As my eyes have been struggling a bit lately getting the teeny guides aligned has been a bit more of a struggle. Typically no big deal. Straighten everything after wrapping doing QC before epoxy. But the dang micro guides are my bain, lol. Is there a trick to adjusting them when locking wraps are used?  On 4.5 I have been doing 3 locking followed by 3 blocking.

 

Thanks

I get them as straight as possible when wrapping, then sight down the blank against a light background, with good light, and adjust.  Then apply CP, and after  it's dry, I sight again and adjust one final time.

 

A good way of getting them aligned right after wrapping is to sort of pinch the blank at a guide between my thumb and first finger, then slide my hand down the blank to the other guides and feel for an even touch on both finger/thumb.  Sounds sort of crude, but it strangely does a pretty good job.  

 

I don't think there are any gimmicks like laser that work better than the human eye.  

Thanks. Maybe I have too much tension. After the locking wraps I can adjust the foot end, but the eye end where the wraps is, well pun intended, locked.

I never use cp, just epoxy.  I’ll try sighting down the blank better ( in the wrapper) before the locking wraps. without the locking wraps or with the bigger guides it’s not a problem as it is readily apparent.  Or just get cataract surgery

I usually don't do the blocking wraps, just the locking loops over the ring. They are locked from being pulled out but less locked from being rotated into alignment. Try that.  Or just a couple blocking wraps.  And a little less tension?

15 hours ago, WC53 said:

Thanks. Maybe I have too much tension. After the locking wraps I can adjust the foot end, but the eye end where the wraps is, well pun intended, locked.

I never use cp, just epoxy.  I’ll try sighting down the blank better ( in the wrapper) before the locking wraps. without the locking wraps or with the bigger guides it’s not a problem as it is readily apparent.  Or just get cataract surgery

 

You can also sight them guides up in the wrapper if they are completely disappearing under the blank.  I check mine that they are perpendicular to the blank first, then do the guides underneath sighting to judge how much sticks out either side.  If I can't see the guide, it must be pretty close...

I'm still pretty new compared to these other guys, but I have always felt like just 2 locking wraps is enough. Any rough treatment capable of failing 2 locking wraps under epoxy, is likely enough to damage the guide. 

On 10/5/2022 at 7:59 PM, WC53 said:

... I have been doing 3 locking followed by 3 blocking.

I may be mis-reading this. But for me a locking wrap would also be a blocking wrap. Like this @ 2:30

 

You can do locking loops over the ring without doing blocking wraps.  I really doubt if the blocking wraps do anything more than the "blocking" that you get with the epoxy.

 

But as is almost everything on these forums, it's just an opinion without data.  I do have experience, though, and have never had a micro pull out using 3 locking loops and no blocking wraps.  

15 hours ago, MickD said:

You can do locking loops over the ring without doing blocking wraps.  I really doubt if the blocking wraps do anything more than the "blocking" that you get with the epoxy.

 

But as is almost everything on these forums, it's just an opinion without data.  I do have experience, though, and have never had a micro pull out using 3 locking loops and no blocking wraps.  

I agree....for that matter...I've never had a guide pull out with just a regular wrap (no  blocking or locking).

On 10/5/2022 at 9:20 PM, MickD said:

I get them as straight as possible when wrapping, then sight down the blank against a light background, with good light, and adjust.  Then apply CP, and after  it's dry, I sight again and adjust one final time.

 

A good way of getting them aligned right after wrapping is to sort of pinch the blank at a guide between my thumb and first finger, then slide my hand down the blank to the other guides and feel for an even touch on both finger/thumb.  Sounds sort of crude, but it strangely does a pretty good job.  

 

I don't think there are any gimmicks like laser that work better than the human eye.  

Thanks Mick. I backed of my tension a bit and that helps. I sight along the blank before starting the locking wrap. This minimizes the later tweaking. Seems to be working better unlike my cold front epoxy applications, lol, the trials and tribulations of a downsized space.

 

Changing topics. Micro sizes for casting, 30lb to 30 leader. Size 5 or 5.5?  I still want to run Double feet down the blank, but trying new to me things.

 

Thanks!

Depends on the knot you use, 30 leader can lead to a big knot in some cases. I would go 5.5, doubt if you could ever tell the difference in sensitivity or response time.  I suggest the Alberto knot with an added safety-after tying it according to all the instructions, take the braid tag end and make two overhand knots tightly snugged up to prevent unravelling.  Ever been able to get a braid wind knot untangled after it's been pulled tightly?  That's the principal in the two added braid knots.

Normally do FG at home and Alberto on the water. Been toying with the slim beauty lately as I use it for fly leaders.  Regular and Uni version.

 

I have a few KW 5’s laying around and was looking at them trying to decide if I should step up to 5.5.  

The specific guide may influence your decision too. A 5 with a thing ceramic ring will have a bigger hole than a 5.5 with a thicker ceramic ring. Like mick said, we’re splitting hairs here and if you already have something I’d try it and go from there. 

I can get 40lb 832 to a 25lb sunline sniper leader through a fuji 5 without issue. I'm still using the simplified GT for leaders. I'm not sure how those lines compare to what you're using though. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On casting, usually 20-30lb prospec or 832 to a 20-30lb leader. Otherwise 8-10lb 832 to leaders

 

thanks for the update