Bdnoble84
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Everything posted by Bdnoble84
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My solution- #2 30 degree. also can do a 60deg 1/0 aberdeen. wormnose hook
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The issues with those is bearings arent sealed atleast thats my understanding so durability issues
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A-jay got the creative juices flowing for me so I made some inlines. In the past, i really struggled to get blades going on the smaller sizes. I deconstructed an old mepps #3 and weighed out the brass weights. I realized i’ve been overweighting them and they werent balanced properly to get the blade to spin easily. Reduced the weight and everyone of these start pretty easy.
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Forgot to add the blades. I will note the are a coat once thing. I tried adding a second coat and the alcohol in the marker caused the first coat to loosen up and streak faintly. Its really not noticeable unless the light hits them right, but not anything a fish would care about.
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I’ve been getting into coloring/painting lately and started using alcohol markers. I decided to color a couple cheap nickel blades. I am bery intrigued by the results. Once dry I cant scratch it off. No idea what will happen in water but compared to my efforts with acrylic this seems promising. I am going to clear them with uv and see what happens. I will update the thread with results.
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has anyone tried the 7’10” st croix black bass in mlxf? Im really tempted to get it for bombing hair but i dont really “need” it. Im wondering how true of a med lt it is and if it has any backbone at all or if it feels more like a whippy panfish rod. If not im thinking it would be a great rod for lindy rigging as well.
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Another suggestion… Tie Sparse. Les is more in most situations. It can be hard to keep them thin. I add multiple layers to comp Combat this
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Depends on what you are trying to do. If you are going marabou i go 1/16 to 1/8. For bucktail i have two different thoughts. For bucktail i will go with 1/16 to 1/8 when fishing shallow/ looking for a natural slow fall. For deeper than 10ft i am starting at 1/4 oz i will go heavier as conditions dictate or if i am snap jigging.
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Absolutely. Especially since you are running a #2 hook on the ones i sent you.
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You are going to need a good stick for those stupid tubes. I love my bassx 6’10 mlxf for throwing hair, ned etc. feel is really good to me. I would imagine going up tiers is going to provide an even better stick.
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Oh cool. I’ve just been rolling my own from .031 or .029
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Yeah, i find gate shears only cut half the sprue and twisting off to be the best. and i added an underspin wire to mine too. Are you bending your own wire or did you get prebent?
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This is probably one of my faves. 10 strands orange, 10 strands green pumpkin fish scale, 20 strands green pumpkin pepper, 6 strands of blue, 10 strands green pumpkin fish scale. i also do 1 thats 30 strands black 10 strands junebug, 10 strands blue. Good overcast jig play with it. Modify it how you want. Thats the best part about doing your own.
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That a modified walleye mold for the underspin?
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Yes, that is the one. I wondered since it has a similar rating to ml-xf rods i have owned. Not sure how great of a small crankin rod that would be considering i run down to size 8 hooks sometimes
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I see Lews has a Med Mod fast 7’2” rated 1/8 to 5/8. Does anyone have any experience with this rod or other medium-light and medium rods in the line. I want a soft light rod for whipping out light crankbaits a long ways. In particular shad rap/ berkley frenzy shad style baits. It is at the top of my price range also
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Yes its the walleye head. In a way yes just because its already coming to a point so if i just cut it with side cutters it will create a wedge. I prefer working them off with pliers then i hit em with a file. Im not really sure. A taxidermist gave it to me.
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If anyonecis interested in ties let me know
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Bear bair season is hear in northern IL (sub50 water temp) Unfortunately ive been busy and with temps looking to plummet probably not going to be getting to really hit it until spring.
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I dont know if its right but for a standard bait i1/4 to 3/8 i do 1.5” nead to bend and 2.5” bend to tailend. I shoot for the back blade to start roughly at the hook point. Thought being when a fish attacks the back blade he will be inline to get the hook. I fish smallies in current and stick with a 3/O hook though. Again just how i do it. I also stay on the smaller side with ss camo wire and dont fish a trailer often.
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Been in hardbait mode this fall. Flatsides are cedar. The two round squarebills are pine. I beleive the jerkbait is aspen because i weighted it for pine and it sank. I tweaked the weight and now it is a very slow rise. Action reminds me of an x-rap. the blue/chart tiger shad is getting eaten up by walleye and smallies.
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Walleye are starting to bite on the rock. This little cedar crank is doing work. Lost a couple smallies on it as well.
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You know you have a good proof of concept when they bite it before the paint
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You need to add bear hair to that cold water arsenal
