I have been fishing with 2 spinning rods and I am going to buy a new baitcasting rod that is stronger. I look at all the rods available labeled as jig rods, senko rods, crankbait rods, frog rods, etc. Then I look at the specifications for the rods and they are basically the exact same with maybe a difference in recommended line strength. Yet, people have 20 different rods for all these different things. I was on a website and looking at two rods. One labeled as a frog rod and the other a jig rod. They had the same specifications but in there descriptions they claimed to be made solely for frogs and jigs. So I guess what I am asking is what is the real difference between all the different rods (i.e. crainkbait rods, worm rods, jig rods)? And how important are the differences? Do they make subtle differences in the actions of your lure or make major differences?

 

There's more to this than on post can cover. There's a good article on the forum here: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/rod-actions-power.html. For now ignore technique specific labels and work toward building an arsenal including a Med power fast action spinning rod which it looks like you have, for jigs & plastics <1/2oz. Next, a casting rod in Med/Hvy power and fast action for the same baits >1/2. Third, a MH/moderate action for crankbaits and other treble hook lures. 6'6 - 7' will work for any of them. For best casting the lure weight should fall well within the lure weight range on the rod. As you get more experience with rods and develop preferences of your own you can post technique specific questions for suggestions, and you'll get LOTS.

Most technique specific rods can be interchanged with each other. A frog rod can be used as a jig rod, most worm rods are 7'1 MH Fast but they can also be used for pitching into sparse cover with jigs and can also be used for spinnerbaits. Crankbait rods on the other hand have a moderate tip so the rod bends a lot further down almost acting like a cushion so you don't rip out big treble hooks that crankbaits have. When it comes to swimjigs I personally like an extra fast tip so I can rip jigs through weeds a lot easier.

When you're talking technique specific rods, you're talking rods that are designed for a certain bait or presentation.  The type of bait and often the type of cover that bait is most often used in, are the major concerns of the rod maker.  This doesn't mean that the rod can't be used for other presentations, it's just designed to be most efficient for one.  Lure weight or action can eliminate the use of say a cranking stick for use when frogging.

When you see rods that have the same specifications from the same manufacturer, but are labeled for different techniques, the actions and power ratings may be the same, but the materials can be vastly different and something as simple as the length/placement of the handle can make the difference in determining the technique it's designated for.

As DVT mentioned, a diverse arsenal is desireable in this sport.  How diverse your approach and skill determines how diverse you'll want that arsenal to be. 

Marketing............Rod companies know they have a captive audience. 

Marketing............Rod companies know they have a captive audience. 

the simple truth!!!

With all due respect to my friend SirSnook it ain't quite that simple.    Power and action make a difference. My percentage of bites to fish in the boat are much higher on crankbaits once I decided to go to a moderate action rod designed for the purpose. 

 

Many companies label rods for specific techniques. Some of this is just marketing, but using the proper power and action for the job at hand will make you more effective. A MedFast or XFast spinning rod, a MedHeavy or HeavyFast or XF, and a M or MH Moderate action rod for treble hooked baits will cover most of your bases. Some will tell you  that one broomstick will work for all things. Unless you are very limited in the water you fish and the techniques you use this will limit your success. 

 

Having the right setup will also increase your enjoyment in my experience, and that is what it is all about IMO. Good luck.

There's more to this than on post can cover. There's a good article on the forum here: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/rod-actions-power.html. For now ignore technique specific labels and work toward building an arsenal including a Med power fast action spinning rod which it looks like you have, for jigs & plastics <1/2oz. Next, a casting rod in Med/Hvy power and fast action for the same baits >1/2. Third, a MH/moderate action for crankbaits and other treble hook lures. 6'6 - 7' will work for any of them. For best casting the lure weight should fall well within the lure weight range on the rod. As you get more experience with rods and develop preferences of your own you can post technique specific questions for suggestions, and you'll get LOTS.

Yea I have a light power and extra fast action G loomis. That is 2-6 pund line. I also have a Shimano thats medium power but I am not sure about the action. That has 6-15 pound line. So I was planning on getting a medium to heavy baitcaster for heavier lures and farther casting and people are saying get the moderate action rod for crankbaits. So with time I will get both.

Marketing............Rod companies know they have a captive audience. 

yep.

With all due respect to my friend SirSnook it ain't quite that simple.    Power and action make a difference. My percentage of bites to fish in the boat are much higher on crankbaits once I decided to go to a moderate action rod designed for the purpose. 

 

Many companies label rods for specific techniques. Some of this is just marketing, but using the proper power and action for the job at hand will make you more effective. A MedFast or XFast spinning rod, a MedHeavy or HeavyFast or XF, and a M or MH Moderate action rod for treble hooked baits will cover most of your bases. Some will tell you  that one broomstick will work for all things. Unless you are very limited in the water you fish and the techniques you use this will limit your success. 

 

Having the right setup will also increase your enjoyment in my experience, and that is what it is all about IMO. Good luck.

