Hey guys, I have an abu garcia silver max. Due to the low quality of this reel, I have to do a thorough cleaning of it every 3 trips to keep it working good. However, every time I put the handle on the reel, I have a problem. Whenever I tighten down the nut that holds on the handle, I have to use my finger because if i get it too tight the handle gets crooked. It doesn't form a right angle with the bolt it attaches to. So how do I tighten down the nut so that it doesn't come loose when I fish, but doesn't make the handle seat crookedly on the reel?

 

Thanks

Brian

Don't you have a "tool" that came with the reel to do this? I also find it strange that you have to take apart the handle side every three trips.

 

 

Don't you have a "tool" that came with the reel to do this? I also find it strange that you have to take apart the handle side every three trips.

No tool came with the reel. I just use a 10mm hex head screwdriver. I find it weird too, but if I don't I get backlashes like crazy. My brother has the Revo Sx and it is virtually maintance free with better performance. I wish I had saved up and bought something better.

Now that you talk about backlashing, what exactly are you cleaning when you clean the reel (to solve the backlashing problem)?

Now that you talk about backlashing, what exactly are you cleaning when you clean the reel (to solve the backlashing problem)?

Not sure why it helps but I just wipe off any visible grime or dirt, oil the bearings and lube the gears.

You probably over tightened the nut (73), deforming the keyed notch in the crankshaft (56).  The only solution is to replace part 56.  I see this a lot on many DIY reels.  Also makes it next to impossible to the drive gear and drag stack (57-62) with out grinding the deformed flange created on the crank shaft.

 

As far as the rest of the issues, a proper cleaning should last you a season or more, no matter the cost of the reel.

I second the assertion that you are over lubing. NEVER open a reel without the schematic in front of you and take care not to cross thread, over tighten and strip the heads of fasteners.

Thanks for the answers guys. Never knew I could over-lube a reel. Washer 71 is present, i probably cross threaded washer 73 the first time I cleaned it, because I'm always careful now. I dont plan on replacing #56, the reel still works it just doesnt look right.

 

Sounds to me like you are doing too much maintenance on the reel. Each time you add oil, it actually slows the spool down. It does not allow the bearings to roll smoothly because they have to fight through the oil to move. Once the excess oil has been spun out of the bearing, (probably still too much in there still) the spool will start to flow easier and without a well trained thumb, backlash will occur at the beginning of the cast. I would try to actually flush the bearings, clean the access lube out of the reel. Then add 1 drop of oil to the bearing, lube only the main gear 3/4 of the way around. For the handle not being on straight it sounds like you are missing a washer that would go on before the handle. Next time you take it apart, compare the parts that you have to a schematic of the reel. Part #71 in the schematic below is the washer I am referring to.

 

 

After done with proper maintenance, look at this video for proper setup of baitcaster.

 

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/how-to-cast-baitcast.html

How should I flush out the bearings? Thanks.

 

Brian

It doesn't make sense that you would need to clean the reel after every 3 outings - and if backlashing is the problem, cleaning/relubing the gears have nothing to do with it.  Only the spool bearings and the brake drum/centrifugal brake blocks, plus the copper plate under the cast control knob control spool function and castability.  And they usually only need servicing every couple of months to maintain their function.  Clean the drum which the brake blocks rub against with a solvent and lightly oil it with a Q-tip.  A drop of oil in each spool bearing.  Check the copper plate under the cast control knob and flip it over if it has been significantly dented by the spool axle.  None of that requires removing the reel handle or the side cover.  The hex nut that secures the handle can be over-tightened, which can distort the nut, strip its threads, and cause big problems.  They are usually brass, which is fairly soft.  You don't need to wrench it down like a lug nut on an automobile!  Just get it on straight, mildly tighten it and its keeper cover will prevent it from backing off.

 

If your reel is malfunctioning so regularly, I would also consider what reel oil you are using to lube the bearings.  Thick viscosity oils like Abu reel oil sold at Walmart last longer but make the reel perform slower.  Low viscosity lubes make the reel work faster but they also get slung out of bearings faster and need to be replenished more often.  Yellow Rocket Fuel, Ardent Bearing Oil, or even Quantum Hot Sauce (ugh, I hate its red dye!) are good medium viscosity choices.

You probably over tightened the nut (73), deforming the keyed notch in the crankshaft (56).  The only solution is to replace part 56.  I see this a lot on many DIY reels.  Also makes it next to impossible to the drive gear and drag stack (57-62) with out grinding the deformed flange created on the crank shaft.

 

As far as the rest of the issues, a proper cleaning should last you a season or more, no matter the cost of the reel.

X3 Only I would replace #73 with the crank shaft #56....

 

Good Luck & Tight Lines! 

You're probably right David - I bet the threads are cooked.