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Want a boat, need advice (novice)

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So I'm looking for a first time fishing boat.  Grew up as a bank fisherman all my life but being an adult now and a sport that I enjoy quite a bit I think it might be nice to have a cheap jon boat or better if I get a good deal.  This one came up on craigslist and seems to be a pretty good deal, however a pretty old boat (1978).  He's asking about $3k for it and from what I've seen on other jon boats that seems like a pretty good deal.  From the photos it looks like it has been well maintained.  What should I be looking for and asking?

 

Little info:  Just moved to this area so not sure about the lakes.  Looks like most lakes in the area are between 100-400 acres with one 640 acre about 30 minutes from me.  I'd probably like to modify the interior to make it more of a bass type boat with platforms.  Would probably fish with a max of 3 people on the boat.

 

The ad:

 

I have an older 18 foot Lund for sale. It has a 60 lbs thrust trolling motor with two newer batteries. The motor is 50 hp and runs great. The top end is about 25 mph. I have built a raised front deck out of aluminum and plywood. The boat is clean and the trailer is in good shape.

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If your still looking for a boat. Look at getting a 2man bass raider 10E they are very good little boats

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Try to determine what it wil cost you to upgrade this boat, then subtract that from the asking price and offer cash. For example new trolling motor, OB tune up, water pump and moving the steering back about 5'. Let's say $800 for ball park, offer $2200.

The old Lund is a good aluminum runabout, the Merc condition is unknown and vintage trolling motor. Never but anything for more then you can sell it for.

Make sure this boat and engine hasn't been in salt water. Looking at the water mark on the bottom and engine it has been in water for long periods of time.

Tom

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That boat...assuming good condition...would sell for $3K, all day, every day around here.

12 hours ago, WRB said:

Try to determine what it wil cost you to upgrade this boat, then subtract that from the asking price and offer cash.

...I'll tell a story where that might not work: We just sold a 2006 Ford Freestyle with 120K miles on it.  It had been well maintained and had been kept in a heated garage for the last 10 years, and in an unheated one the two years before that.

 

I did a lot of looking at the market, condition of other similar Freestyles within about 200 miles and priced it accordingly, allowing a little room for negotiation, because a lot of people don't feel like they've got a "good deal" on a car.

 

We had five people looking within a day of posting it on Craigslist.

 

The first young lady showed up, said she loved it, wanted to bring her friend "who knows a lot about cars" out to look at it the next day.

 

"OK, but I have someone coming to look at it at 1:00 PM, you need to be here and made your decision by then."

 

She comes back with her friend, take it for another short drive, and come back ad ask what I'd take, "$4,150"

 

The friend counters at $3,800, with "It's got some scratches and small dings, and there's a little rust underneath."

 

"Just like every other 12 year old car with 120,000 miles on it?"

 

"Well, yeah...the highest we can go is $3,900."

 

"OK, if no one else buys it in a couple weeks, I'll call you", and I called the next folks who wanted to see it and sold it for $4,150 an hour later.

 

...what I'm getting at is lots of people price their cars/trucks/boats to the market, and take all those things you brought up into account when the price them.  Folks who think they can negotiate down from there wind up frustrated and get to look at a lot of boats that get sold close to the original asking price.

 

It pays to do your research up front and know what your market looks like, and the the market in areas you're willing to drive to to make your purchase.

 

12 hours ago, WRB said:

Never but anything for more then you can sell it for.

There's a lot of things that doesn't work for.

 

12 hours ago, WRB said:

Looking at the water mark on the bottom and engine it has been in water for long periods of time.

The transition to darker green looks like paint, look at the section that is the same color going up behind the motor.

 

...and even if it has been sitting in the water for years, still doesn't leak and the motor runs well would be a bonus.

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30 minutes ago, Further North said:

That boat...assuming good condition...would sell for $3K, all day, every day around here.

...I'll tell a story where that might not work: We just sold a 2006 Ford Freestyle with 120K miles on it.  It had been well maintained and had been kept in a heated garage for the last 10 years, and in an unheated one the two years before that.

 

I did a lot of looking at the market, condition of other similar Freestyles within about 200 miles and priced it accordingly, allowing a little room for negotiation, because a lot of people don't feel like they've got a "good deal" on a car.

 

We had five people looking within a day of posting it on Craigslist.

 

The first young lady showed up, said she loved it, wanted to bring her friend "who knows a lot about cars" out to look at it the next day.

 

"OK, but I have someone coming to look at it at 1:00 PM, you need to be here and made your decision by then."

 

She comes back with her friend, take it for another short drive, and come back ad ask what I'd take, "$4,150"

 

The friend counters at $3,800, with "It's got some scratches and small dings, and there's a little rust underneath."

 

"Just like every other 12 year old car with 120,000 miles on it?"

 

"Well, yeah...the highest we can go is $3,900."

 

"OK, if no one else buys it in a couple weeks, I'll call you", and I called the next folks who wanted to see it and sold it for $4,150 an hour later.

 

...what I'm getting at is lots of people price their cars/trucks/boats to the market, and take all those things you brought up into account when the price them.  Folks who think they can negotiate down from there wind up frustrated and get to look at a lot of boats that get sold close to the original asking price.

