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Adding a fore grip to a finished rod

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I want to add a fore grip to a Falcon Bucco with micro-guides . Is that doable ? I have never built or altered a rod before .

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I think the only practical way is to bore a foregrip to the right size (slightly oversize of the blank so it will not be under stress when glued to the blank) based on measurements of the blank, then carefully split it, glue it on (wrapped firmly but not super tightly with something like electrical tape), then sand to eliminate the joint as much as possible.  If the joint is too obvious for you, then wrap the grips with Winn wrap or similar product.  I'm talking cork.  I have not worked  a lot with EVA.  It may stretch over the micros, but I doubt it.

 

Of course, all the guides can be removed, then reinstalled, but I don't think that is what you are asking about.

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Bore fore grip to correct size, using a coping saw, or similar saw cut grip from inside out. Do not cut all the way through, you want to break the grip in half the rest of the way because an irregular edge is so much easier to hide once you glue the halves back on the rod.

Grip size will be governored by the height of the guides, distance from the reel, and height of reel off the rod. You don't want anything touching under casting, or full flex under load while fishing. Your line will cut any grip under load reeling, or under a drag.

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The above procedure will work for installing the grip, but are the threads on the reel seat trimmed too shot?  Rods with no foregrip typically have trimmed threads so when the reel is installed, no threads show.  If you install a foregrip, you won't be able to back off the locking nut to put a reel on.

 

You may be able to have a threaded foregrip made.  One where you turn the grip to lock the reel on the seat.  Probably only have to remove the stripper guide to install it.

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I also own a Falcon Bucoo rod that I love to fish with.

If I really wanted to change it up, I would find a custom rod builder. They can do magic.  I own a G Loomis IMX spinning rod that was purchased to replace a broken one ( partial warranty replacement plus an upgrade fee). The brand new one had a reel seat with a plastic hood and nut. 

It was constantly loosening up so I asked a friend that does amazing rod work if we could make some changes. He removed the entire cork handle and reel seat assembly. We chose a completely different reel seat and a split set of Winn Grips.  It totally changed what was a really nice rod ( minus a crappy reel seat hood and nut assembly) I fished it a lot on our vacation the next week. In fact, I enjoyed that medium action rod so much that I had him upgrade the sister rod to it, a medium light model.  Here are a few pics.  Also go check out my friend Tom's website.  http://www.tomscustomrods.com/custom-rods-galley  He has examples of custom rods he has built and also an entire gallery of repairs, both before and after pics.  He could probably do anything you wanted. if not you could find another guy closer to you.

 

576a9c9930f9e_GLoomisIMXseat2.thumb.jpg.87cb9667eea96467612fc454a4157ef2.jpg57660738156c1_20160128_111711(1).thumb.jpg.57b26622e52183c00c168c1f286511f4.jpg

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Looks like there is not a simple way to do it.  I'll just trade it . Thanks for the responses .

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What are you looking for as a trade? Is yours a cast or spin. 

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I'll be the first to admit I've never done a complete rod build but while reading this it made me think of something. Maybe I missed something or it's just a stupid question--LOL!

 

The guy ask if it were possible to put a foregrip on a completed rod. How on earth would you get the components over the guides? 

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You don't put it over the guides.  If the rear grip is cork, try to find a piece that matches pretty well, form the piece into the shape you want, carefully bore and ream it to be just slightly oversize to the blank, then carefully split it.  You want as clean a cut as possible, so you may want to practice a little first.  Then epoxy it back together on the rod, making sure you close the seam as well as possible.  Locate the seam at 270/90 degrees to minimize seeing it.  Then sand both the fore and rear grips to the same appearance.  The seam will be minimal if you did a skillfull job.  Apply a sealer to keep the refreshed cork and the new cork looking good, U40 won't change the color, TruOil will make it darker and bring out the grain some.

 

Not a piece of cake, but if it's important to get a fore-grip, it can be done without re-wrapping the whole rod.

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