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burns

Rod selection, help appreciated!

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Hi folks, 


It's my first post here, and I'm glad to be with you.  Most of my fishing over the last 20 years has been with a fly rod, but I've always enjoyed spin-fishing at the local lakes and rivers as well.  That said, my spin / bass knowledge is way behind to my fly / trout knowledge so I'm here looking for help. 

 

Lately, I have access to a good bass pond and I'm fishing with the spin rod more often.  The bass in there get pretty big.  My most-used setup is a 6'6" Ugly Stik Elite, Medium Power, X-tra fast, with a Shimano Sienna 2500.  I mostly fish with Senkos (fished weightless), cranks and in-line spinners, but I'm learning and expanding and just bought some horny toads and a light chatter bait to try out because I want to learn.  

 

I want to upgrade to a nicer spin outfit, but first, I'm getting a thirst to try bait casters.  Rather than upgrade in a year or two, I want to get something fairly nice and I'm budgeting right around $300 for rod and reel.  That said, I wouldn't mind spending less and I really don't want to go much higher than that at all.  

 

I'm thinking that, based on my most-used lures, I want something around 7', MF or MHF.  So my first question is, based on the aforementioned lures, do you think I am on the right track with this rod type, and should I go MF or MHF? 

 

Second question; I've been reading here a lot and am leaning toward either a St. Croix Mojo Bass, Cabelas Tournament ZX or a Abu Veritas.  I'm thinking of a Curado for the reel.  I started out leaning towards a $59 Fenwick on sale, paired with a BPS TQ but decided I don't want to spend the money just to end up upgrading in years to comes.  


Thanks in advance for any advice you have on which rod (feel free to suggest others if you think I'm off track) and the length, action, power I'm leaning toward.  

 

Burns

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Hello and Welcome to Bass Resource ~

 

As all of your reading here has no doubt shown, it's tricky business recommending a rod & reel for another angler. 

If you've got very limited hands on experience with casting gear,  I'd encourage you to get to a tackle or sports shop and handle some rods, and mount a few different reels on them.  See how they feel in your hand, what's the balance like.  That will give both an experienced & novice basshead a decent idea at least as to what feels good.    6'6" to 7' M & MH casting outfits are both decent all around or general use rigs.  One's just a little beefier than the other.   If you're only planning on purchasing one rig, select the one that will fish the majority of the baits & techniques you plan on fishing the most the best.

A-Jay

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Welcome. AJs advice is sound. The new mojo paired with the curado is a real good starting point. 

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:welcome:to the forum.  Personally I would be looking at a MHF or MH-MF.  I'd say the rods you mentioned are good choices from what I have read about them.  Never cared for the looks of the older Mojo rod, but the blank on the new model is getting a lot of praise.  May have to try one myself....along with a Fury, Sierra and Genesis II.  :teeth:

 

Shimano makes some nice reels.  I have no experience with the Curado 200i or 70 series.  I do like my E series reels.  You read a lot about the 70 series.  Seems to be a favorite for quite a few.  Of the rods you mentioned, I would pick the same combo DVT mentioned.  I see Universal Mania has the HG priced at $150.86 with no tax and free shipping.  Never dealt with them, but that is a very nice price.

 

EDIT:  If you don't mind exceeding your $300 limit by a few dollars (about $30), I would suggest looking at Hammer rods.  Might want to consider a Heavy in this line.

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That combo would be great for a first set-up. In the mojo line I would look at the 7'1" MF. That covers a pretty good range of weights as St.Croix's tend to fish slighty heavier than other brands. (comparing a st.croix medium to a Loomis medium) The curado 200i would also be a good choice as Shimano is redoing the curado (not the 70) and can be found for a discount. 

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You've got great advice above and I hate spending people's money for them but as an owner of the equipment you are interested I feel I should chime in and give my experience.

If you can do it, spend 330 and get a 7'1 mhf mojo with a Curado 70 hg. That would be a phenomenal and useful first casting combo. You will be able use that setup to throw everything from light plastics to horny toads no problem. It will handle 1/4 ounce moving baits and senkos extremely well. It will be light and not to stiff or too flimsy to cast a wide variety of stuff. 

If you get the Curado 200 the combo will run you 50 dollars less. But as an avid curado user, I'd tell you I wish all but my cranking combos were the 70 sized. Smaller lighter and cast your light baits extremely well. All around an improvement over the 200. 

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WELCOME aboard! You've chosen the right place to get correct information from the best bass fishing forum there is. However, since I've never spent as much money, as you are planning to spend, on any of my rod/reel combinations, I can't be of help to you. You'll do just fine. :)

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Get a Dobyns Fury for around $110 and a Daiwa Tatula reel for around $100 and pocket $100 for a later date.

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Thanks for the advice fellas.  

I definitely am going to order a Curado 200i (lefty) for $149.  I just like the reel having played with it tonight at Cabelas.  

