fishindad

Enjoyed the informative read, thanks for sharing your thoughts and opinions about fluorocarbon as a fishing line. Like most others here, I've tried braid (PP, Fireline, 832), mono (Tectan), copolymers (too many), and fluorocarbon (mostly Sunline) and braid/fluoro leader. There is no perfect line for all fishing situations. No question braid manages better than other lines especially on spinning reels. Braid is the strongest line for its diameter. Braid excels in grass fishing and it floats unlike mono or fluoro. But it's the least invisible. Thus the braid/leader marriage. Yes, straight fluoro is a pain to use but the way I see it, trout/steelhead anglers have used it as leader material and we 'assume' trout are more line-shy than bass. Saltwater anglers have been using fluorocarbon much longer than bass anglers and they deal with much bigger and tougher fish than bass (greater abrasion resistance). And I think we can all agree that flats fishing (ultraclear, shallow water) for bonefish is probably the most difficult thing to do stealth-wise. Finally, Aaron Martens has been one of the most vocal proponents of fluorocarbon line and I dare you to find a more successful pro bass angler the past 5 years. My rookie opinion is if one wants a single fishing line that can combine the the best characteristics of mono and fluoro and is low cost then yes, a copoly like YZH (which I use and love) is the one to choose. But, if one wants to gain every possible edge or advantage in fooling a bass then why not use the characteristics of fluorocarbon line to your advantage? No reason not to utilize every possible advantage as long as it doesn't end up costing too much time and money. A-Jay brings up very important points about the fishing industry (and others) and marketing to we anglers. A great example - the Senko. Every company has a knockoff. Yes, the original Senko still costs more than the others. But nothing and I mean nothing works better than the GYCB Senko. Same with fluorocarbon line manufacturers. We all know many attempts (pick a company) are less than optimal and the consensus "best" (as of now Tatsu), which I haven't yet fished with is also the most expensive. That is where we as consumers need to figure out what is propaganda and what is true marketing of a product. Spend your hard-earned dollars wisely and don't judge a product based solely on knock-offs that don't represent the real deal.

That is one giant of a bass, David. I lived in NorCal in the mid-to-late 80's but never boated one that size!

Thanks, I do have a custom 'walleye jigging' rod made with a SJR722 IMX blank and I love it. But in terms of a dropshot-specific rod, it's difficult to know which blank is best for DS without fishing every manufacturer's. Can you recommend which rod blank you think would build the 'best' dropshot rod?

I posted this on another site but just want to give some helpful feedback to anyone looking for a new (or first) dropshot rod. I recently purchased a Dobyns DX702SF Extreme to upgrade from my first generation cork handle Crucial 6'8" dropshot rod, which is a superb DS stick that Shimano got right the first time. I have caught tons (OK, pounds) of LSC smallies on them but I wanted to find something even better that doesn't cost more than ~$300. I have it paired with a Ci4 2500 and 7lb. Sniper. I've had two outings with the 702 and this rod is nothing short of amazing. I am already considering getting a second one, lol. Went out yesterday and fished St Clair and caught over 20 smallmouth on the DS, with at least half being 17" plus. I've attached a photo of the biggest one, released after a quick picture. This is my first Dobyns rod. Besides the Crucial, I fish and have fished Falcon Caras and Lowriders, Legend Extreme, GLX and IMX, and Techna AVs. This DX702 has IMO, the perfect action, feel, and build for dropshotting. It has great sensitivity and is light in weight yet the thing that jumped out at me was the "feel" of the rod in hand, especially with a big smallie pegged. The guide sizes, guide spacing, rod length, tip action and power transition through the blank are spot on. No way for me to describe it other than one needs to fish it to know and understand. The only other rod I considered is the Orochi XX DS rod, which I imagine is also a sweet rod for dropshotting. I would guess the NRX DS rod has more sensitivity in hand and is lighter but, I can buy a Champion Extreme and Ci4 for the cost of one NRX. Besides, I have always thought Loomis could make their factory spinning rods so much better if they used a better guide train, similar to the DX or XX rods. Bottom line, there will definitely be more Dobyns rods in my arsenal.

