for braid for bottom baits because it has no sensitivity when there is any amount slack in the line. Fluorocarbon or a good copolymer will transmit bites on semi slack line because it sinks. As far as the rod, I use a St.Croix Legend 7' Medium which is a high end rod. Anything from St.Croix, Shimano (Compres and up), GLoomis are good quality rods. For the cover your describing I'd go up to a 7' MH rod from any of these manufactures.

Its funny, this bait is what I used to catch my first bass ever 14 years ago and it was a good one at 4-1 which is on my wall. Because of that fish I really got hooked into this sport. I haven't used one since seeing as how the only one I own is the one that caught that first bass. That lure is in its orginal box next to the fish. Probably should go out and invest in a few to get that kid feeling again.

Kistler rods are NOT MADE IN AMERICA. The only exception to this is their KLX rods which are only available through their website. The resf of their rods are Made in China. I will agree on the lack of USA made reels. Ardent is the only one and I'm not a fan. However, I'm willing to buy a reel Made in Japan due to them being a major ally of ours. I actually would not hesitate to buy something made elsewhere as long as it is not China. The only chinese made products that I buy are tungsten sinkers because no one makes them in any other country which is a shame.

St.Croix rods with the exception of the Mojo and Triumph lines, Ardent reels, Powerteam Lures, Lazer Trokar hooks, Mega Strike, Norman crankbaits, Berkley fishing lines (except fluorocarbon where every brand is either made in Japan or Germany), Vicious fishing line (except fluorocarbon), they are out there just look at the packages. As of right now if you buy tungsten worm weights they are all made in China. Alot of Strike King stuff is made in Mexico

I've used my moms a few times just for kicks. Its a good reel for the beginner or for someone like my mom who does not fish competetively or matted vegetation. Smooth retrieve, casts well. I would order a few but I prefer somethin with an aluminum frame. Not that the composite frame of the Black Max is bad, I just don't trust it for flipping matted vegetation with heavy braid. That and I already got plenty of backup reels sitting on the shelf.

I'll let you know this spring. Just ordered some along with a PQ. Wanted to see what all the fuss was over the PQ and always wanted to try XPS fluoro.

Are you possibly High Sticking the fish? By this I mean grabbing the rod far up on the blank to provide more leverage to get them out of the water. If you are that is a BIG NO NO! This will put extra stress on the blank and does not allow it to load up properly thus breaking the blank. Just a thought seeing as how no one else has asked this or mentioned it.

Spike-it is awesome. Wish I tried it sooner. I really like giving a green pumpkin stickbait just a hint of chart. to the tail. Also love dying crawtube tentacles. Just sayin.

When I boat swing fish in, I use the fish's momentum and sweep the rod from the one side of my body to the other at a low angle. I also never do this on anything over 3lbs unless the fish is really coming at me. Never broke a rod yet, but than again I am using St.Croix's.

Depends on how a fish sees it and what it is feeding on. If you were to look at a beaver bait from the top looking down, you will notice it has the profile of a small bluegill. This is how I believe a fish views one most of the time, especially while flippin. Otherwise if they are feeding on craws than they probably view it as a craw. A regular craw bait can not represent both at the same time and this is why I no longer throw them. Kill 2 birds with one stone as they say. Get you some beavers!

Not trying to start a fight or anything, just curious on your logic. Say your 20 feet away from the object your pitching to and once you work that object you need to reel the bait back through dead water before the next pitch. How is it that the extra 3-4 IPT of the reel spool does not get your bait back to the boat faster than say a 6.3:1 that has 26-27 IPT of the reel spool? You are shaving an 2-3 seconds (Yes, I've timed it) off that time that the bait is in dead water, not add up to an extra couple of pitches/flips in a days time? I agree with everything else your saying though.

