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bma3

Tips on casting with fluoro?

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Yesterday I put new fluoro on my brand new cranking combo and had a lot of trouble casting with it. I felt like I would always birds next no matter how much tension and braking I used. It even got so bad that I had to cut out a birds nest. Any tips? Thanks. 

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Yep, FC line needs a good line conditioner to help water wet the line. Without the aid of a conditioner FC line doesn't absorb or stay wet and results in dry line springing off the spool as it slows down.

The most popular is KVD line conditioner however it requires being sprayed on the line several hours before use. I prefer TangleFree 2 oz bottle that you can apply as needed.

Tom

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Spool tension knob loose. With barely side to side play. Or just tight enough to eliminate. Put cast control breaks 3/4 all the way on. Make a smooth castbut really load the rod so the bait slings with good acceleration and velocity. Back of cast control to desired breaking with practice . Make sure your rod, lure, and line size match a system that works. Too light a lure, or too heavy line coupled with the wrong rod makes casting difficult. Big ol heavy lures cast pretty good 

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13 hours ago, WRB said:

Yep, FC line needs a good line conditioner to help water wet the line. Without the aid of a conditioner FC line doesn't absorb or stay wet and results in dry line springing off the spool as it slows down.

The most popular is KVD line conditioner however it requires being sprayed on the line several hours before use. I prefer TangleFree 2 oz bottle that you can apply as needed.

Tom

Do you need to use line conditioner every time you go out or is it just a one-time thing?

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24 minutes ago, bma3 said:

Do you need to use line conditioner every time you go out or is it just a one-time thing?

Yes. Line conditioner like KVD L & L or TangleFree will last your all year using it regularly, doesn't take more a few drops for each reel.

I use TangleFree as stated earlier and on hot dry days like now I apply it about every hour. Cool moist days maybe ounce or twice in 8 hours. KVD is a ounce a trip application, but you spray it onto the reel spooled line the night before your trip.

Tom

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Here's my tip - become a more experienced/better caster B) ...and I don't mean that negatively. I am almost 100% fluoro on every baitcaster I own, ranging from 8# up to 25# test, throw everything from Shad Raps to A-rigs, and I don't have any issues - never used line conditioner. It might help you initially while learning, but you don't need it. Simply become a better caster and your fluoro "issues" will go away.

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19 minutes ago, WRB said:

Yes. Line conditioner like KVD L & L or TangleFree will last your all year using it regularly, doesn't take more a few drops for each reel.

I use TangleFree as stated earlier and on hot dry days like now I apply it about every hour. Cool moist days maybe ounce or twice in 8 hours. KVD is a ounce a trip application, but you spray it onto the reel spooled line the night before your trip.

Tom

 

Doesn't that get slightly expensive?

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3 minutes ago, pondbassin101 said:

 

Doesn't that get slightly expensive?

For the price of a Starbucks Coffee, a bottle will last a month or more

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Just now, NHBull said:

For the price of a Starbucks Coffee, a bottle will last a month or more

 

makes sense

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32 minutes ago, WRB said:

Yes. Line conditioner like KVD L & L or TangleFree will last your all year using it regularly, doesn't take more a few drops for each reel.

I use TangleFree as stated earlier and on hot dry days like now I apply it about every hour. Cool moist days maybe ounce or twice in 8 hours. KVD is a ounce a trip application, but you spray it onto the reel spooled line the night before your trip.

Tom

Do I just apply it to the surface when my reel is spooled or will i have to take some line out and get under there a little bit?

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what line and reel and bait weight? does your reel have internal and external brakes? are your internal brakes actually all off and you think theyre on?

 

kvd l&l will help but its not the main cause of your issue if youre using decent FC. 

 

7 minutes ago, bma3 said:

Do I just apply it to the surface when my reel is spooled or will i have to take some line out and get under there a little bit?

 

if i am respooling, i hit the reel with it prob 3 times as i am getting towards the end.

 

after that i just spray the spool as i turn it, nozzle close to the line and watching to make sure the entire spool is wet. works for me, if you have the patience to unspool a cast length and spray several times im sure thats better. some people spray a non abrasive rag and run the line through.  

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6 minutes ago, bma3 said:

Do I just apply it to the surface when my reel is spooled or will i have to take some line out and get under there a little bit?

Best if applied as it is spooled, but no big deal if it isn't.

For best results give the spool a cpl squires the night before and one an hr when fishing.

 

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10 minutes ago, bigfruits said:

what line and reel and bait weight? does your reel have internal and external brakes? are your internal brakes actually all off and you think theyre on?

I am using Sunline Super FC as my line and an Okuma Cerros reel. My bait that I was using yesterday was 1/2 ounce. I haven't been able to find any sort of internal braking, only a knob on the side. 

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The OP didn't state what brand or lb test FC he is using, he state it was a new crankbait rod and reel combination also unknown brands.

He could spool the reel with 10 or 12 lb Big Game and dial the reel in. Big Gamecis excellent casting mono and I use it for crankbaits.

FC line in general has higher memory then mono and as mentioned doesn't wet like mono does. Hot dry days FC can be difficult to cast on baitcasters especially with crankbaits.

Adjusting the brakes is important and adjusting the spool end cap tension is also important, but an educated thumb is essential to prevent backlashes. FC is by far the most difficult line to cast.