Great post. Last sentence is spot on.

I'm going to try that FG knot. The only thing is it seems impossible to tie on the water in 20 mph winds with my 57 yo eyes, lol.

Thanks again. I am torn between going to a baitcaster for tube dragging or sticking with spinning tackle, which is what I prefer to use on St Clair (gets very windy). I'll try a spool of the 10lb Shooter first before I make any rod/reel switch.

Thanks iabass. I've used Sniper on spinning tackle but not Shooter. How do you think 10 lb. test would handle on a 2500 Daiwa spinning reel? Any worse than say P-Line CXX?

Thanks, I admit I should probably retie more often but also need to make a line change. Keep the suggestions coming, much appreciated!

Need some suggestions for what line others use for mostly dragging tubes over sand/gravel/zebra mussels for smallies with spinning tackle. I've tried braid with fluoro and straight braid but am not happy so far this year with either choice. I am thinking to use a straight abrasion-resistant copolymer line like Maxima or YZH, which I've used in lower lb tests and like them a lot. I do want to go with straight fluoro since they are sensitive and abrasion-resistant but am afraid that 10 or 12 lb test would be too springy and hard to manage (even though I'm not casting, mostly dragging). What is the "best" line for tube dragging for smallies? Should I try a high end fluoro like Tatsu? Should I choose a better knot for braid to fluoro? Been using the Alberto knot but am having breakoffs. It's frustrating since I've lost a few good smallies so far and it's only May..

I don't do much punching of mats here in Michigan therefore don't own a punching-specific setup but, if I fished in Florida, CA or anywhere there's big bass and heavy grass, I would probably start with Falcon's 'Bobby Barrack' Frog rod. My personal feeling is to first use/try gear recommended by guys who are 'experts' at the technique (i.e. Aaron Martens and dropshotting). That rod is on sale at TW which should be just under your budget and I'm sure you'd love using it. I know it's designed for frog fishing but, if you've ever seen his youtube videos, the guy knows how to pull big bass out of the heavy stuff!

^^ This. You answered your own question, get the Avid.

OFG, I have this rod and it shines for what I use it for. I use it with 4 and mainly 6lb test line for float fishing and live bait pitching. It is definitely a moderate action, bordering on slow action for a St. Croix blank. It can definitely handle any size fish out of a creek/stream depending on the cover and your skill. I smallie fish GL open water (some weeds) and never feel underpowered. But, I think you should go with St Croix's 7'MLF or 7'6" MLXF Avid based on what has already been said. On small streams with close quarters you're better off with a shorter rod. And the Mod action isn't the best choice for chucking hardware up to 3/8th oz., IMO.

GT, If you would be more specific, you'd get more appropriate responses. What is a "big bass" in your "area"? 2 lbs, 4lbs, 6 lbs? Have you ever dropshotted before? Am guessing no otherwise no need to ask your question. As others have mentioned, you can drop shot with just about any setup and any lb. test line. Should you or can you use this setup? What exactly are you wanting to know? I doubt anyone bass fishing would use a UL rod to dropshot unless it's for panfish with 2lb. line. There is no reason to use a UL rod for bass unless there's absolutely no cover to wrap you up, the bass don't exceed 10"-12", or you want to challenge your fish-fighting skills. If you're fishing water that has anything over 4 lbs. in it then you're asking for trouble. If you want to use 6 lb. line (which I do and most others do) then get a ML or L action rod, at least.

I bought this rod last Spring and dropshotted with it on St Clair for smallies (<15 ft deep). Phenomenal rod for DS at that price and wanted to keep it a secret, lol. Hook up with some 10 lb. braid and 6 lb. fluoro leader and have a ball.