You can take this to the bank. Fishing for Bliegill Crappie Perch Bass Walleye Pike Muskie Catfish, owning Moderate Fast and Extra Fast in UL, L, M, MH, and H all have benafitts when you understand what each does in the combination Weight and Action you use them for!! It does make a difference!! Couple the wrong action and weight and you will boat less takers!!!   

take a 6'6" medium moderate rod and punch weeds then take a 7"11 extra heavy xtra fast and punch and come back to me. huge difference between my 7 m and 7 mh when pulling bass out of timber...HUGE difference.

To me it seems like some people are missing his point a bit. He's saying why would a Cumara rod that has the specs of 6'10 med/hvy/fast be marketed as a spinnerbait rod but then you have a Cumara 6'8 med/hvy/fast marketed as a worm and jig rod. They both have the same max line rating,amount of guides, and handle length. Only difference being lure rating on the worm/jig rod is 1/4-3/4 verses 3/8-1/2 on the spinnerbait rod. So he's saying why can't you toss a 3/8 jig on both rods since they are made on the same blank. Only difference being 2" in length. This is what I've gathered from his post anyhow. Not why can't you use a 7' med to throw a frog with.

To the OP like people have all ready said a lot of it is marketing hype but not all of it either. You tell someone the rod is designed for senkos and they think they need that rod for soft plastics. The other thing that has been mentioned is you basically need 3-4 types of rods but then you can have multiples of a rod with the same specs. I think that might be kind of what you're asking too.

 

Here is what my basic rods serve a purpose for when I'm fishing.

I have a heavy rod for frogs and heavier jigs or punching heavy cover. I use it for heavier C-rigs too. Here you will see many in different lengths. I have a med/hvy and that works for jigs up to 1/2oz and any weighted soft plastics or a lighter C-rig. I also throw spinnerbaits and buzzbaits with it. I have a med/mod for treble hook lures. Sometimes I use a med/hvy though for square bills. Finally I have a med spinning rod. shakey head,drop shot,1/8oz tubes or weightless soft plastics.  With that being said though I then own more then one of each of these rods. This allows me to have multiple things rigged up. A frog on my 7'3 heavy rod and then a 3/4oz Carolina rig on my other 7'6 heavy rod. That also doubles for flipping heavy cover. I'll get another one in the 7'6-8' heavy range for throwing a 1oz + tungsten weight with 5/0 flipping hook so I don't have to take my c-rig off when I come to some good cover.     Hopefully this might help clear a few things up for you.

To the OP like people have all ready said a lot of it is marketing hype but not all of it either. You tell someone the rod is designed for senkos and they think they need that rod for soft plastics. The other thing that has been mentioned is you basically need 3-4 types of rods but then you can have multiples of a rod with the same specs. I think that might be kind of what you're asking too.

 

Here is what my basic rods serve a purpose for when I'm fishing.

I have a heavy rod for frogs and heavier jigs or punching heavy cover. I use it for heavier C-rigs too. Here you will see many in different lengths. I have a med/hvy and that works for jigs up to 1/2oz and any weighted soft plastics or a lighter C-rig. I also throw spinnerbaits and buzzbaits with it. I have a med/mod for treble hook lures. Sometimes I use a med/hvy though for square bills. Finally I have a med spinning rod. shakey head,drop shot,1/8oz tubes or weightless soft plastics.  With that being said though I then own more then one of each of these rods. This allows me to have multiple things rigged up. A frog on my 7'3 heavy rod and then a 3/4oz Carolina rig on my other 7'6 heavy rod. That also doubles for flipping heavy cover. I'll get another one in the 7'6-8' heavy range for throwing a 1oz + tungsten weight with 5/0 flipping hook so I don't have to take my c-rig off when I come to some good cover.     Hopefully this might help clear a few things up for you.

Yeah thanks. You seemed to get what I was asking more. You have the combination I am aiming for, except I only have the medium spinning rod. I am gonna get a heavier baitcaster around before next spring and then probably a crankbait rod before summer. 

Good plan, as you learn be aware of lure weight ratings and ignore line weight. Line weight means next to nothing on light fresh water tackle.

Yeah thanks. You seemed to get what I was asking more. You have the combination I am aiming for, except I only have the medium spinning rod. I am gonna get a heavier baitcaster around before next spring and then probably a crankbait rod before summer.

No problem, glad to of helped out. A med/hvy in the 7-7'2 range is going to be your best "all around" rod. You can cover all the basic techniques you'll need. As for reels a 6:3:1-6:4:1 ratio will work well also.

Good plan, as you learn be aware of lure weight ratings and ignore line weight. Line weight means next to nothing on light fresh water tackle.

Would a rod not cast as well if I were to use a lighter lure than recommended?

Would a rod not cast as well if I were to use a lighter lure than recommended?

Yeah if it's too light it won't load up the rod enough to get optimum distance.