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pauldconyers

Telescopic lure retriever?

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Been losing a lot of crank baits and such in underwater timber recently and decided to do something about it. In regards to lure retrieval devices I think I want to use the kind on a telescopic pole as I do a lot of bank fishing too. Was checking out this specific product and was wondering if anyone had any experience with it:

 

http://mygogetit.com/index.htm

 

I think the design that has the coiled up spring on the end makes the most sense to me get down the the body of the lure and then "push" it the opposite way to get it to release. I've read a couple of positive reviews on this one and I like the price comparatively and the fact it can also be had in an 18 foot variety. Just looking for some advice or a recommendation.

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I use one with the coiled wire and have saved tons of baits as well as retrieving lots of other people's lost lures out of trees. The biggest benefit I can see of the coil over that one, the hooks often catch on the wire and allow me to pull the lure free. It seems with that one, if you can't push the lure free, it's still going to be stuck. So when you catch a ball of old fishing line, or bury a crankbait hook in a stump that felt like a fish, it's not going to do you any good most likely, but the coiled version could catch the hooks and you can pull hard enough to straighten the hook and retrieve the bait. 

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If you're going to get serious about lure retrievers, you will need both types, the extendable pole type and the "hound dog" style. If you're bank fishing, 18' won't stretch as far as you imagine it will.  18' total length will give you a working length of 15' or 16' max.  Boat fishing, you need both, some situations favor the extendable pole, others require the drop down plug knocker.

 

While we're on the subject, the lure retriever on the link you gave seems a little cheap to me - in that the extendable pole looked a little thin.  You get what you pay for.   I forget what I paid for mind, and I probably didn't pay full price, however I'm pretty sure I paid more than $20.  When you buy the extendable pole, be mindful of where you're going to store it.   If it isn't readily accessible, you'll have to re-arrange stuff to get to it, you'll waste time and it will probably be windy, it is just asking for it.

Plan ahead and store the pole where it is easily accessible.  In my case, easily accessible means that it is often in the way when I don't need it.  I have a 5 minute rule that applies to stuck lures.   If freeing a bait takes more than 5 minutes, I'm very likely to break it off.   Certain lures, like Lucky Crafts and other expensive baits I'll make an exception.

 

This year I've been taking more time to free tx rigged lures.   Don't care so much about the bait, but I'd just as soon save the tungsten.  Most of the time the drop down plug knocker works better in this case - but not every time.   That is why you might as well carry both styles.

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@Bluebasser86 & @Fishes in trees both nailed it.

 Truth is, getting hung up is as much a part of bass fishing as casting and if I'm not getting snagged occasionally, I'm probably fishing in the wrong place and not getting bit; especially for largemouth. 

Clearly, selecting the proper presentation for the situation is a prerequisite of help keeping hang ups to a minimum, but where no bait is totally snag proof, having a plan to free a few can save one some $$ and perhaps a little frustration. 

 Getting hung up while throwing any crankbait into timber enough is almost inevitable.

If I needed to do it from the bank, I may pick a different deal, something I could work through the deeper reaches of the area without trebles; perhaps a swimbait on a weighted hook or a soft jerkbait even.   Both single hook deals that can effectively be presented deep and are easily 'walked" over & through most lumber situations effectively.  Both catch bass. 

Finally, I do not have the 'extendable pole' type retriever as I'm rarely fishing water 'shallow' enough to use it effectively. 

However, I do use a home made 'hound dog' type on a long line most every trip I'm throwing baits in & around deep cover.

  Mine has the typical heavy weight, strong cord and 2 short lengths of 'chain'.  If the weight doesn't knock it off and there is at least one hook exposed somewhere, the chain might snag it so I can yank it free.  Doesn't always work but it's a whole lot better nothing.

And finally, if you fish with fluorocarbon line (or leader) I'd encourage you not to totally lean on a snag while trying to free it. 

It doesn't recover from a heavy stretch like mono can and instead can will actually contribute to failure later on, and without any signs that anything is amiss.  To Re-tie can also be a good plan.

Good Luck

A-Jay

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I had a mygogetit.  The clipping mechanism on the head is difficult to lock in the line and actually had the line slip out of the keeper a few times as well.  The poles are very flimsy and tend to bow and flex a good bit when contact is  made with a snagged lure which limits the downward force applied to lure.  The bottom section of mine separated from the middle section thus costing me a retriever and a lure.

 

Replaced it with one with curly end and a sturdier pole.  This has been a much better unit.

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Stump Master In 15 feet and 20 feet.. I have the 20 foot one, it works very easy when connecting the fishing line with the lure retriever.. I have added catch chains on this unit also..

http://www.ezyglide.com/lure-retrievers#!__lure-retrievers

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