Seen a truck a couple weeks ago with two white lights under the rear of the cargo box pointed down towards the ground. Figured they must be for using at the boat ramp. Anyone else tried this?

 

It's really poorly lit at the local ramps around here. I always prefer to take my toon out in the evenings and come in after dark.

Yes had two mounted on the sides of my hitch for loading and unloading my duck boat. They worked great.

Thanks Buckmaxx, did you point them at the ground? Got any pics? Thanks again

No I pointed them back underneath the trailer parelel with the ground. Sorry I do not. one utility tractor light from an autoparts store will do it.

Get an submersible light just in case you have to back in too far on some of those tricky ramps.....

 

Jeff

If your ebrake is good enough back the trailer in, let it in reverse, pull the ebrake, shut the ignition off... you have lights.

I just installed a separate switch on my back-up lights so I can turn them on without being in reverse.

Thanks guys. That's a good ideal greyleg. I'm going to play around with the reverse lights and look at the light options at the auto parts store. Been cranking out the projects today. Hoping to have some time this coming week.

I put tractor flood lights on the trailer guide-ons and hooked them to the backup light circuit.

http://www.pickupspecialties.com/Hitches/Ball_Mount_Hitch_Light.html

What do you need help with? loading the boat back on the trailer or backing the trailer in? If you just need to load the boat, buy a $10 battery powered LED lantern and hang it on your winch when you back the trailer in. Aim for the light. A spotlight in the boat will also help, shine your trailer coming in and you will be golden. No need for any expensive lights or wiring jobs. 

"If your ebrake is good enough back the trailer in, let it in reverse, pull the ebrake, shut the ignition off." ????? ONLY ON A STICK SHIFT!!!

 

I don't believe I would head this advice, with an automatic. I have never, in over 40 years of putting boats in and out of the water had this happen, 

 

I will always put my vehicle in Park if it is an automatic with the E-brake on, engine off, and the transmission in reverse or first gear if it's a stick with the engine off E-brake on!! There is an old saying that goes like this,,,,one ounce of prevention is worth a ton of cure!!!!  Never question good enough.

If your ebrake is good enough back the trailer in, let it in reverse, pull the ebrake, shut the ignition off... you have lights.

 

 

yeah.......don't ever do this. it is an insurance claim waiting to happen.

hehe don't worry about me. I will just wire up the circuit for the lights. I've already re wired every major circuit on my old 89 K2500. Been planning on running rear/trailer lights ground back to the batt next and just gonna do both circuits at once.

K2500.

post up a pic of that beast!

I installed waterproof rope LEDs inside each frame rail of my trailer. I put a waterproof toggle switch on the tongue and tapped into the running lights for power. They really light up the ground when backing in and you can see the trailer underwater in the dark.

I used flood/driving lights mounted as close to the out side ends of the bumper as I could get to get the best coverage.  Lights close to the hitch didn't work for me.

 

Also, install a 12V DC auto relay controlled by the backup circuit and add a 14 awg direct power feed from the engine fuse block to the relay; the direct 12V feeds the add-on backup lights through the relay.  Otherwise, on my Dodge Ram, the factory backup circuit wasn't strong enough to power the trucks backup lights and the add-on lights.

I used flood/driving lights mounted as close to the out side ends of the bumper as I could get to get the best coverage.  Lights close to the hitch didn't work for me.

 

Also, install a 12V DC auto relay controlled by the backup circuit and add a 14 awg direct power feed from the engine fuse block to the relay; the direct 12V feeds the add-on backup lights through the relay.  Otherwise, on my Dodge Ram, the factory backup circuit wasn't strong enough to power the trucks backup lights and the add-on lights.

 

That is what I did to power the backup lights on my trailer.

I used flood/driving lights mounted as close to the out side ends of the bumper as I could get to get the best coverage.  Lights close to the hitch didn't work for me.

 

Also, install a 12V DC auto relay controlled by the backup circuit and add a 14 awg direct power feed from the engine fuse block to the relay; the direct 12V feeds the add-on backup lights through the relay.  Otherwise, on my Dodge Ram, the factory backup circuit wasn't strong enough to power the trucks backup lights and the add-on lights.

Good info, thanks alot. I'm with you all the way. The reverse light circuit is puny. I like 14 awg for any light and will use an inline fuse and a relay. Truck I saw had a light inside each end of the bumper pointed down to the ground. I think that will work best. Limit the light from interferring with night vision as I pull the boat on the trailer and be bright enough for loading the truck bed. I always end up with a bunch of stuff. Batteries to charge, cooler, fishing poles, TM, tackle bag and towel duffle bag and more LOL. We like to fish, swim, BBQ and festivities on the boat and always come off the lake after dark. Really getting back into the happy boating summer after missing last season. Pontoons are great. I still want a bass boat though. One is coming for sure.