Tom

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I use fluro on everything and have never used line conditioner.  When I was learning to cast a baitcaster, I used mono for the first few thousands casts.

 

Is the backlash at the beginning or end of the cast?  A trick I've learned on both spinning and casting gear when bass fishing with fluro is to only spool 90 to 95 percent of the spools capacity with line. 

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Use mono backing on half the spool and don't overspool the floro. It'll help the casting and save some cash. 

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Looked only online "how to adjust Okuma Cerros brakes". The side plate is pushed down to disengage, remove and adjust the brake from 1-9 setting, reinstall side plate.

Tom 

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4 hours ago, offsidewing said:

I use fluro on everything and have never used line conditioner.  When I was learning to cast a baitcaster, I used mono for the first few thousands casts.

 

Is the backlash at the beginning or end of the cast?  A trick I've learned on both spinning and casting gear when bass fishing with fluro is to only spool 90 to 95 percent of the spools capacity with line. 

The backlash is at the beginning. And yeah, I'd say about 85-90% of my spool is full. 

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I've been using fluro for years. I'm only 29 and ive been fishing with Baitcasters for about 22 years. First off you don't need line condtioner or to wet it that's all b.s. The reason why people have issues with fluro is simple. They aren't setting up the reel properly or they don't know how to properly cast. There not putting the line on properly and most importantly they get the wrong pound line. As a rule fluro has a thinner diameter then most monos. For instance Berkley trilene 12lbs smooth casting. Is .013 inch .33mm where 12lbs pline fluroclear is .012 inch and .31mm. Both are the same pound but the fluro is thinner. So if your having issues just simply get a little heavier line. Also if your knots are coming out your not tieing them rite. I've never had one knot every come out on me and I've never once wet the line.

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On 7/8/2017 at 11:27 PM, WRB said:

Looked only online "how to adjust Okuma Cerros brakes". The side plate is pushed down to disengage, remove and adjust the brake from 1-9 setting, reinstall side plate.

Tom 

Sounds like op hasn't even touched the brakes.  That would be a good place to start.  Also still hasn't told us what lb test.

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FC line is inherently dry line with high memory, meaning it doesn't wet and wants to come off the spool. Line treatments coat the surface of FC line to allow water to stick on the coating, the wet FC tends to stay on the spool better than dry line.

Anyone who has tried to cast crankbaits into a wind over 40 yards knows it's difficult using a bait casting with FC line without the line loosening on the spool regardless skilled you are. To state you don't have any problems casting with FC line is naive, I have trouble doing it. Casting wet mono line is easier than FC and the OP should give up trying casting crankbaits using FC, no advantage only problems.

Tom

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16 minutes ago, KEEP!ON!FISHING said:

Reason why I said wet it is because I talked to a handful of people who try saying you have to wet fluro before tying a knot or it comes out.

You should wet all single filament lines to lubricate the surface to reduce heating from friction during the clinching phase of knot tying. This has nothing to do with preventing backlashes, a good knot can save a few lures if you backlash.

Wet in polymer terms is different then applying water to the surface. Hygroscopic is the ability to absorb water, like a sponge absorbs water. FC is like steel, it doesn't absorb water. Nylon is like a sponge it does absorb water.

Tom

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6 hours ago, WRB said:

You should wet all single filament lines to lubricate the surface to reduce heating from friction during the clinching phase of knot tying. This has nothing to do with preventing backlashes, a good knot can save a few lures if you backlash.

Wet in polymer terms is different then applying water to the surface. Hygroscopic is the ability to absorb water, like a sponge absorbs water. FC is like steel, it doesn't absorb water. Nylon is like a sponge it does absorb water.

Tom

Funny you should mention that.  I just got a new-2-me reel that came spooled with FC.  My first thought was that it felt like wire.

 

OP, considering you didn't know how to set the internal braking, that would be my first step.  No brakes equals backlashes no matter what line you use unless you grew up with baitcasters like some of these guys.  I didn't and need brakes on.  What pound test are you using?  Personally I think going bigger is the wrong way to go.  The heavier the line, the stiffer it will be.  The stiffer the line is the more trouble it will cause.  That is why many are telling you to use a line conditioner.

 

I've got a couple Okuma's, but not that model.  I can recommend a reel that you can cast FC on and never use your thumb.  Costs a bit tho.  I just picked up a used Excense DC.  That is the reel the previously mentioned FC that felt like wire is on.  Used it last night for the first time.  No line conditioner.  No idea when it got used last.  Spool has no side to side play but lure drops like a rock.  I didn't touch anything other than the outside dial.  Set dial on SP, BB, F or Max and no thumb is needed.  No overrun whatsoever.

 

I've only used 2 or 3 brands of FC and Sunline Super FC wasn't one of them.  I do know that some FC brands are stiffer (harder?) than others.  A softer one will cast easier, but also stretch more and be less abrasion resistant...as a general rule.

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On 9/24/2017 at 11:59 AM, IndianaOutdoors said:

Sounds like op hasn't even touched the brakes.  That would be a good place to start.  Also still hasn't told us what lb test.

I have adjusted the brakes, I'm not a rookie lol. It's 12lb test. 

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