To me its like a calculation of many factors. Everything in nature is put into that calculation/equation. A fish is a predator that takes everything into consideration to optimize its ability to feed. Its extremely hard to explain details on paper and once you go through alot of trial and error you will start to understand how a fish behaves under a set of conditions. An example I can give: Sunny+ cold water+ clear water+no wind = Negative fish = small strike zone, slow moving baits, small in size, natural colors, tight to cover Another would be: Partly Sunny+Warm water+ clear water+wind= active fish= wide strike zone, faster moving baits, mid to large in size, natural colors, There are exceptions for every set of conditions but even the pros will tell you for the most part they are guessing. HOWEVER its an EDUCATED GUESS they learned through trial and error as well as seasonal patterns as to where the fish should be and how they should behave. WATCH alot of instructional videos on fishing such as The Bass Pros. However, you can not beat on the water experience. I know I'm really kinda butchering this and may not be saying it right but like I said its extremely hard to explain on paper. You will learn it with experience and it becomes a part of your natural instinct.

Yup, I'd use it. Your not working the bait with the reel, your using the rod. You won't get bit reeling the bait in anyways (with a few exceptions). Law of Averages. More flips, more bass. That extra second or two that you gain per flip adds up real quick especially over 8 hours. If you need to slow down, slow down your cadence.

THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A KVD 2.5. This topic never ever came up. You just stick to throwing a 1.5.

Its a 3 Way tie for me between a)Storm WiggleWart in Firetiger b)KVD Squarebill 2.5 in Chart./Blk Back c)Strike King Series 5XD in Ghost Minnow

end of May for Memorial Day

For some unkown reason to me, when all else fails a pink Trick Worm rigged weightless is the ticket. I don't know what it is about it. I've had days in the middle of the summer and in extremely clear water where that stupid color just flat out kicks butt. I don't hardly ever throw that color except out of sheer desperation and 99% of the time it salvages the day.

They do make decent moving bait rods though. I wouldn't use one to punch a mat or worm and jig fish though.

Yes, all Falcons are. Kinda why I went away from them but I still got a Cara 6'10" Heavy and a Lowrider 6'10" Heavy. I'll stick to my St.Croix's..

So I just took the past hour of my life to read every post on this thread. All I can say is, I may as well take up golf because 99.99% of everything mentioned, I have used and will use when the situation calls for it. I will be glad to cash a check or win an event using a technique that YOU REFUSE to use. Umbrella-Rigs, C-Rigs, Deep-cranking, Dock skippin, Wacky riggin, heck it don't matter I will use them to beat YOU when the situation/lake calls for it. Same can be said for certain colors: Firetiger is my #1 color and Bubblegum has a time and place. When it comes to $ per bait, I think it actually comes down to what brands you prefer and your confidence in them. I have fished Megabass Vision 110's and other high end stuff and do own them but I just prefer a brand that happens to be cheaper. What does this all come down to? Every bait and every technique is a tool of the trade that has its purpose and situation. You wouldn't use a screwdriver to pound nails just like you wouldn't throw an Umbrella rig with swimbaits into matted vegetation. Each to their own I guess. What works for someone may not work for you ( I think this is due to lack of confidence personally). I'm comfortable with everything but that doesn't mean someone else is with certain stuff. You fish best when you are comfortable and confident in what you are using/doing.

Best and Cheapest way to do it!! Plus if you ever need a little spare change while towing the boat, its right there behind you! lol.

The article on another site said they were prototype Velocitys.

I use to be a believer in rattles on jigs however, after using them without rattles last year I found that it does not make any difference. A bass is extremely aware of everything happening around it, even in muddy water thanks to its lateral line. I believe as long as you can get the jig near a fish it will know its there. Sometimes its just a matter of hitting them on the head with it to get a fish to react and bite.

Its tough to make a reel smoother. Smoothness comes down to how tight of tolerances the manufacture builds the reel. The only thing I can say is take it apart, clean and lube. Other than that buying upgraded bearings from say ABEC 5 to ABEC 7 bearings or even go ceramic is really the only way, but the effects are not very noticeable. For this wouldn't waste money buying ABEC 7 bearings for the handle knobs, I would focus on the spool support bearngs and maybe the bearing under the drive gear. If it is a used reel, buying a new drive and pinion gears to replace the old ones will increase smoothness as well. I replace the gears in all my reels every 2 years. Brass does wear, especially as much as I fish. You want smooth buy a reel that has extremely tight tolerances such as Calais, Cores, Steez, Revo Premiers, ect.. High end big money reels.