fishindad

There's a place next to the "spillway" that rents brand new PolarKraft boats with fish finders, and I'm not 100% sure but as long as you stay in US waters you can go anywhere on the lake. Good luck and post a report!

G-Man, I understand your situation as I too was young once and had less cash for tackle. I use Sunline fluorocarbon line but only for a couple of specific tactics. I'll use 7 lb. Sniper for dropshotting smallies on Lake St. Clair and Erie and 8 lb. for dragging tubes on Lake St. Clair. I also use 10 lb. on my wacky Senko rod. You mentioned rattlebaits. In my humble opinion, the best line setup for just about all horizontal baits is braid with a fluorocarbon leader. Use a uni-to-uni knot or an Albright knot and you'll be fine as long as you take your time and tie the main line to leader knot correctly. Then you won't have to worry about expensive spools of fluorocarbon line or wasting it due to breakoffs. And make sure to use a heavy enough leader i.e., 10-17 lb. at least, depending on the weight of baits you're throwing.

G-Man, Ask 10 people, you'll get 10 different answers. Again, no disrespect to other opinions but I take the high road and will not slam on other brands. What works for one application/angler doesn't work for another. Like others, I've tried many and found one that I feel is superior. And my being Japanese has nothing to do with my choice, lol. Take home message - give two or three brands a try and see what works for you.

Not trying to start a brand war here being that I have not tried every single brand of fluoro on the market BUT, no need to since Sunline Sniper in 7lb., 8 lb. and 10 lb. test is everything one would ever need or want to do with fluorocarbon. Do yourself a favor and get some and try it out. You will not be disappointed.

Agree 100% with Guy's tips. I drop shot a lot and have recently been testing out braid with fluoro leader vs. straight fluoro; will report back after a few more outings. So far my take is that braid takes some adjustments getting used to but it is more sensitive and does cut down on line twists, though does not eliminate them. All spinning reels put some inherent twist in line. First practice the two tips above and see if that helps before switching to braid. You can also try using a baitcaster to DS (I have not) and theoretically will solve your problem but I personally just can't get used to DS with a baitcaster.

Thanks Dwight. I thought about the LT spinning rods for cranking but I'm kind of old school and can't get used to cranking with a spinning reel. I'm going to give the Avid MM a try - sounds like it works for you on Erie smallies. Can't go wrong with the SC rods, there's too many choices!

Thanks guys. I have a couple of Crucial dropshot rods and I love them. I have no doubt the Cumaras are sweet. Just that I have a couple of SC LT bass rods and love them as well. I don't need to get the LT version of the MM and MHM, more like a 'want' as you mentioned Whets. I've got Falcon baitcasters so am leaning that way since I have not used split grip baitcasters. Maybe I can convince my St Croix Avid buddy to get the Avid for me to use!

Oh yeah, forgot to mention, the SC Legend Tournament models.

Recent member here. I'm looking for one or two new crankbait rods. Am trying to decide between Falcon's 7'3" deep runner and St Croix's 7' Med and MH models. Mostly will be throwing DT 4's, 6's, and 10's. Maybe DT 14's too. On big water (Great Lakes) using 10 and 12 lb. line. I know, may not be able to do this on only one rod. Budget is 'around' $200 per rod. Anyone have experience with any of these rods? Or better yet, give me feedback on which is best at throwing said cranks - for smallies? Will probably use for lipless cranks too. Thanks in advance.

farmer, Have you fished with the Fenwicks? Side-by-side with the Crucials? Don't get me wrong, I LOVE the Crucial. But I did accidentally break one in two last Summer, down towards the handle and was very surprised at the "flimsy-ness" or lack of thickness to the graphite shaft. I've got Loomis and Falcon rods and there is a reason the Crucials are priced as such. Good Fuji components but still an import blank (and I'm from Japan!). I'm guessing the ET's are made in China also? I'm mostly wanting a bit longer rod, but not as long as the 7'2" Crucial. And one that doesn't have such a noticeable "hinge" feel fighting a smallie. More parabolic. Maybe I need to look closer at the DSR rods? Mainly I am looking to try out a new DS stick this year but would like to have some first-hand words from folks who have fished the Elite Tech rods. My bud's got the Croix 6'9" MLXF and that did not feel as nice as the Crucial, to me. Thanks

