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Ratherbfishing

From "not great" to worse (outboard impeller problems)

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I have an Evinrude motor that USUALLY spins like a top.  Lately, however, it hasn't always wanted to start and sometimes sputters/coughs (every few hundred rpm)-especially on idle.  I had it out in the driveway with earmuffs on it and water running through it.  Water ran out out the "pee hole" and other orifices at a steady/consistent rate (I never ran the motor very high).  The motor coughed and quit so I took the opportunity to run and get fresh gas (guessing the problem might be bad gas).  I came back, hooked up, and started the motor again.  It ran but THIS time no water came out of the pee hole.  Thinking maybe the earmuffs weren't secure enough (there is always some water that leaks), I immediately shut it off and put the motor in a barrel (where a water supply was assured) and STILL no circulation.  It seems rather odd to me the timing of the impeller quitting.  I don't believe in coincidences.  A couple of questions:  1) Are earmuffs not sufficient for providing water to the engine and 2) Is there any way to diagnose an impeller problem without tearing down the engine/lower unit?

Thanks for any input you can provide!

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Did you first run something up the weep hole to see that it wasn't clogged?  How long has it been since the impeller was changed?

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55 minutes ago, J Francho said:




Did you first run something up the weep hole to see that it wasn't clogged?  How long has it been since the impeller was changed?






Have not ran anything in the weep hole yet.  I will try that. The impellor has not been changed since I've owned the motor (6 years).  Can't say prior to that.  I read (this morning) that some manufacturers recommend changing the impeller out every year but that seems rather excessive for us "mechanically challenged" folks- especially since I  put fewer than 30 or 40 hours of use on the motor each year.  Last year I used the motor, I think, three times.


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I change the impeller every other year.  It's probably shot.  I had a local marine repair shop do mine last year, I think it was around $80 all said and done.

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Muffs supply efficient water for the motor to run out of water but don't EVER rev the engine on muffs. It doesn't supply enough to cool at higher than idle RPMs. If you're impeller hasn't been replaced in 6 years then your water pump probably hasn't been replaced since then either. They should be done in pairs. Replace both the impeller and pump every 2 years for piece of mind. If you can drop the LU yourself the pump/impeller/gasket may run you roughly $70 (ish) and is a very simple repair. Marina mechanic cost will be 200$+. 

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The impeller is the water pump.  Kit for the 150 Rude/Johnson is about $50.

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If your impeller has failed and come apart in pieces you might do well to remove the pisser tube fitting from the block after  new pump is in.That may allow any pieces to flush  out that would not go thru the tube.btdt

fwiw. mud dauber bees often clog pee tubes

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Yes, I too think the impeller IS the water pump.  I hear the tricky part in the job is getting the shifting connector rod off (and reconnecting it later).  Although it is killing me, me thinks this first time I'll let a professional do it.  Do you suppose he (or she) would let me watch?  I'd like to learn.

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1 hour ago, Ratherbfishing said:

Yes, I too think the impeller IS the water pump.  I hear the tricky part in the job is getting the shifting connector rod off (and reconnecting it later).  Although it is killing me, me thinks this first time I'll let a professional do it.  Do you suppose he (or she) would let me watch?  I'd like to learn.

There are a bunch of YouTube videos of guys showing you how to change water pumps. I did mine after watching some of the videos.

Here's one;

 

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 I always thought the housing that the impeller goes in is considered the pump and the impeller is the star that is bent to put in that.  Learn something new every day.  I can't imagine a mechanic not letting you watch. It might take an hour tops

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Technically, you are right, the impeller IS a part of the pump...but since you ruin the gasket taking the lower unit off, it makes most sense to get the kit, which replaces all the wearable parts in the water pump. SO, when we refer to "changing the impeller," we really mean rebuilding the water pump. 

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I always keep a kit handy, but normally just change the impeller.  If all goes well, and the unit has be serviced/changed at regular intervals like it should be, then most of the time, everything is reusable.   The impeller is only about half/one third the price of the whole pump but it kinda sucks to get it all apart and find the housing cracked/melted (been there, done that several times) or your seals/O-rings are junk, and all you have is the impeller.  So, I keep the whole thing handy, and if I only need the impeller, that's all I use and order another one, or other parts I might have used to keep the kit complete.

You also have to realize, I have 11 motors, so keeping that many serviced can get a bit on the expensive side, so I have to save when I can.  With just one, a $100 every two or three years ain't so bad.

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You guys have all been a great help!  Assuming I can find the proper kit (the motor isn't super old so this shouldn't be a problem), I think this one might be doable myself.  Worse case scenario:  If I get stuck, I guess I can still take it to the shop.  I'm sure this isn't the FIRST time that has happened.  I'll take lots of pics during the "tear down."

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I use this silicon grease on just about all gaskets ,bolts ,nuts ,linkage ect. A coating of the grease allows gaskets to be re used  many times. Great for thermostat housings too.10 years now and never any negative effects. Available at most auto stores.

per_22058.jpg

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5 hours ago, Catch 22 said:

I use this silicon grease on just about all gaskets ,bolts ,nuts ,linkage ect. A coating of the grease allows gaskets to be re used  many times. Great for thermostat housings too.10 years now and never any negative effects. Available at most auto stores.

per_22058.jpg

DO NOT USE this stuff inside the water pump itself, IE the rubber star thingy.  oil and water do not mix, everything else fine.  i recommend using dish soap for inside the pump and housing.  on another note when i first got my tracker 2005 use with a 50hp 2 stroke mercury . i ran that motor about 45 to 60 days without any water peeing out the hole (because it was clogged and it was my first boat) and my motor was fine, no damage, no overheating.  so there is that if you start freaking out.  

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The 22058 is silicon [no oil].As far as lubing the impeller,that is not necessary at all.

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