Hey guys, what brake settings do you all use for either the Daiwa Tatula SV TW or Abu Revo X (mine is the winch)?  Just trying to get some ideas before setting these up and taking them out.  If you can tell me which reel you have and maybe a few settings for different lures (mainly something like a 1/2 oz lipless setting and a chatterbait/spinnerbait setting) that will help! 

The Tatula line of reels adjust different than any other reel.  This is because of the MagForce Z brake system.

Take a few minutes to watch these two youtube videos. The first video will explain how the different versions of brakes on Daiwa reels operate. The second one is Brett Ehler showing you how to properly adjust one.

You are located in VA I see. If you ever want to meet up here in Baltimore I would be happy to show you how and help you get used to these reels. 8 out of my 12 baitcasters are Tatulas.  Once you properly adjust the spool tension so you have the proper side play I set my brake adjustment around 10 out of 20. I rarely ever reset it even if I change weight of lures. The internal system compensates so well.

As for the Abu I would do some research on youtube as well.

 

 

 

1 hour ago, fishnkamp said:

The Tatula line of reels adjust different than any other reel.  This is because of the MagForce Z brake system.

Take a few minutes to watch these two youtube videos. The first video will explain how the different versions of brakes on Daiwa reels operate. The second one is Brett Ehler showing you how to properly adjust one.

You are located in VA I see. If you ever want to meet up here in Baltimore I would be happy to show you how and help you get used to these reels. 8 out of my 12 baitcasters are Tatulas.  Once you properly adjust the spool tension so you have the proper side play I set my brake adjustment around 10 out of 20. I rarely ever reset it even if I change weight of lures. The internal system compensates so well.

As for the Abu I would do some research on youtube as well.

 

 

 

Thank you for the offer and video suggestions. I've just started looking into videos, and appreciate you linking them!  Both reels in this post do seem pretty intuitive like most, just knowing where to start can be tricky between brands and models.  Always easy to start heavy and work your way down, just figured I'd see if I could take a shortcut

 

Can't wait to use the tatula as I had considered it previously but ended up going with a few Shimano reels instead.  Not at all disappointed with that, but I am looking forward to having more variety in terms of tech in my arsenal.  It seems the revo x has a similar adjustment and main braking system like the tatula, minus the sv part. 

2 hours ago, Riazuli said:

Hey guys, what brake settings do you all use for either the Daiwa Tatula SV TW or Abu Revo X (mine is the winch)?  Just trying to get some ideas before setting these up and taking them out.  If you can tell me which reel you have and maybe a few settings for different lures (mainly something like a 1/2 oz lipless setting and a chatterbait/spinnerbait setting) that will help! 

I have a couple each of sv's, ct's, and fuego ct's in my lineup. I'll look to see what my mag brakes are set at when I get home and post em up. But as far as spool tension goes I tighten it down until I get just a bit of play and then just barely tighten in the slightest. I know for pitching a 3/8 ounce weight plus flipping hook and magnum structure bug my brakes are around 6, and usually I'll take them to 4 or 5 once I get warmed up and in the groove. Casting a 1/2 ounce jig I would say they are around 10 maybe. But I'll let you know what they are set on and what bait is tied on

2 hours ago, CroakHunter said:

I have a couple each of sv's, ct's, and fuego ct's in my lineup. I'll look to see what my mag brakes are set at when I get home and post em up. But as far as spool tension goes I tighten it down until I get just a bit of play and then just barely tighten in the slightest. I know for pitching a 3/8 ounce weight plus flipping hook and magnum structure bug my brakes are around 6, and usually I'll take them to 4 or 5 once I get warmed up and in the groove. Casting a 1/2 ounce jig I would say they are around 10 maybe. But I'll let you know what they are set on and what bait is tied on

Those are good starting points, thank you! 

1 hour ago, Riazuli said:

Those are good starting points, thank you! 

3/8 t-rig is 7

1/2 jig is 9

3/8 jig is 12 (had 14mph wind when throwing it last)

3/4 punch rig is 4

 

1 hour ago, CroakHunter said:

3/8 t-rig is 7

1/2 jig is 9

3/8 jig is 12 (had 14mph wind when throwing it last)

3/4 punch rig is 4

 

That's really helpful, thanks again! 

I rarely throw anything over 1/2 ounce on my CT's and SV's and I usually keep my brakes on 6. The line you use also plays a factor. I usually use P-line tactical fluorocarbon and anything under 6 on the brakes will usually backlash. I spooled one of my reels with Sniper for the first time the other week and I had to turn the brakes up to 8 or 9 to stop it from backlashing. 

2 hours ago, LonnieP said:

I rarely throw anything over 1/2 ounce on my CT's and SV's and I usually keep my brakes on 6. The line you use also plays a factor. I usually use P-line tactical fluorocarbon and anything under 6 on the brakes will usually backlash. I spooled one of my reels with Sniper for the first time the other week and I had to turn the brakes up to 8 or 9 to stop it from backlashing. 

This is important to remember. Fluorocarbon is very dense, so a full spool will be heavier than a comparable amount of mono. Braid is even lighter than mono. You have to add a couple, or subtract a couple, clicks depending on the line.

 

I have a couple Tat SV's with different line, but most recently I was throwing a 1/4oz jighead with a 3" grub using 15lb fluoro. I keep the tension set to where there's just a tiny bit of side-to-side movement and my brakes are set to 6.

47 minutes ago, Tywithay said:

This is important to remember. Fluorocarbon is very dense, so a full spool will be heavier than a comparable amount of mono. Braid is even lighter than mono. You have to add a couple, or subtract a couple, clicks depending on the line.

 

I have a couple Tat SV's with different line, but most recently I was throwing a 1/4oz jighead with a 3" grub using 15lb fluoro. I keep the tension set to where there's just a tiny bit of side-to-side movement and my brakes are set to 6.

I agree. The point that I was making was that, even with the same type of line,  I can turn down my brakes with a limper, better casting line. 

I need to watch these videos, I have several Tatulas that I just can’t cast as well as my curado’s or Revo’s. I am hoping it has to be operator error.

Adjust spool tension on the sv reels so there is the slightest amount of side to side wiggle in the spool. Set brakes at 1/2 way and work your way down to where you can control it the best. SV reels have neither mag V or mag Z braking. They use what Daiwa calls air brake. Not all reels will act the same due to the strength of the magnets in the palm side plate and the inductor on the spool. For example the SV103 has strong magnets in the side plate and the inductor is long on the stock spool. I can turn the brakes down to 2 and have no fluff. I can go to 1 and have to use a little thumb to control it. I can’t do that on my Steez SV 103 though. Even though the spool has the same length inductor. The lowest setting I can go down to is 4 on the brake dial. Throw the aftermarket RCS 1012SV spool in it and I can’t go lower than 6. That sucker is pretty fast. 

So much great info and suggestions that I haven't come across before, guys, and I do my fair share of research.  Thanks a lot! 

Reels with braid, usually around 4. Reels with fluoro 6-10.

Another fun trick to make fluoro more controllable is to use about 30-40 yards of braid as a backing. It sounds funky because you would typically put backing behind braid, but in this instance the braid as a backing makes the spool quite a bit lighter. Even a gram or two makes quite a difference when casting lighter lures. 

2 hours ago, Tywithay said:

Another fun trick to make fluoro more controllable is to use about 30-40 yards of braid as a backing. It sounds funky because you would typically put backing behind braid, but in this instance the braid as a backing makes the spool quite a bit lighter. Even a gram or two makes quite a difference when casting lighter lures. 

Great suggestion