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Matt McMillen

Best Battery/system For Fishfinder

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Hey guys, just ordered a new has 9 and his 7. I want to run direct power to a toggle switch and need to know what battery i should get for them! thanks!

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Power should come from your starting battery which should be a marine starting battery or a dual purpose battery. 

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Not sure I understand the toggle switch part. 

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hey guys thanks for the response. By toggle switch, i meant that i want to be able to control my lowrance units by flipping a switch on and off instead of them turning on as soon as i start up the boat!

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You can have a master power switch where ever, but you'll still have to hit the power switch on the unit itself.  I don't think there's any work around for this.  You can turn them on and off independently of the your boat, so I'm not sure of the point.  Most boats (both mine included) have a master accessory power switch on the dash.  All that does is open the circuit when flipped on.  You still have to boot up the graphs using each power button.  You'll also have to click through all the legal disclaimers....

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yeah i understand that..thought turning on the fish finder was common knowledge and what not. that wasn't really my question haha. I meant a toggle switch that was separate from the accessory switch off the panel so the fish finders aren't wired into the harness but directly to the battery. All navigation systems in cars or boats have legal disclaimers to click through when they power up....

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yeah i understand that..thought turning on the fish finder was common knowledge and what not. that wasn't really my question haha. I meant a toggle switch that was separate from the accessory switch off the panel so the fish finders aren't wired into the harness but directly to the battery. All navigation systems in cars or boats have legal disclaimers to click through when they power up....

That is how mine is wired.  14g wire directly from the battery to single pole throw switch then to a blue seas dual bus where my 2 HDS units and LSS2 is wired in. 

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That is how mine is wired.  14g wire directly from the battery to single pole throw switch then to a blue seas dual bus where my 2 HDS units and LSS2 is wired in. 

Do you like it that way and where is a good site to find the supplies? Thanks!

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I see no need for the switch if only the hds units are wired on this circuit. All you have to do is wire them in with the fuses in place. The toggle would serve no purpose since you have to power down the units to keep from corrupting data.

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I see no need for the switch if only the hds units are wired on this circuit. All you have to do is wire them in with the fuses in place. The toggle would serve no purpose since you have to power down the units to keep from corrupting data.

I completely agree.  The proposed switch would just be redundant since the head units have a PWR button (i.e, switch).  Just wire units direct to battery with fuse protection with either the supplied inline fuse or through a fuse block.

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I completely agree.  The proposed switch would just be redundant since the head units have a PWR button (i.e, switch).  Just wire units direct to battery with fuse protection with either the supplied inline fuse or through a fuse block.

Aren't the accessory switches on the dash wired into the harness and that circuit? I don't see how wiring direct power to simply control the lowrance units would be redundant? I feel like it'd actually be more simple than dealing with the current mess of a wiring system at the dash console! Just looking for all the advice possible!

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I completely agree.  The proposed switch would just be redundant since the head units have a PWR button (i.e, switch).  Just wire units direct to battery with fuse protection with either the supplied inline fuse or through a fuse block.

Also, the engine would be wired on the same circuit if it was connected at the accessory switch on the dash panel, and I want it completely seperate and direct to the battery!

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The outboard isn't on the same circuit as the accessories. It's just connected to the same power source.

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Also, the engine would be wired on the same circuit if it was connected at the accessory switch on the dash panel, and I want it completely seperate and direct to the battery!

The outboard would melt any standard accessories switch. Most boats are wired with the motor powered straight from the battery OR a dedicated battery cutoff

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The outboard would melt any standard accessories switch. Most boats are wired with the motor powered straight from the battery OR a dedicated battery cutoff

How would you advise, with safety in mind, that the lowrance systems/stereo/accessories be wired? Thanks

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The outboard would melt any standard accessories switch. Most boats are wired with the motor powered straight from the battery OR a dedicated battery cutoff

Assuming that it'll be wired to a 1150 cca agm battery

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How would you advise, with safety in mind, that the lowrance systems/stereo/accessories be wired? Thanks

Like in post #7 without the switch for your electronics.

The rest of the stuff on your boat's wiring harness.

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Aren't the accessory switches on the dash wired into the harness and that circuit? I don't see how wiring direct power to simply control the lowrance units would be redundant? I feel like it'd actually be more simple than dealing with the current mess of a wiring system at the dash console! Just looking for all the advice possible!

What you say directly above is not redundant, is the best way to wire them, and is what several of us already suggested. In your previous post, you mentioned wiring the units direct, BUT THROUGH AN ADDITIONAL TOGGLE SWITCH - the additional toggle switch is redundant and not needed.  The units have their own PWR buttons, so why add the extra switch in the circuit?

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What you say directly above is not redundant, is the best way to wire them, and is what several of us already suggested. In your previous post, you mentioned wiring the units direct, BUT THROUGH AN ADDITIONAL TOGGLE SWITCH - the additional toggle switch is redundant and not needed.  The units have their own PWR buttons, so why add the extra switch in the circuit?

All he needs is a single rocker switch that cuts power to all the accessories via a buss bar like already posted. I believe that's what he is referring to, but is overcomplicating it.

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All he needs is a single rocker switch that cuts power to all the accessories via a buss bar like already posted. I believe that's what he is referring to, but is overcomplicating it.

 

yeah its exactly what what youy suggested in the link but it is a switch instead of knob

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What you say directly above is not redundant, is the best way to wire them, and is what several of us already suggested. In your previous post, you mentioned wiring the units direct, BUT THROUGH AN ADDITIONAL TOGGLE SWITCH - the additional toggle switch is redundant and not needed.  The units have their own PWR buttons, so why add the extra switch in the circuit?

Man, obviously i don't know or i wouldn't be asking or suggesting ideas! haha. Starting to make sense to me now though

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All he needs is a single rocker switch that cuts power to all the accessories via a buss bar like already posted. I believe that's what he is referring to, but is overcomplicating it.

what is the purpose of the buss bar? circuit protection?

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what is the purpose of the buss bar? circuit protection?

A buss bar is a place to make the connections for the unit power cords. It is like a fuse panel without the fuses.

You put one end of the power circuit at the battery with a circuit breaker on the positive wire and on the other end you put the buss bar. Then you connect the electronics' power cords to that bar with a fuse on each power cord in a recommended size by the mfg. 

The best fuses for each power cord to use in that environment are the spade type.

I use this fuse holder on each power cord:

http://www.radioshack.com/30a-12-24vdc-mini-blade-in-line-fuse-holder/2700015.html#start=9

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A buss bar is a place to make the connections for the unit power cords. It is like a fuse panel without the fuses.

You put one end of the power circuit at the battery with a circuit breaker on the positive wire and on the other end you put the buss bar. Then you connect the electronics' power cords to that bar with a fuse on each power cord in a recommended size by the mfg. 

The best fuses for each power cord to use in that environment are the spade type.

I use this fuse holder on each power cord:

http://www.radioshack.com/30a-12-24vdc-mini-blade-in-line-fuse-holder/2700015.html#start=9

thank you!

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