Trying my hand at rod building again after giving up a few years ago. Just have the handles done so far. Need to order some more guides and tip tops.

 

Need some 6.5 tube size 5 tips for the casting rods so I am looking for recommendations. 

 

Allen 

mudhole,DVT....other rod building supply shops.

Mud hole and Get Bit have large inventory. Tip tops are pretty straight forward. Fuji BFAT is my default. That’s a black,f, Alconite, top. 6.5 it stout tip is it for a h or mh?

15 minutes ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

Mud hole and Get Bit have large inventory. Tip tops are pretty straight forward. Fuji BFAT is my default. That’s a black,f, Alconite, top. 6.5 it stout tip is it for a h or mh?

That is what the 2 casting rods need.

Lamiglas XMG 50 864

St Croix 3C70MHF

 

Going with alconite KR casting 10, 6 double foot with single foot 5 runners and top. Using polished frame guides which are easy to pick out. Tip tops there are a lot of choices just trying to figure out what to get. 

 

Allen 

https://www.mudhole.com/Fuji-All-Purpose-Spin-Cast-Top-F?quantity=1&custcol21=16&custcol_tube_size=10  
 

this a match to your guides. 

Man are those single foot 4.5 guides hard to attach.

 

Allen 

No, not really,but 2 mm ones are.

All the really small guides are a challenge.  Different builders use different techniques.  One is the stretchy thread, tie the foot to the blank with a square knot.  Another is to use the tiny O rings.  Another is a dab of the hot melt cement designed for setting guides (problem with this is that it doesn't allow easy guide movement during a stress test, and might leave a little residue on the blank), rubber bands designed for dental braces.  Another is, after you know exactly where the guide will be located, is to start wrapping up the foot a ways, then slide the guide carefully into its final positon with the first 20 or so wraps being slid off the foot leaving enough wraps on the foot to hold the guide for final wraps.  Another is tiny strips of masking tape.

I didn't describe the next to last process correctly.  What you do is to start your wrap on the blank without the guide in place exactly where you would start it if the guide were there.  When you get the wrap to the point where you want to start wrapping the foot, you place the guide so that your next wraps will be well up the foot of the guide.  After you get about 5-10 wraps, carefully slide the guide into its final, desired position.  It's a little tricky, but with practice and the right shaped guide foot it works fairly well.

Watched a video on YouTube about locking wraps so I am going to try that.

 

Thanks for all the advice it is helpful for a first time builder. 

 

Allen 

11 hours ago, Munkin said:

Watched a video on YouTube about locking wraps so I am going to try that.

 

Thanks for all the advice it is helpful for a first time builder. 

 

Allen 

I use locking wraps on all my single foot guides, the little ones because their feet are so small and the high ones because they are easily snagged on stuff.  They really do provide extra resistance to damage.  And when you get practiced, they are a piece of cake.

11 hours ago, MickD said:

I use locking wraps on all my single foot guides, the little ones because their feet are so small and the high ones because they are easily snagged on stuff.  They really do provide extra resistance to damage.  And when you get practiced, they are a piece of cake.

I go back and forth on this. I use a lot of Fuji K guides and the loop shedding braces don’t leave enough neck. Careful attention to wrap tension seems to avoid pullouts, at least so far. Also makes the finish want to ride up and clog the guides. 

I guess I havn't noticed wrap or epoxy problems on KB's and KT's down to 4 mm.  Now that you mention it I probably will.  :-)