I am looking to upgrade my dropshot rod from the 6'8" Crucial MXF to possibly one of the Fenwick Elite Tech rods. Common sense dictates my going with the 6'7" M version instead of the 6'10" ML version but I have no place locally to feel the action of either Fenwick rod. And I do want a bit longer rod than what I now use. Does anyone have any experience with either or both of these ET rods? What can you tell me - good and bad? Or do I get the Loomis M dropshot rod? I have felt the DSR820 and it is too light and whippy for my fishing style. Since these rods are all in the same price range it is a tough decision and I would appreciate any comments and advice.

Trev, I would suggest one of the angler's backpacks for what you want/need. They will be MUCH easier to tote around and they also allow space to carry lunch and a rain jacket, rod tube, etc. I've used a backpack on my buddy's boat when I want to carry more than just tackle boxes and it works great. I think Cabela's sells one, it's not cheap but I am sure your dad would love it. Otherwise, places like REI or LL Bean sell fanny-type packs which will hold a couple of smaller tackle boxes plus misc. gear. Or some of the flyfishing shops will have a better selection since those guys are usually on foot patrol, pond-hopping. Jim

Hey surfer, Thanks for asking questions, that is how we learn, right? And, thanks for not taking my comment about being rough on tackle too personally. I just meant that even with the limited replacement warranty, if you break a Loomis (I have) or St. Croix, you'll feel bad anyway until you get the new rod, which is not 'free' but will feel like it when compared to buying a new one outright. Anyway, stick with your decision and don't buy any tackle based on what someone else uses or says works for them. Only after you gain experience (which really means spend lots more money on tackle) will you figure what equipment works best for you. As far as the 4 main presentations, I was generalizing, based on which lures have won money in BASS/FLW tournaments. Not that the weekend fisherman (like me) will fish the same lures as a tournament fisherman. For example, I have a demanding job and 2 kids which means my time on the water is very limited. So I choose to fish the way that is most enjoyable to me as well as the most productive based on where I fish (natural lakes) and what I fish for (smallies). I choose to fish mainly soft plastics, mostly grubs, jigs, and tubes. (I love a jig bite; that telltale 'thunk' always makes me excited). So I can get by with one or two rods really. You hit the nail on the head that horizontal presentations are generally retrieved fast and the jigs and worms (vertyical) are fished slow. When the fish are active, meaning at certain times of the year, it is hard to beat a fast presentation. The fish will chase down baits. When throwing spinnerbaits, always try to 'bump the stump' meaning weeds, docks, rocks, stumps. Anything that makes the bait do something erratic which will trigger the bass. Same goes for crankbaits. Always try to choose one that run a couple feet deeper than the depth you are fishing and bump the bottom. Your strike ratio will go up noticeably when you do this. Use the spinnerbaits around snags and the cranks around more open water (for obvious reasons = treble hooks snag weeds).But, most of the time the fish are not actively roaming or chasing and you will need to slow down and drop a worm in front of their face. I will say that if you can get proficient = confident fishing spinnerbaits and crankbaits, AND jigs and worms, you'll be just as 'dangerous' on the water as Rick Clunn. I loved reading your last post. You want to learn more and you are discovering what any angler, novice or pro seeks to know...will this lure on the end of my line make the fish bite. The last piece of advice I can give you as someone who has a basement full of lures that never get wet anymore is KISS...Keep It Simple. Learn how to fish those 4 types of baits (though not necessarily those 4 I listed) well and you will be way ahead of the game we all play, catching more and bigger bass. Good luck and have fun. Jim