I took a look today and am still thinking either Mojo Bass MHF or MF, or Veritas 6'9" MHF 2-piece.  I really like the look and feel of the Mojo more but as I was thinking about it, the 2-piece would be nice to keep in my trunk...I travel a lot.   It's also $50 less.  Wish Croix made the Mojo in a 2-piece. 

I know I don't need such expensive gear but I'm kind of a gear head, and I'd rather spend a bit more $ and get what I really want so I don't end up "upgrading" within just a few years.  That said, if you think the Curado is overkill, and something a bit less pricey is just as good please let me know.  

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Curados are not overkill. They are a little hard to tame but will reward you afterwards. i think you are wise in getting quality gear for your first BC combo. If you are like me, it will make the experience significantly better. 

 

Curados are awesome for the price. Id get the 71 (1s are left) unless you really need the extra line capacity of the 201. best palming reel i have fished. palms better than the smaller and more expensive aldebaran in my hands.

 

Learn about gear ratios if you havent already before you purchase. HG (7.x:1), XG (8.x:1) ect. I myself like around 7:1 for an all around ratio on most smaller reels.

 

M or MH would depend on lure weight and amount and type of cover or grass. In cover, baits on the lower end of the lure weight rating of MH would probably work. In open water, you could fish the upper end of a M. If i had 2 rods, id have a M spinning and MH BC.

 

ive not fished the mojo but have a bunch of avids. i dont think you can go wrong with the mojo.

 

oh - and try some jigs and soft plastics!

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46 minutes ago, bigfruits said:

 

 

 

48 minutes ago, bigfruits said:

Curados are not overkill. They are a little hard to tame but will reward you afterwards. i think you are wise in getting quality gear for your first BC combo. If you are like me, it will make the experience significantly better. 

 

Curados are awesome for the price. Id get the 71 (1s are left) unless you really need the extra line capacity of the 201. best palming reel i have fished. palms better than the smaller and more expensive aldebaran in my hands.

 

Learn about gear ratios if you havent already before you purchase. HG (7.x:1), XG (8.x:1) ect. I myself like around 7:1 for an all around ratio on most smaller reels.

 

M or MH would depend on lure weight and amount and type of cover or grass. In cover, baits on the lower end of the lure weight rating of MH would probably work. In open water, you could fish the upper end of a M. If i had 2 rods, id have a M spinning and MH BC.

 

ive not fished the mojo but have a bunch of avids. i dont think you can go wrong with the mojo.

 

oh - and try some jigs and soft plastics!

Thanks for the info; if you go to the size 70 instead of 200, are you saying it makes sense to go to a more aggressive gear ratio to make up for the smaller spook?  I was going to go with the "middle of the road" 6:1.  So, if you go to 70, is 7:1 a better "all rounder"?  

 

Where do you fish in NOVA?  I'm in Haymarket.

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44 minutes ago, burns said:

 

Thanks for the info; if you go to the size 70 instead of 200, are you saying it makes sense to go to a more aggressive gear ratio to make up for the smaller spook?  I was going to go with the "middle of the road" 6:1.  So, if you go to 70, is 7:1 a better "all rounder"?  

 

Where do you fish in NOVA?  I'm in Haymarket.

 

The 70 hg in the 7 gear ratio has a retrieve rate of 28 inches per turn, the 200 in the 6 gear ratio is 26 inches per turn. You are talking 2 or less per turn on a long cast because of the difference in spool size. 

the big difference between the two is the 70s ability to cast lighter lures farther and with less effort, it palms nicer and to me is much more desirable reel as an all around starter reel. 

 

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First let me welcome you to the site. 

Next, before you commit to the Shimano Curado series let me give you another idea.

Take a very serious look at the Daiwa Tatula CT reels.    I have been getting rid of all of my Curados and Chronarchs in favor of the Tatula CT and Tatula reels.  If you read some of the previous responses it was mentioned that the Curado is a reel that you need to learn to tame, but it will be worth it. Why go thru that learning curve. The Shimano has a centrifugal brake system .  You have to open the reel up set a number of breaks then close it up.  Then you can play with an external dial to fine tune it.  Lots of guys have a love for these reels, I do not.  I prefer the Daiwa Magforce Z system. It is a magnetic brake system with an automatically activated drum providing a hybrid centrifugal/ magnetic brake system.  This means all you do set the external dial for the magnetic system and cast.  It works fantastic.  The Daiwa Tatula CT retails for $129, and can be purchased for $100 shipped to your door.   If interested I can share that with you later.  I would say that for an all purpose reel a 6.3-1 or 7.3-1 will be fine. Most of my reels are 6.3-1.

Check out this video, it will explain how the Mag force Z brakes works.  

 

 

So that would be my suggestion. Start with a Daiwa Tatula CT for $100.

 

To me the definition of an all purpose baitcasting rod is a 6'8 to 7'3" medium heavy power fast action rod.  For the dollar Dobyns, Irod and Powell offer some of the best quality rods out there. The Dobyns Fury and Sierra rods are made with high quality sensitive blanks, and quality components. In both the Fury and Sierra series a 704 or a 734 are tough to beat.

