If I need to make the gap between the grip and butt on a cork split grip rod lime green, is there a better way than airbrushing paint on and then covering with rod finish? Or is that the best way?

I'm pretty sure you can use the Testors Gloss Enamel to do it. I bought 4 different colors of it from Get Bit about 3 months ago for $1.99 each. They have Lime and Fluorescent Green colors. The description says you can paint or marble your blank with it.

Just now, kayaking_kev said:

I'm pretty sure you can use the Testors Gloss Enamel to do it. I bought 4 different colors of it from Get Bit about 3 months ago for $1.99 each. They have Lime and Fluorescent Green colors. The description says you can paint or marble your blank with it.

I've got some Testors but my preference would be acrylic. Just wondering if there was a better option than painting.

2 minutes ago, Michigander said:

I've got some Testors but my preference would be acrylic. Just wondering if there was a better option than painting.

I was just at the dollar store last week and seen a bunch of acrylic paint there, not sure if that's what your wanting though.

24 minutes ago, kayaking_kev said:

I was just at the dollar store last week and seen a bunch of acrylic paint there, not sure if that's what your wanting though.

I've got several hundred bottles of acrylic paint already, that's why it's my preference, lol.

Just didn't know if there was like a solid color rod skin thing or a colored sleeve that was a better choice.

33 minutes ago, Michigander said:

I've got several hundred bottles of acrylic paint already, that's why it's my preference, lol.

Just didn't know if there was like a solid color rod skin thing or a colored sleeve that was a better choice.

ahh ok, I think I misread you're question, my bad.

 

I've only used the black carbon rod skin. One of the biggest pains I've had so far was dealing with rod skins and decals, until I got some UV resin for the edges and a good UV light to cure it with before applying finish.

 

btw though, can you use acrylic to marble with, that's what I was wondering when I seen in it at the dollar store, because it was taking them so long to ship my order.  

You can wrap and finish if it makes sense considering the gap length. You could add inlays or do a tiger wrap

9 hours ago, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

You can wrap and finish if it makes sense considering the gap length. You could add inlays or do a tiger wrap

Threadwork is definitely an option but for the area to cover which will probably be forward of the foregrip, I think paint is going to be better. Going to do a color gradient up to lime. Is the same finish I use for guides the proper stuff?

If you really want to paint, you can use citristrip to strip the area you want to paint. This will get you down to bare graphite. Then use automotive paint (uv protection and flex, not that the butt section will flex much). When the paint is dried, cover it with permagloss or cpxtra. I prefer cpxtra as it has a bit of a longer pot life. 

For a butt section I personally would follow all that up with a thin coat of epoxy. 

22 hours ago, Michigander said:

Threadwork is definitely an option but for the area to cover which will probably be forward of the foregrip, I think paint is going to be better. Going to do a color gradient up to lime. Is the same finish I use for guides the proper stuff?

If you go the decorative wrap route, yes, the same thread finish is used. 

I had a cork grip ruined when the dog - then a puppy - got at it. I ended up splitting the grip and wanted to paint, but I couldn't get the old epoxy level enough or filled enough to make it smooth to my satisfaction. I ended up thread wrapping and did a fish net.

This was a few years ago and was my first grip conversion. Really had a lot of fun doing to it!

12 hours ago, Lead Head said:

For a butt section I personally would follow all that up with a thin coat of epoxy. 

Why would you put epoxy over cpextra or Permagloss?  They are bullet proof and will not yellow with age as will epoxy.  Seems like a complication that adds no value, and actually costs a little due to yellowing potential.

Because for me, the permagloss has been less than bulletproof and its the butt section. Jury is still out on my experiences with cpxtra. I didn't suggest it was necessary, just that "if it were me". 

I'm still going through trial and error in all this stuff and was just sharing my thoughts. 

 

Many of you have been at this far longer than I have. I really appreciate when you question stuff like this and give your reasons why you would do it differently. It helps me learn more.

On 2/13/2021 at 9:44 PM, Michigander said:

I've got some Testors but my preference would be acrylic. Just wondering if there was a better option than painting.

I've never needed to do it but you can add pigment to epoxy. Then there is the FlexCoat rod finish that St. Croix uses. We know that works as well.