 

It pays to do your research up front and know what your market looks like, and the the market in areas you're willing to drive to to make your purchase.

 

There's a lot of things that doesn't work for.

 

The transition to darker green looks like paint, look at the section that is the same color going up behind the motor.

 

...and even if it has been sitting in the water for years, still doesn't leak and the motor runs well would be a bonus.

12 year old car garaged vs 40 year old boat out in open, bit of a difference.

Nothing wrong with negotiating price, it's expected.

Tom

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2 minutes ago, WRB said:

12 year old car garaged vs 40 year old boat out in open, bit of a difference.

Of course...but that wasn't what I was telling the story for...I was trying to convey that the market and condition sets the price, not perceived or potential defects...

 

For example, if someone were to tell me I needed to take several hundred dollars off because they wanted to move the console back, I'd likely suggest they were looking at the wrong boat... 

 

Trolling motors older than about 3-4 years are pretty much worthless, so I'd have that accounted for already, and the motor would have been tuned on it's regular schedule, the water pump replaced, with paperwork to show the last two.

2 minutes ago, WRB said:

Nothing wrong with negotiating price, it's expected.

Yep.  What I was getting at was that it's better to know the market that to try to drive things down based on things that are likely already accounted for in the asking price.

 

I know that had I priced that Lund that way after checking our market, I'd stay close to the price for at least a few weeks...but I'm never in a hurry to sell something like a boat, a car or a truck.  It costs me nothing, and I can run a pretty big "inventory" on 10 acres... ;)

 

The last three boats I've sold have sold inside a week, one at my target price, two slightly above, because they were priced to market...

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This is the op's 1st boat and has no idea what to look for.

1. The Lund is a converted runabout with a full gunnel and covered bow, not a good choice for a open deck bass boat. The wood added by the owner is more then likely dry rotted and needs to be replaced, the console needs to move back, all things to take into consideration when offering a price.

2. The Merc is 40 years old, who keeps maintenance records that long? All a buyer can do is trust the seller and that not a good idea unless you know him. The engine could be in running condition or on it's last legs, unknown factor to consider.

3. Looking around there are lots of bass boats in $3,000 price range to look at without need to modify. Older boats in good condition are very hard to find unless you know the seller.

4. Trailer isn't a big problem, tires over 10 years old should replaced, that is another $100.

5. The boat bottom isn't painted, it's a waterline IMO. Strap to hold the engine from bouncing indicates the trailer isn't used on the road much, maybe to remove from a local lake occasionally.

The list goes on and on, the op is asking what to look for. If the selling price is good, the boat advertised, the boat will sell. My advice is make a offer that includes the cost for needed for improvements within your budget, if this boat meets your needs.

Tom

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...it's all kind of moot..I ran a Craigslist search for 200 miles around Omaha...only one Lund came up that might fit the description and the ad showed being deleted by its author...which usually means it has been sold.

 

Just out of curiosity, what does "converted runabout" mean?

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Back in the era this boat was manufactured family boats with a 3'-4' covered front deck for dry storage and wrap around flat gunnels to help keep occupants dry while running on a plane and had a foreward driving console were called runabouts. This boat has all those features.

Fishing boats by Lund were open with rounded gunnels edges and a short bow plate/seat to maximize open space and ease entry or exit and were tiller operated.

Tom

PS, this maybe a 50's/60's era boat with a late 70's Merc. 

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Sorry everyone I thought I had my settings to e-mail when there was a reply.

 

I went ahead and bought the boat for $2,300.  The motor seemed to run pretty good when we put a water muff on it.  The owner didn't have much information on the boat as he had just bought it from an older gentleman a year before.  The owner was a college student who came back for Easter weekend so I only had a limited time to make a decision.  I wanted to get it in the water which he was happy to oblige but with limited time we just couldn't make it happen.

 

I think the deep-v will be a good boat as I'm a family man and rather have my kids "in" the boat vs "on" the boat compared to a bass boat.

 

The boat is a 1977 Mr. Pike deluxe 18' with a 1980 Merc engine.  From the sounds of it I should look at replacing the trolling motor which I've been trying to learn how much thrust and how long the shaft needs to be.  Since the fishing season is about to start I would only like to work on any safety issues of the boat and start working on fixing the boat when it's a little colder or have better plans on what to do.

 

The owner built a platform to make it more of a bass boat in the front so that platform is in good condition.  I've looked at some of the projects at iboat to get an idea of what I should do to convert this into a decent fishing boat.  Does anyone have recommendations on websites I should read to decide what types of conversions I should look into for this boat?

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You saved $700 from the asking price and made a good deal.

The 1st thing I would do is have the Merc water pump impeller changed, compression checked and determine the fuel to oil mix ratio if unknown.

Take the boat out and use it to get familiar with it. If the trolling works use it. Put a paddle in the boat. Make sure you have PFD's, working fire extinguisher, anchor with rope, this can all go into a plastic milk create, maybe under the front deck?, if not plenty of room in the stern area.

Check the trailer lights, tires and bearing grease before trailing the boat.

Check the steering cables for any worn or loose parts. Make sure you have a spare drain plug.

Enjoy your boat and take your time before making a lot of changes.

Tom

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