In an Irod I would consider the IRG 693C and the IRG 744C are fantastic all purpose rods.  These are well balanced sensitive and use high quality components as well.

 

When I go fishing there are 12 baitcasting setups in my rod box, along with 3 spinning ones as well. The most versatile rod among them is a Powell Max 683CEF.  That is a 6'8" medium heavy extra fast tipped rod. It can do most everything. They are not making the rods in "Max series" but offer that rod in both the Inferno and Max3D series.  Both are great rods.

I own one Veritas and sold another Veritas rod.  Neither rod is as sensitive nor is made with the same quality of components.  Many users have had issues with the guide inserts falling out.

I am not a fan of St Croix either, in fact I sold off all of my St Croix's over the last few years. I have no experience with the Cabelas rod.

 

 If it were me, I would consider getting the Daiwa reel ( saving some money and getting a better reel at the same time).  Match it with an Irod Genesis II for $149, a Dobyns Fury for $110, a Dobys Sierra for $170 or the Powell for either $110 or $160.  If you chose a Fury or a Powell Inferno you could also pick a nice spinning rod to go with your current Shimano spinning reel and stay pretty close to you $300 budget.  That would upgrade your entire arsenal nicely.      

  

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On 3/29/2017 at 10:30 PM, burns said:

 

Thanks for the info; if you go to the size 70 instead of 200, are you saying it makes sense to go to a more aggressive gear ratio to make up for the smaller spook?  I was going to go with the "middle of the road" 6:1.  So, if you go to 70, is 7:1 a better "all rounder"?  

 

Where do you fish in NOVA?  I'm in Haymarket.

 

i like 7.x:1 as an "all rounder" regardless of spool size but yes a smaller spool will have less IPT at same ratio. 6.1 to me would be for med to smaller deep cranks but many like that speed as an all around.

 

harper's ferry to riverbend (shallow) and chainbridge to pointlookout on the potomac. occoquan reservoir.

 

brunswick to point of rocks is fun for small mouth but too shallow at many parts for a bass boat. get on google earth and zoom in on the lakes around your area. feel free to PM me about spots.

 

for a wkend trip check out briery creek, smith mountain, kerr reservoir.

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Had a blast the last couple days. Caught 5 bass in an hour and a half a couple days ago at one local pond, and another 7 or so yesterday evening at another local pond, all on my Ugly Stik and Shimano Sienna and some really old shoddy mono, with lipless cranks and an in-line spinner.  

 

So, I went a little overboard cause A) life is short and B ) I decided just to buy a couple different things, see what I like and sell off what I don't like.  So I found a Curado 70 series on eBay new for $160 and ordered that in 7.1, then ordered a Daiwa Tatula CT on eBay for $100 in 7.1 which, which should be a little faster.  I figured if I end up liking and keeping both I can use the Curado as the "all-rounder" with one line type and the Tatula for frogging if nothing else, with another line type.  Or I can just sell one.  

 

Got an ABU Veritas on sale in a 2-piece 6'9 MHF to keep in the back of my car.  I decided I definitely wanted at least one two-piece casting rod.  I'm probably going to get a second rod sometime this summer, maybe a Mojo Bass.  

 

Thanks for the advice folks, this is going to be a great fishing season; I'm going to get out more this year!  

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New member here as well, and I signed up to the site after lurking and finding great information on the site.

 

I was in the same boat and was looking for my first baitcasting set up. Most of my limited fishing experience has been in saltwater, and I did not want to make the same mistake and start with a cheapo set up that I'd probably "have" (probably more "want") to upgrade soon.

 

I had a budget of about $250 for my first freshwater baitcaster combo and after considering a few different rods and reels, I went with a Tatula CT Type-R (7.3:1) matched to a Tatula Rod (721MHRB). Was able to score this combo for about $230. As I wait for them to arrive, I came across a listing on another forum for 2 Mojo Bass Rods and a Lews LFS, which I promptly traded for. So I now have 2 combos, and another rod that needs a reel (maybe a Curado 201HG) haha! Life is short.

 

 

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Welcome Aboard,Give Lews a look.Arond 200 you can get a great outfit.

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Go to store and hold a Shimano Exage rod - just released. Although i event fished one yet, they feel great for the price tag! I would stay stick to a 7ft MHF as an all around rod, tight lines!

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Casting light lures with a bait caster is not easy.  If you're focusing on lighter lures, probably you should stick to spinning.  Weightless senkos is something I won't do with a baitcaster, and I've been bait-casting for many many years.  

 

With either BC or spin the power of the rod should be determined mostly by the weight of the lures expected to be used.  This is to load the rod properly on the cast  .  If you have the rod loaded right it will cast more easily, and longer.  Look for a rod that gives its lure range that will include most of your proposed lures.  Don't worry about the line recommendation other than a second indication of power.  Use whatever pound test you want and adjust the drag according to the line you use and the feel on the strike that you want.  For example, the more aggressive the strike you anticipate, the lower the drag setting, and vice versa.

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