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rippin-lips

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I want to eliminate this ugly gap between the lock nut and foregrip. I'd like to have the foregrip be the lock nut like the XX series '2nd pic' or ditch it all together. I know it's quite the task since the rod needs to be stripped. Neutral balance is on the front foregrip and that makes it a bit tip heavy to me. I'd like it to be very close to the lock nut. Any idea on cost?

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The way I'd tackle that would be eliminate the foregrip all together.  I'd then trim the reel seat threads flush with the front of the locking nut.

If the existing winding check is too small to slide to the seat, I'd remove it too.  I'd then build an epoxy ramp to transition from blank to seat.

Now, the ugly area where I removed the cork and thread......I'd do some sort of decorative wrap to cover.

This would be the easiest way to keep from stripping the entire rod.

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5 hours ago, S Hovanec said:

The way I'd tackle that would be eliminate the foregrip all together.  I'd then trim the reel seat threads flush with the front of the locking nut.

If the existing winding check is too small to slide to the seat, I'd remove it too.  I'd then build an epoxy ramp to transition from blank to seat.

Now, the ugly area where I removed the cork and thread......I'd do some sort of decorative wrap to cover.

This would be the easiest way to keep from stripping the entire rod.

I concur. I'd approach it the same way. Cost wise , it wouldn't break the bank but shipping adds up and might be a deal breaker 

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For future builds consider the methods recommended for this rebuild, and also consider the Fuji sleeves that cover the lock nuts and threads. I think Alps has them also in similar designs.  You won't see the threads at all and will have a nice smooth surface there.

For most of the rods that bass fishermen use there is no need for a foregrip.  I built with foregrips for a long time until I asked myself what is there function, and found there wasn't much if any function.

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25 minutes ago, MickD said:

For future builds consider the methods recommended for this rebuild, and also consider the Fuji sleeves that cover the lock nuts and threads. I think Alps has them also in similar designs.  You won't see the threads at all and will have a nice smooth surface there.

For most of the rods that bass fishermen use there is no need for a foregrip.  I built with foregrips for a long time until I asked myself what is there function, and found there wasn't much if any function.

This is a production Megabass rod. I just want to eliminate that gap. I'd be happy keeping the foregrip but more like the XX series where the locknut is cork.  If there was a way to make that piece screw down that would be fine also. 

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That piece, the foregrip, is epoxied to the blank.  There is no way that I can see to make it screw down.  To remove it is possible, but the mess left will be a problem to dress up nicely.  If it were removed then a cork piece could be turned to fit over the nut, split in half,  then be epoxied to the nut, and would move with the nut.  Final sanding can hide the glue seam necessary to put it back together to some extent.  But that's not easy, even for a good builder.

I think the right way to handle this is to simply accept it the way it is, sell it if you cannot, and buy a rod that meets your expectations.

The fact is that there are designs that are possible to execute by builders when building new rods that are not available in "production" rods.

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that rod would be more cleaner looking without the cork but just finished with the lockdown hood , maybe a small black aluminum winding check . i have never seen the use of a foregrip .

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Scott and Mike have given you the way to modify the front of the seat area. I have trimmed a reel seat on a factory rod to get rid of exposed threads, and it is a ticklish procedure. Not difficult, but not much room for error. Changing the balance point is a different procedure. You would need to drill out the butt grip, epoxy in enough weight to achieve your desired balance point, and then plug the butt grip. I haven't seen an XX rod in person. What does the butt end of the have? Show us a pic looking at the end of the rod.

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1 hour ago, .ghoti. said:

Scott and Mike have given you the way to modify the front of the seat area. I have trimmed a reel seat on a factory rod to get rid of exposed threads, and it is a ticklish procedure. Not difficult, but not much room for error. Changing the balance point is a different procedure. You would need to drill out the butt grip, epoxy in enough weight to achieve your desired balance point, and then plug the butt grip. I haven't seen an XX rod in person. What does the butt end of the have? Show us a pic looking at the end of the rod.

I'm okay with how the butt end looks. Though very slim I can deal with it. The foregrip part is my main concern. It makes the rod look ugly to me. If the blanks weren't so nice I'd never buy a P3 rod solely on its looks haha. When I mention the XX series I was referring to the cork lock nut part of it. It would be great to be able to do that but I was also under the impression that the rear of the rod needed to be stripped but I now realize that's not the case. All changes would be done while leaving the rod intact. 

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6 hours ago, .ghoti. said:

Changing the balance point is a different procedure. You would need to drill out the butt grip, epoxy in enough weight to achieve your desired balance point, and then plug the butt grip.

Do a lot of people use this method? Is it a popular choice?  I did it once, or had it done rather, and really came to dislike that rod because of it.  One of the few I've sold, and wished I hadn't messed with it.  There was no ignoring how much weight the rod gained, even though it had it's desired effect.  So, now when I've had customs built I've asked that no ballast weight be used to obtain balance.

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I also did this. Once. Sold the rod shortly thereafter. I think the whole balance thing is mostly BS. But the OP indicated he wanted to move the balance point. That means either move the reel seat forward, or add weight to the butt. So, I explained how. It is definitely not something I would recommend.  

If you are throwing moving baits, it is impossible to balance against the drag of the crank or spinnerbait, so there is no point trying. A lot of people what their jig and worm rods "balanced". Why? You fish with the rod pointed up most of the time, so what's the issue.

But I don't argue about. If somebody wants a rod "balanced", or tip light, I'll make it that way. It's their money and their choice. They either get a longer handle, or weight added to the butt. I personally don't like either choice. 

It is going to interesting when people start jumping on the over 8' rods that BASS now allows. How long will the handle of a 10' rod have to be to balance it? Three feet? Or more? Or how much weight would be required when the rod has handle of a usable length. Six ounces? Or more?

Ive even read, or heard some say they will be getting a ten foot rod so they can have more leverage on the fish. Bass-ackwards, but let's not start that argument here.

  

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Kind of a relief to know that I'm not the only one that hated that!   I have never liked tip light or neutral balanced rods.  I prefer mine just slightly tip heavy.  Do not like the feel of tip light on the cast.

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For me a neutral balance on the lock nut with a reel mounted is what I want in the balance department. 

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Is this what you mean by build up a ramp? @S Hovanec

IMG_3951.PNG

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1 minute ago, rippin-lips said:

Is this what you mean by build up a ramp? @S Hovanec

IMG_3951.PNG

Kinda.  I want to built it more like one of the aluminum winding checks I like to use, but if you like the more gradual transition, I'll do it like that.

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1 hour ago, S Hovanec said:

Kinda.  I want to built it more like one of the aluminum winding checks I like to use, but if you like the more gradual transition, I'll do it like that.

No, I don't care for the looks of what's pictured above. That's why I wanted to ask. 

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33 minutes ago, rippin-lips said:

No, I don't care for the looks of what's pictured above. 

Me either.

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