Ive been using cheap acrylic hobby paints because of availability currently and not wanting to waste good paint as i learn to make hardbaits. They look ok, but ive had a problem with peeling afterwards. I am applying d2t to them before and after, but some of them peel even before i get to that process. Obviously one answer is to get into createx. Id like to play with what i have more though. Do i need to heatset the baits and if so, best method.

Yeah, cheap hobby paint isn't great but I never liked Createx paints either. I use Vallejo, Reaper, and a little bit of Citadel for acrylics. My preferred primer is Badger Stynylrez but for impact strength the Vallejo Mecha primer series is also excellent. Regular Vallejo primer, not so much.

 

If you're getting peeling, that sounds like it's possibly an adhesion problem with the surface or a curing problem. Are you washing the surface with warm soapy water before priming? What kind of primer are you using? What are you using to thin your paints?

Started with water, now using windex for thinning. I am just using white or black opaque for priming. I have not been washing before priming. That is first thing i will try. Got alot of sawdust flying around.

19 minutes ago, Bdnoble84 said:

Started with water, now using windex for thinning. I am just using white or black opaque for priming. I have not been washing before priming. That is first thing i will try. Got alot of sawdust flying around.

Surface prep is very important, especially if there's any kind of mold release agent on the body. Also try to avoid handling the bait with your bare hands as the oils from your skin may interfere with adhesion. 

 

Using distilled water is also preferred in case your tap water doesn't play well with the paint. I stopped using Windex as a thinner because it was giving me inconsistent results and tends to give me worse tip dry than other methods. A 10:1 mixture of distilled water and isopropyl alcohol with a trace amount of liquid glycerin (or dish soap) makes an excellent DIY thinner. Or you can get Vallejo Thinner and Vallejo Flow Improver if you want great premade juices.

 

I encourage you to use an actual primer rather than just jumping straight to paint. Even a light coat from a rattle can will work fine. Often, the smoothness of the plastic won't have enough grip for the paint to stick to which would certainly help explain your peeling problem.

these are all carved wooden baits. Coatwith devcon beforehand then smooth it with 320grit. Still prime over just using opaque. I do think alot of my problem is the thinner rate the more i think anout it. I have alcohol so i will try that method, didnt realize i could use dishsoAp. 

I usually mix up a 5-10oz bottle of thinner at a time in a bottle and add a drop or two of soap just to break the surface tension.

 

Side note, not cheap, but the Vallejo Metal Colors line puts all other acrylic metallic paints to shame:

 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012A94O64/ref=psdcmw_2236131011_t3_B012A93HZS

Saw those, right now i just want to perfect actions and develop some painting skills with what i got. I ever get to selling custom baits, that will be a consideration.

47 minutes ago, Bdnoble84 said:

Saw those, right now i just want to perfect actions and develop some painting skills with what i got. I ever get to selling custom baits, that will be a consideration.

Right on. Look forward to seeing your work on here! Good luck!

 

 

I use plaid and craft smart paints all the time with actually really good success. I would recommend using a commercial thinner (that’s what in do).  I made my own cleaner/flush from water, wyndex, alcohol, and glycerin but I feel more confident using something made for thinning. Also, if you want one that doesn’t require thinning but is of the biggest quality, check out golden high flow acrylics. I use those for shading and detail work and they are kick ass. I’ve only been doing this for a couple months but it comes pretty easy. 

I see nondifference among water based paints regarding durability or adhesion. It will only last only as long as it’s covered with waterproof clearcoat and as long as water doesn't penetrate into it and make it expand, causing the finish to lift off the crankbait.  And I think it’s a good idea to heat dry them immediately after shooting them.  Note i say dry, not set.  You can set Createx on a T-shirt with 325 degree heat, a heat level that will ruin a crankbait paint job.  Less heat, say from a hair dryer, just dries the paint quickly.  I use Createx as a base palette of colors, augmented with a lot of acrylic latex taxidermy paints for special effects.  All of them are airbrush paints with small pigment particles that work through a brush without constant clogging, which can drive you nuts with cheap hobby paint sometimes.