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Jtd1216

Rod/reel/lline Setups For Multiple Techniques

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First time posting here! Finally joined after discovering this forum a month or so ago. Great stuff so far.

I'm trying to figure out what rod/reel/line setups I need for certain lures/techniques. There are a ton of articles out there that lay it all out, but I feel like there's conflicting info between them all. Hoping to get some help from you guys in selecting multiple setups for bass. I was always a one rod/reel spinning (and one lure pretty much) setup guy until I've been learning more about baitcasting and different rod types, and also exploring new lures. It's all great learning about it all, but now I'm more confused than ever. Here's what I usually fish in order of frequency (most frequent first):

1) 5-6" Senkos Texas rigged, fishing around cover and under tree line in 3-6' of water

2) Spinnerbaits, some open water and around cover 4-10' of water

3) Jig/pig, heavy cover, 4-10'

4) Frogs, lily pads, brush cover

5) Crankbaits, new to these not sure where I'll be fishing them, 2-10' of water

Now, here are the rod/reel setups I have. I would like to keep a max of 4 rods on the boat, so I will have to do some overlap on above. I may have a budget for one more rod/reel setup.

1) Med-light spinning setup, 6', med-light, mod fast rod, 8lb line

2) 6.4:1 baitcast, 6', med, fast, 12lb line

3) 6.4:1 baitcast, 6'6" med-heavy, fast, no line yet

Can I get away with my above setups with the fishing techniques I listed? If so, which setup for which techniques? As I mentioned, I do have in the budget for another rod and reel (possibly a 7' heavy rod setup?) if needed.

Thank you so much in advance!

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Individual preference.

 

I could tell you how I would set up each of the above for different techniques but depending on the time of year, water clarity, water color and wind every time I would go out I would change them around.

 

12-pound test for baitcasters is usually the lowest test to use although I know guys who go down to 6-pounds and use a light rod.

 

Some guys swear you use mono for treble hook baits and flouro for all other baits. Some pros do this and other pros use flouro on all presentations. Go figure?

 

I throw Senkos on both baitcasters and spinning rigs.  Spinnerbaits on baitcasters but small 1/4 ounce spinnerbaits on spinning gear.

 

Jigs and frogs using braid on baitcasters. I also will go with a strong flouro like 17-pounds and up for jigs and frogs when braid gets on my nerves.

 

Crankbaits, fish them all over the place and at every depth. Check their depth and the water depth and decide what part of the water column you want to test.

 

I have thrown deep diving cranks in 6 feet of water to have them bounce off the bottom. Wake baits, shad raps, Chatterbaits, etc. all hit different water columns and you have to find what depth the bass are hitting your lures.  This is called "hunting' to normal people but to us we are just trying to outsmart those little green monsters.

 

You need a number of crankbaits that go different depths and in different colors. Throw them on a baitcaster using a medium or medium heavy graphite rod designed for crankbaits. The longer the rod the more casting distance you will enjoy.  Just pick out any "crankbait specific" rod and go with it. BPS's cranking stick is outstanding and it is priced lower than other brands.

 

If you are throwing a deep diving crank you will need a heavy rod to get a long cast and have the hook setting power to properly set the hook. You can also use this rod for your Carolina rig presentation and in heavy grass and pads to pull the bass out of the foliage.

 

Use a 5:1 reel for crankbaits or you can go with a 6:1 or 7:1 depending on how much reeling you want to do. Also, don't just throw out the crankbait and reel it back to you. Hit anything in the water you can; reel-stop-reel; reel-bounce rod tip up and down-reel; or do anything you want with the crank bait.

 

So go to the tackle store and have some fun looking at all of the different "crankbait specific" rods and select the one you like best. Let us know what you purchase.

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P.S. How about going to the Introductions section and introduce yourself and add your geographical location to your avatar so we can give you better input based on where you fish and the time of year.

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Welcome to the forums. Like he said you don't need a thing but if you're planning on fishing heavy thick cover you'll probably want to get a heavier power baitcaster at some point. The medium heavy is perfect for most of the stuff you listed. Cranks on the medium rod, senkos on the medium light, frogs and jig and worm through thick cover on a heavy pole at some point. I have one medium heavy at the moment that I use for spinnerbaits, lipless cranks, and square bills. I'm going to get another medium heavy next year in a mf that ill use for shallow/medium heavuer crankbaits and topwater lures.