Yeah, me either J. Was just suggesting the OP start by practicing on educating his thumb and the roll cast and then move up to heavier tackle. It would have helped me avoid many snagged docks and clanging pontoon boats

I was lucky enough to have attended a sports show back in Seattle many years ago, and watched Stan Fagerstrom effortlessly toss jigs into a coffee can 30 feet away. I remember his rod was a Loomis CR721 (very limber tip) and the one thing he emphasized is to make sure you are in the right position before making a cast. He would simply flick his wrist and it was amazing to watch. I think most folks use the wrong action rod and line and try to go for distance. I fish mostly open water on Lake St. Clair and Lake Erie so that I rarely ever "target' cast, just bomb it as far as possible to cover water or dropshot and drag tubes for smallies. But I've always wanted to make the time to get very good at target casting and agree it takes LOTS of practice time but, I would suggest watching some of Stan's videos. The guy is a magician with a rod and reel.

I use a Falcon Cara Weightless Worm rod. It's 6'7" and XF action, MH power and the tip is perfect, to me. I think it's perfect if you're doing double duty but they also have a McClelland jerkbait rod, which may be better (I have no experience with that rod tho).

Own lots of brands but my favorites are - Reels: Shimano (casting), Daiwa (spinning) Rods: Falcon (casting), St. Croix (spinning) though may switch to *** Black Line: Sufix 832, Sunline Sniper Soft plastics: Jackall, GYCB Hard baits: Rapala

Bass Raider, Not sure what you're asking but I will tell you this about G. Loomis rods. I used to live in WA state and am old enough to have fished their factory rods from the 80's and 90's. The original G. Loomis MBR and SJR rods in both IMX and GLX with the Wiebe reel seats had no equal. And if Loomis were still using those reel seats, I dare say there are no better rods made than the MBR842, 843, 844, and SJR782 and 843 in GLX. Worth every penny.

In that price range, using braid, get the Falcon Amistad, Cara (have) or Lowrider 20 (don't have). Falcons have always been good to me and they will take care of you, besides being a US made product. I would also add the *** Black MH in that price range but I haven't personally fished that one. The others 13 rods I have - there's something about the Toray graphite that feels almost electric in my hands, very responsive.

One look at that photo of yours and the last thing that comes to mind is spinning gear. If that's the typical cover and lake you fish and typical size bass you catch (nice one BTW!) then I wouldn't be caught without a heavy action setup like a Falcon Amistad! JMO. I can send you a photo of St. Clair or Lake Erie and I guarantee you won't see anything like that cover, it's mostly all open water fishing, so most regulars use M and ML spinning rods.

I tend to agree with this. I live in Michigan and therefore mostly chase smallies, and mostly with spinning tackle because of the typical windy conditions on the Great Lakes and, my relatively uneducated casting thumb, lol. And I lean towards the lighter side of all my gear since we don't have thick vegetation (until late Summer) or flooded timber up here, at least on Lake St. Clair and Erie. And I am gradually switching to 832 for all my setups so going down in rod power work fine, for me. That said, I've used spinning rods that were no good for dropshotting and casting rods that were great for dropshotting. Why buy a spinning outfit since nowadays you can get ML and M casting rods that would work great for what you need, especially since you tend to fish relatively thick cover? The main reasons that I see for using spinning gear for bass are: lightweight lures in windy conditions, ultra clear water that calls for 6 and 8 lb. fluorocarbon line, or you find a rod action that works beautifully but isn't available in a casting version. Both St. Croix and Loomis (as examples only) make both spin and casting rods with the same blanks. A MLXF or MXF blank from either company would do great for what you mentioned and you can get their casting version. Not trying to sway you from spinning tackle since I fish it a lot but if it were me and I fished heavy cover most of the time, I wouldn't mess around with spinning gear. I don't frog or punch much here since I don't usually fish lakes that call for that. All this said, my advice would be to go to a big box store and have someone let you put that exact reel on a bunch of spinning rods and see what feels best to you in that price range. There are lots of good choices.

Depending on the jig weights, either the Falcon 5-1610MH or 6-1610H. You can find the Cara T7 version on sale many places or the Lowrider version is for sure under your budget. In fact, I would recommend spending an extra bit and get both those rods! The *** is a nice rod (blank) as well but I think the Falcons are great jig rods in that price range.

Thanks for the heads up! I recently bought 2 NIB Lexa 100HS reels for $85 off another online retailer so this is an even better deal. May have to spring for another