surfer, These folks have all given you great advice. Like them, I have used many brands of rods including custom built by Thorne Bros. as well as Loomis IMX and GLX. I can add a few things to consider. 1. What techniques do you like to bass fish with? If you're a 'rookie' then I suggest you learn what I call the 4 basics: wormin, jigs, spinnerbaits and crankbaits. By this I mean two vertical techniques and two horizontal techniques. If you had four high/top end rod and reel combos to do this it could set you back $1K-$2K easily. 2. Are you rough on your tackle? I am guessing you may not have a rod locker on your boat? High end tackle is like an investment and you need to take care of it. Maybe not baby it but ask any of these guys and I'm sure they'll tell you you can't neglect your stuff and let it bounce around in the boat. 3. It is not what rod and reel you're using that matters in boating fish, it's how well you can present the baits and how well you can detect strikes, especially when fishing jigs and worms. You need to develop a feel for casting and working these baits...there is no shortcut to catching fish. All that said, if I had to do it all over again, I would agree with roadwarrior and have all Loomis (or St. Croix) top end rods and Daiwa (or Shimano) reels. However, in my humble opinion, I say you should look at Falcon rods, specifically the Lowrider series. These are IMO the best value as well as they have an incredible selection of bass specific rods to choose from. I can recommend a few if you like. You can get two for the price of an IMX and what you want to do now is start with one really nice spinning combo and one really nice casting combo. Bite the bullet and learn how to use a baitcaster and you won't regret it. In any case, look at Falcon's LFS-5-1610, a MH spin rod 6'10" long, a sweet rod (I have the casting version). With 10-12 lb. line it can do all the heavier stuff. For the lighter stuff they have the LFS-4-1610, a new rod I have not used. I am not sponsored in any way by Falcon (or any other rod company) I'm just a weekend angler who like everyone else, is still learning about bass fishing. I hope I didn't confuse you even more. Good luck with your rod selection. You can't go go wrong with any of the rod companies like Loomis, St. Croix, Falcon or Lamiglas (all made in the USA). Jim

Thanks fellows. I will try to get to Cabela's soon and feel the PR844S for myself. I don't think they have the GLX Bronzeback rod on the floor which is too bad. I want to stay away from extra fast action rods, they just don't work for me as far as keeping big smallies buttoned. I will drop the coin for a GLX since it will be my main smallmouth rod also. Good fishin' to you... Jim

Thanks for the advice roadwarrior. The reason I asked is because the grubs I fish have an open (exposed) hook though much "beefier" than a live bait hook. I think the PR would have enough backbone to drive the hook in as long as I keep pressure on the fish. What about one of the Bronzeback rods such as the SMR882-SP or the SMR822-SP in GLX? Both are I assume typical fast action Loomis rods. It's just that I want (don't we all) maximum sensitivity, extra casting distance, and tops at keeping the fish hooked (not that I lose many big smallies). It's a lot of cash to drop one one rod but it would be my main rod for grub fishing which is my favorite technique. Thanks. Oh and I will give the 6 lb. Yo-zuri line a try for sure!

Greetings! I have a question for roadwarrior and any other users of the Loomis PR844S rod. I am wanting to get a premium spinning rod, 7-7.5 ft. to throw 4"-5" single tail grubs for smallies. With 1/8-1/4 oz darter heads, typically, and mostly 3/16th oz. My decision comes down to the SJR902 IMX or the PR844S GLX rod. I am thinking that a mod action is better? I now own most to all fast action (MBR as well as Techna AV). I will also use either 6-8lb. (dia) Tectan or perhaps 10 lb. Fireline. In your opinion(s), which rod would work better, the 902 or the 844? I know it's apples (IMX) to oranges (GLX) thus not a fair comparison but I care more about function really, especially if I use Fireline. Is the 844 really a "live bait only" kinda rod? The 902 was designed for big water tubes and grubs which I now do but with a 6 1/2 footer. Can anyone help a guy out? Thanks much! Jim