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That is one of those questions that will yield different opinions from almost everyone.

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medium heavy is fine...probably should be a 7 foot not 6'6" but not a big deal.

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Thanks for the help guys--great info! After double checking, that spinning setup is actually a 5'6" medium power, fast action. I have always had a problem setting the hook the Texas rig Senkos (6" YUM dinger). I wonder if it's because there's not enough power (feels lighter than medium power) for a single hook lure.

I'm thinking I want (you're right, not need) a 7'0" casting setup for pulling fish out of heavy cover with a jig or frog. This is a whole new world for me, as I've always fished really light tackle with losing a fish (broken line) or not setting the hook effectively as my main issues. It seems so me that I can pretty much fish anything off the 6'6" MH rod with success, as it's middle of the road based on people's opinion. Is that too much rod for fishing the plastics I use? I'd also like to eliminate excess time tying off different lures by having multiple rod set ups.

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1) 5-6" Senkos Texas rigged, fishing around cover and under tree line in 3-6' of water 2

2) Spinnerbaits, some open water and around cover 4-10' of water 2

3) Jig/pig, heavy cover, 4-10' 3

4) Frogs, lily pads, brush cover 3

5) Crankbaits, new to these not sure where I'll be fishing them, 2-10' of water 1

1) Med-light spinning setup, 6', med-light, mod fast rod, 8lb line

2) 6.4:1 baitcast, 6', med, fast, 12lb line

3) 6.4:1 baitcast, 6'6" med-heavy, fast, no line yet (I would put on like 30-65 lb braid on here)

 

 

 

 

I like a little more backbone for a senko rod if you are TX rigging it. If you are wacky rigging it you could use your spinning outfit. You could also throw the crankbaits on the M baitcasting set up as well. Whatever you prefer.

 

It all depends on how picky you want to get. You can definitely get by just fine with what you have if you are fishing just for recreation. The only reason to get the latest and greatest is if  1. You need it or 2. You can afford it.

 

If you want to save time on swtiching lures, just use some snaps to make changing lures out quicker.

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You can use a 7 Mh rod, 6.2 - 7.1 reel and 15 lb flouro for d**n near anything

The big exceptions in my opinion are crank baits and frogs

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You really don't need anything, your current setups can cover all of the above.  However, if you want to increase your arsenal because "you want to" then...my next rod would be a Heavy rod in the 7'2-7'6 length for frogging/heavy jigs/pitching.  After that I would probably buy a new spinning setup.  Anything 6'6" and 7' M/F or XF (shakey head/jerkbaits).   Then to round out your arsenal in the near future is to buy another MH/F rod as your spinnerbait rod/bladed baits.

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Thanks for the help guys--great info! After double checking, that spinning setup is actually a 5'6" medium power, fast action. I have always had a problem setting the hook the Texas rig Senkos (6" YUM dinger). I wonder if it's because there's not enough power (feels lighter than medium power) for a single hook lure.

I'm thinking I want (you're right, not need) a 7'0" casting setup for pulling fish out of heavy cover with a jig or frog. This is a whole new world for me, as I've always fished really light tackle with losing a fish (broken line) or not setting the hook effectively as my main issues. It seems so me that I can pretty much fish anything off the 6'6" MH rod with success, as it's middle of the road based on people's opinion. Is that too much rod for fishing the plastics I use? I'd also like to eliminate excess time tying off different lures by having multiple rod set ups.

Try waiting an extra second or two before setting the hook. The bass will pick up the line you'll see it. You can reel in slack and wait til the bass pulls you then set the hook.

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You can use a 7 Mh rod, 6.2 - 7.1 reel and 15 lb flouro for d**n near anything

The big exceptions in my opinion are crank baits and frogs

ColdSVT, your exceptions would take which type if rod then? If my learning is correct, a medium, mf rod for cranking and then heavy fast for frogs?

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I guess that leads me into my next thing. I've always used mono line, never have experienced fluoro or braided. Is mono an acceptable all around line or should I be using fluoro or braid for certain applications on my current setups?

