Tennessee Boy

The seller only has 6 reviews but 83% of them are 1 star.

I think you had a Freudian slip with the name. 😆

Couldn't agree more. Let consider just rain. Rain can increases dissolved oxygen, change the water turbidity, change the water temperature, increase the current, raise the water level, etc. How fish react to changes in their environment depends on a countless number of factors. To condense the secondary effects that weather potentially has on a fishery into concrete rules that an angler can use to catch more fish is impossible in my opinion. That said I'm sure there are plenty of people that think they have figured it out and would love to share their thoughts with you. You may be able to find local patterns that are repeatable when conditions are similar. Don't overestimate how repeatable these patterns are on other fisheries or at different times of the year.

Interesting thread. You didn't mention what type of motor it is. Is it an electric start? Do you start it with a key? Do you have a child that might try to crank the motor while you're working on it? My first boat would run if you disconnected the battery after starting it. I don't think most modern outboards will do that. It's always good to be safe especially if you're not sure about something. Personally, with my outboard I would turn the switch off and remove the key.

Thanks for posting that. Requiring a minimum gauge for a specific length of wire is reasonable since gauge, length of the wire and the amount of current determine the voltage drop in the wiring. All that matters is the voltage to the unit. I looked at the specs for the GLS10. It pulls a maximum 58 watts which is a lot. It also specifies that the required power input is 10-32 volts. There is no way the voltage will drop below 10 volts unless the battery is very low. Here's a good resource for determining wiring requirements. https://www.***.com/resources/1437

I would love to see the email you received from the Garmin tech. If the guy said they require 6 gauge wire for their electronics I would get confirmation from someone higher up. It's ridiculous. Also, they need to know if their techs are making up rules as they go.

The research did not find that the bass forgot after three months. It found that they remembered for 3 months. They didn't test beyond 3 months. One would assume that it's much harder to remember lures in the wild vs being in a tank. Bass in the wild see many different lures presented in many different ways and they have to eat to survive where the bass in the tank were given food to survive. My only point is we can't really answer your question about how long you should let a spot rest or if letting the spot rest even helps. We do know for certain that you won't catch any fish from the spot while you're letting it rest.

Perfect analogy. In his book Knowing Bass Dr Keith Jones shares some research he did with fish in a barrel. If my memory is correct, his research showed that fish still remembered lures after 3 months. So if your goal is to give the fish time to forget you will need to wait a long time. I agree with @WRB, catch em while you can. The only way to win on high pressure water is to out fish the competition.

Fish will fade as they move out of the center of the beam. When you throw to the center a fish might swim toward your bait which will be towards the center which will make them brighter. Remember the sonar beam gets wider further from the boat.

I'm not sure I'm following your thinking. You would have your motor connected to your cranking battery. You would have separate wires running from your cranking battery to the B side of the switch. You would have your house battery connected to the A side of the switch. The switch output would be connected to your fuse boxes which power all of your electronics and accessories. You would leave the switch on A so your house battery powers all this stuff. If your house battery fails then you would turn the switch to B so your cranking battery would power your accessories in addition to cranking your motor. I would not expect to change the switch very often if ever. You would still want a main breaker switch between the house battery and the switch. If you currently have a switch on your cranking battery then you would leave that in place.

I assume you're talking about a switch like the one in the link below. Yes it would work but selecting "All" effectively wires the two batteries in parallel. It's a bad idea to run a lithium and a AGM in parallel. It wouldn't hurt to do it for a couple of seconds while you switch but I would be concerned about accidentally leaving it that way so I would not use that switch. You could get a similar switch without the "All" option that would let you switch back to your cranking battery if your house battery fails. https://www.overtons.com/perko-battery-selector-switch-314474.html?objectID=314474&queryID=6821487e6d0f51ff587553d514d8c328&indexName=production_na01_campingworld_demandware_net__Overtons__products__default

Most batteries are not heated. You may be confusing "low temp protection" with a heated battery. Low temp protection just means it has an internal temperature sensor and if the temperature drops below freezing it will shut off charging. On Amazon the heated battery is $299 and the non heated battery is $239.

Personally, I would not hesitate to buy the LiTime battery. These batteries are pretty simple. They are all made with the same Chinese cells. Dakota spends more on advertising and seems to have bad reputation when it comes to service. Why pay $500 more for that? I'm not sure I would go with the heated battery unless you fish a lot in the winter and the temperature stays below freezing for days where you charge your batteries.

My thinking on this subject is pretty simple. Larger bass will eat anything at any time in any conditions but their preference is shad. If you want to fool one into hitting your lure your best bet is to throw what they are hunting for at the time. Most bass have a home range that they hunt in and they know where to find certain prey within that range. A bass suspended over 20 feet of water is not looking for a crawfish.

If it works for you then it's the right option. There is no other standard to judge by. As for the walleye label, that's a little more difficult. There are people who can convert a walleye rod into a bass rod. It involves a short ceremony, some incense and a new "Bass" label that is placed over the walleye label. 😆