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Skip Gap Hook

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So I have been using a skip gap hook made by gamagatsu to texas rig my tubes and they work well when I'm working them through thick weeds.  Several times this season though, including last week, something big grabbed my tube, I set the hook, there was heavy weight for a second or two, and then nothing.  I would reel the setup in, and the tube is gone, and the skip gap hook is straightened out 90 degrees.  I was fishing in water that has tiger muskies and every time I set the hook it felt like a good fish.  Is it possible for a big bass to straighten out a hook?  Maybe I shouldn't set the hook so hard using these skip gap hooks?

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trust me , those hooks are flimsy junk , they might hold a bait on good by their design , but the hook is very weak and will straighten out without much pressure , i tried them long ago before i went with Owner hooks , if you want a good hook , try the Owner spring lock hooks . and for weighted tube hooks try the Owner weighted tube hook -

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I prefer a light wire hook for T-rig tubes, but I don't fish them with braid or a M/H rod either. I've never had one straighten out. I've landed 8-10lb. cats without incident.

I'll switch to a flipping hook when punching or flipping with braid. 

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I got a ton for almost nothing at walmart last year, used them to make jika rigs. Haven't had one bend or break yet, biggest on the rig is around 5 pounds. No problems.

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Ive used them many times, and still do.  With lighter wire hooks, a properly set drag will solve the problem. :)

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I really wonder what some of you guys do to straighten hooks out. I land 5lb + smallmouth just about every year on 1/16oz hair jigs with a size #2 light wire hook and not even a hint of a bend. The biggest problem I see is guys using the wrong tackle for the application, I see guys fishing shaky heads with small 5" worms on a 1/8oz head using a 7' MH rod with 30lb braid and a 12lb fluorocarbon leader and then complain when the hook bends out. Sorry for the rant but I'm guessing you are hooking musky and you are either using heavy fluorocarbon or braid and if that is the case, well you are using the wrong hook. The skip gap isn't a light wire hook, it is what is known as a standard or medium wire and you should be good with that up to about 12# line with a MH rod, anything over that can apply enough pressure to bend the hook. If you have to use a heavy braid or fluorocarbon or even mono in heavy cover, a heavy tube hook would serve you better like a Gamakatsu superline hook.

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I also have never had a problem with them. They are my go to fluke hook..Imho there is nothing better to use. Completely agree with smalljaw67. Rethink what you're useing if you're on the heavy side. 

 

 

Mike 

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The only time I have had a large hook bend on me was when a snapping turtle grabbed it.  

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I'm using 20 pound braided line on a medium action rod most of the time for this application.  Its definitely possible that a muskie grabbed it and straightened it out, as I did have a couple follows earlier on and the lake is stocked with them.  I might try a thicker wire style hook especially if the larger esox species is around.  Perhaps I'm just setting the hook too hard too or I need to loosen the drag a little bit.

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On 10/7/2016 at 6:35 PM, bigturtle said:

gamakatsu skipgap hooks are light wire, and fish over 3-4lb will have a chance of straightening them out

It's a good thing I live in the north! My hooks should only straighten out only 2 or 3 times a year. But seriously I have never had these hooks straighten out. I prefer light wire hooks also. 

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On 10/7/2016 at 6:18 PM, Big Bait Fishing said:

trust me , those hooks are flimsy junk , they might hold a bait on good by their design , but the hook is very weak and will straighten out without much pressure , i tried them long ago before i went with Owner hooks , if you want a good hook , try the Owner spring lock hooks . and for weighted tube hooks try the Owner weighted tube hook -

i was a proponent of the skip gap until i used the owner twistlock and i intend to never go back!  i've never had an issue with the skip gap, just had a better hook up ratio with the owner hooks.

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i'm wondering if there were defective hooks made in the skip jack hook and some were stiffer , the ones i had were VERY flexible , you could bend them out very easily .

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I use the 3/0 4/0 all season long and I've never had one get ruined. It's my preferred hook for most things. 

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I also used them almost exclusively before I found the Owner Twistlocks and Cutting Point straight shanks worm hooks.  I still like the Skip gaps because I some times like to swap a senko between t-rig and wacky while walking the bank and the twistlocks are not great as wacky hooks and tear up the worm more if you remove and reattach it a few times.  The skip gap you can just roll the worm 45d and get a good grab 2-3 times.  

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Loosen your drag a bit, problem solved

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I tried the skip gap and liked them for lizards and creatures. It was just a pain zigging worm through the bends and i often ripped it on softer plastics. What i found works better for me is to simply buy keeper springs that go on any hook. They are cheaper than dedicated spring hooks and take up less room in my hook box than keeping diffrent size specialty hooks when i can just use them with any of my regular stocked hooks. 

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On 10/7/2016 at 6:18 PM, Big Bait Fishing said:

trust me , those hooks are flimsy junk , they might hold a bait on good by their design , but the hook is very weak and will straighten out without much pressure , i tried them long ago before i went with Owner hooks , if you want a good hook , try the Owner spring lock hooks . and for weighted tube hooks try the Owner weighted tube hook -

rs0ZUXA966.jpg

rs2O1U0NEU.jpg

What size centerpin hooks work best with 3.5” tubes?

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