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After double checking, that spinning setup is actually a 5'6" medium power, fast action. I have always had a problem setting the hook the Texas rig Senkos (6" YUM dinger). I wonder if it's because there's not enough power (feels lighter than medium power) for a single hook lure.

 

I don't know what your hookset is like, but on this rod you need one like my Dad used 50 years ago with glass rods.  You better not be behind him too close or you would get smacked.  :teeth:  He'd lean forward taking all the slack out then swing and rear back hard enough to demolish a concrete wall.  :hahaha-024:

 

That rod is one place where 10 lb. braid would be an advantage for that type of lure.  Lack of stretch would help hook the fish better.

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I imagine ColdSVT's reservations on those 2 baits is because most people use a heavy braid for frogs.  A MH rod may be too powerful for crankbaits....depending on rod, action and depth lure is running.  The smaller hooks are easier to tear out, and the rod should have enough give to keep them pinned.

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I guess that leads me into my next thing. I've always used mono line, never have experienced fluoro or braided. Is mono an acceptable all around line or should I be using fluoro or braid for certain applications on my current setups?

 

Mono is totally fine. A lot of guys will diss on it b/c they think floro is some super invis no stretch master line and mono is stretchier than laffy taffy, but mono will treat you very well as an inexpensive all around line. I just wouldn't use it for fishing heavy slop/cover with your jigs and frogs. Probably want to go braid with that route.

 

If you have a bass pro near you, you can stock up on some Stren mono (660 yd spools) for 5 bucks. This will last you a long time.

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ColdSVT, your exceptions would take which type if rod then? If my learning is correct, a medium, mf rod for cranking and then heavy fast for frogs?

Pretty much!

A slower reel for cranks and 7.1 or so for frogs. As far as line i go with 12# for crankin and 30 to 50# braid for frogs

Thats just me though. I do prefer a medium action for my cranks and a heavy/fast for frogs

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Thanks for the tips guys. Super helpful!! So if I were to pick up one more setup, might I go for a 7' heavy with a 7:1 reel and braided for frogs and jigs?

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Just one caveat on "heavy" rods. Not all are created equal, one company's mh might be the equivalent of another company's heavy. Also some heavy rods are absolute broom sticks. The heaviest rods I own are a st croix mh, and abu garcia mh, both are known for having a little more power than other rods. I use both of them for frogs and can't think of many times when I feel like I need more.

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Just one caveat on "heavy" rods. Not all are created equal, one company's mh might be the equivalent of another company's heavy. Also some heavy rods are absolute broom sticks. The heaviest rods I own are a st croix mh, and abu garcia mh, both are known for having a little more power than other rods. I use both of them for frogs and can't think of many times when I feel like I need more.

I was going to say the exact same thing but about action as well. Which is why rod selection is so difficult when you are new to the sport. Until you understand why a certain technique requires a certain power & action it takes a lot of trial and error and handling them in the stores. Most rods sold are advertised as fast action but so many of them more moderate, and even more so recently a lot of the "Fast" rods are coming out as extra fast/xxf. I wish there was a standard or that each rod had a bend chart you could look at for online purchases.

 

I will also go on to say that you are probably right about your senko hook sets not landing, you need some backbone to get those T-rig and jig bites in the boat. Also, dont set the hook too early but that was already mentioned.

 

rod-action-chart.png

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Thank you all for the great wisdom. I hope to apply it this upcoming season. As far as action goes, that spinning setup seems like it's a slow action, where it bends way down low.

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Thank you all for the great wisdom. I hope to apply it this upcoming season. As far as action goes, that spinning setup seems like it's a slow action, where it bends way down low.

At some point you may want to experiment with other actions to see what works best for you. I use a medium fast action for weightless senko and other general purpose fishing on my spinning rig. You may play around and decide you like a moderate or moderate fast. It's all about what works best and feels best to you for your type of fishing.

 

The faster the action generally the more hook setting power you'll have but also the more likely you'll pull the hook out of a bass's mouth. For soft plastics texas rigged you usually want to go for a little bit more of a faster action so you can drive the hook through the plastic into the bass's mouth. For action lures like spinnerbaits or crankbaits where the hooks are exposed a slower action such as moderate or moderate fast is usually more desirable because you don't have to worry so much about driving the hook and it is usually more comfortable fishing those techniques because you don't feel as much resistance on the rod when cranking the lures all day long.

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