I've got a bunch of stuff to talk about so I figured I'd start a "everything" thread.  As far as I'm concerned anything related to fishing or boats in on topic in this thread.  Feel free to laugh at me for some of the stuff I post.  I've already laughed at myself.

 

In no particular order.

 

I'm eating a little bit of crow.  I found a braided line I actually kinda like.   I tried braid 30+ years ago in it's infancy and hated it.  I tried a couple brands recently and didn't like them either.  A friend/co worker insisted I try Sufix 832.  I kept saying "whatever".  He gave me a spool of it.  I like it OK.  I might even buy some for some other reels.   My "normal" like in Stren mono.   

 

What about line for spinning reels?  Every time (in my life) I've used a spinning reel the line eventually ends up being a twisted mess.  I don't use spinning equipment now, but my wife does.  He line ends up being the same twisted mess after 2 or 3 trips.   Is there some other line that resist the twist better?

 

Baitcast reels.  When I started back fishing I had 2 old Shimano reels and my really old Ambassador 5500C.  I still use the Ambassador for deep cranks, but replaced the Shimanos.  A friend (a different co worker) had a couple nice reels he tried but hated bait casters.  I got a Shimano Curado DC and a SLX DC from him for a deal.  I really liked them at first, but didn't "get" the whole DC thing.  I would adjust the tension knob (some people call it cast control) like I always did any other reel, and ended up with the DC on 1.   I could/can cast quite far, and rarely backlash.  However, I finally adjust the tension control like I was supposed to.  I loosened it until there was side to side play in the spool, then tightened it to just remove the play.  WOW.  With the DC set on "2" I can..... a mile.   With it on "4" I can cast against a wall, without a backlash..... it the wall is pretty close.  I use "4" for skipping stuff under docks.   I wanted 1 more reel so, at the suggestion of a friend I bought a Diawa Tatula SW TV.  (whatever that means).   It's.....OK.  I adjust the tension knob tight enough to just take side play out of the spool.  If I set the control on the other side below 8 or so I either get backlashes or have to thumb lightly during the beginning of the cast.  If I set it above 8 it's seems to put on brakes 1/2 way into the cast and sacrifices distance.  I don't have to thumb it at the end of the cast.  I'm not completely satisfied with it, but would recommend one to someone new to baitcasters as long as distance isn't going to be a problem.   FWIW my old Ambassador 5500c has the small weights.  I have to thumb it lightly toward the beginning and at the end of a cast.   I have to thumb my Shimano DC's at the end of the cast, except on 4.   

 

Trolling motors.  My boat came with a Minn Kota Edge, 45 pound.  45 pounds was sufficient, but I wanted anchor/spot lock.  Minn Kota (like the rest of the World) had supply issues so I couldn't get a Terrova at that time.  I bought a Powerdrive (55 pound-12 volt) and a "GPS" system from a 3rd party.  It worked great for a couple weeks, then the GPS started going crazy.  "They" had me do a firmware update.  It worked great again for a week, then started acting crazy again.  They sent me another unit.  It worked for a week, then went crazy again.  I ended up getting a refund from them.  "They" were great, but I didn't/don't have time to be their R&D department.   So....I found a Terrova, 12 volt 55 pound.  I love it.   I love the foot pedal, the remote and it works great.   I did fall in the lake a couple weeks ago stowing it.  (feel free to laugh, I did)  When you're stowing your trolling motor look around for waves from wake boats before you bend over.   I would have bought an Ulterra for the auto deploy/stow/trim if 1 was available in 12 volt.  I didn't want to buy another lithium battery.   

 

Batteries.  My boat came with a flooded lead acid group 24 cranking battery, and a flooded lead acid group 27 trolling motor battery.    If I was on the trolling motor for a while I'd have to use my jump box to start my engine.  (rarely any pumps or light, just 2 sonar units).  4 to 6 hours, especially after I got gps/anchor mode my 88 amp hour trolling motor battery would be done.   So, I bought a lithium battery for my trolling motor, and combined the group 24 and group 27  batteries for my cranking battery.  No more battery problems.  (I'm not here to promote any particular brand.  I will answer that question only if asked)  My battery has bluetooth.  I fished 11 hours, in the wind with both of my teenage grandsons.  At the end of the day my battery was at 46%.   I bought a 125 amp hour.  The battery company said 100 amp hour would be sufficient, but I like overkill.   When one of my lead acid batteries dies I'll go lithium for a cranking battery also.   

 

Other boats, other fishermen, ect.   I HATE wake boats......but most of the time the people in the wake boats are the nicest/friendliest people on the lake.   The pontoon guys seem friendly, but I suspect, at least around here that most of them are drunk.  Most fisherman are friendly but a small number of bass fishermen are the biggest jerks on the lake.  I think the jet ski people have a death wish.  I was going down the lake a few weeks ago at 35 mph.  A jet ski was making circles around me.   

 

 

So, laugh, cuss, whatever.  What are your thoughts on.....anything fishing or boating related?

With a spinning reel... I use braid on 5 of 6 rods, I use spinning equipment 95% of the time. I don't think I've ever dealt with a twisted mess, occasionally it get wrapped around the tip of the rod, but not from line twist. I do get line twist with mono, a lot. I think it may be something other then the spinning reel, or maybe they were/are really crappy reels.

 

 

I think your "essay" should be broken up into categories that can be addressed individually.

That's why we have specific sections for every topic. So, I will address your line issue here.

To minimize twist light braid as a mainlined and fluorocarbon leader. Specifically Seaguar

Smackdown #10 

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Seaguar_Smackdown_Braided_Line_Stealth_Gray/descpage-SMD.html

For the leader, Tatsu #6

https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Seaguar_Tatsu_Fluorocarbon_Line/descpage-STFL.html

Line twist:  If bad after 2-3 outings, something is way off.  I grew up with spinning.  Didn't know (started at 6 years old...didn't know at 16 either) I should be closing the bail by hand, but don't remember having that kind of problem.  Yes, there would be line twist eventually.

 

Does your wife continue to crank the handle when line isn't coming in, or when a fish is taking out line?  A definite no-no.  Some lures are much more prone to cause line twist than others.  I assume you know how to remove line twist.

 

What size line is she using?

 

Maybe I was using a much more expensive spinning reel....a Mitchell 300. 

Spinning reels twist line so they will eventually end up in a twisted mess.  The solution is to occasionally untwist the line. Remove the lure and let all the line out behind the boat as you troll slowly.   When it’s all out,  reel it back in.  Takes about a minute once you get the hang of it.  You can also walk the line out in the back yard if you have enough space.  With practice you’ll learn how to tell when a reel needs to be untwist before it ends up in a twisted mess.

 

How did you combine the two batteries into your cranking battery?  Are you running two different size batteries in parallel?

Thanks for the answers.  I shouldn't have asked a question in my post.  I just intended for this to be a rant, or talk about whatever you want to thread.   

One way to deal with line twist especially boating is on the way back in cut the lure and play 15-20 yd out behind the boat.  The water resistance will straight the line out.  Reel it in after a few mins under tension of your fingers and all should be well.

 

As a habit,  I always cut the leader off and replace each trip.

 

Also make sure your line roller is kept well lubed and check the bearings for any corrosion.

 

Spinners like meps, pather martin's, as well as spoons will cause increased line twist.