Chris Catignani

This is a little besides the point, but Spencer brought up the Super Glue. I been using this new glue from J-B Weld called SuperWeld. Its a UV light activated glue (not a resin) that is clear with a 2800 PSI strength. Its also a slow cure if you dont use the attached UV light. I been using this for eyes on jigs and plastics.

I couldn't agree more... I have some rods (like for flipping) were I have an open hook keeper. What I've been running into lately is this: Seems like the majority of the rods I'm using today are similar in set up. Shimano Curado, seven foot-ish rod, medium power - fast action...I start to use them interchangeably. I mean, I originally set out with a specific technique for a rod...then decide I like it for something else better.

I wanted to clarify that comment above. The "125 degrees" was going counterclockwise. Clockwise it would be at 225 degrees...just a little off center to the left.

This is the way.

This year I built the lightest jerkbait rod MHX CB841 with 3-4 inches off the butt. A week ago it broke on a cast...not a clean break either. Im guessing I nicked it on the boat jerking. I was gonna send it back as warrenty and hated the thought of cutting it up. I had made a carbon handle for it that was sweet. So I decided to try and repair it with internal and external stints (from an old Lews Speed Stick). It worked out pretty well. I never considered keeping the rod straight when making these kinds of repair....cause it now has a small bend. I took it out yesterday and caught a couple fish on it.

The rod looks great. The Japanese have a concept "wabi-sabi"...it centers on beauty in imperfection.

This whole story is just nuts...

Yup...you certainly can...but up to a point. I would contend that you can build yourself a rod that would be better (and way less expensive) than any rod you could buy commercially.

OK...I see Brian Latimer do this and also has a line of rods with a longer foregrip. There are a few techniques that would be good for a tip heavy rod...but that's another discussion all together.

A couple of comments about your goals: #2: Measure using the metric system...I know, I know..."Its not American." Well, "Au contraire!" Fuji (Anglers Resource) and MudHole...etc...etc all have guide placement systems. They all overlook that fact that the first guide from the handle (aka Stripper, Butt guide) needs to be a certain distance. I like to start with 51cm (close to 20"). They have also, all published mistakes. So measure twice, wrap once. Another tip about guides: Buy the guide kits. I can't tell you how much time I've wasted hunting down the rights size, color, quantity. #3: Try not to worry so much about balance. Holding a reel in your hand does very little to reduce weight forward or backwards. Today blanks are also WAY lighter than the ones of yesteryear. If you make your rod as light as you can...then you've done all you can do. #4: "it feels bulky in diameter". If its cork...then just sand it down.

I would start out with 800 or 400. But also...it is winter and the hands are dry....try getting your hands wet and see how it feels. I would hate to be the one to help you destroy a rod. Before you do anything...let others chime in.

You could alway sand the handle and remove some of that finish. But yeah...not a fan of that type of handle. I do make my own ...but there not slick...much more texture. You could also just try a couple wraps/stripes of electric tape. I've make a ton of Tennessee handles with Texalium tube and graphite tube. Though they were slick...you never noticed because the reels (spinning) were taped on.

Jim...I'm with you on the Boron. I had one I made into a Slider rod with a Tennessee handle and a Cardinal 3....and lost it off the back of the boat.😭 I also like Fenwick Feralite.

Good stuff Jim. I get envious when I hear the old guys talk about Dale's book, Rod Crafters magazine...etc. I would have loved to have had that stuff when I started. The only thing I had was knowing a bunch of local people who built rods. I know that more people today are building rods than ever before....but, back in the day you could walk into just about any tackle shop and buy a blank...at least in middle Tennessee you could.

Let us know what you think about it. Also...did you mean a Shimano Zodias?

If I was using that tape....and the edge comes up like in the video... I would use (smear) a dab of UV resin on the edge so it doesn't come up when you apply finish. This is something I do with fiberglass mesh tape when I use it for an arbor.

Solid advice....18 karat. @MontanaBasser If you do this and still want the alcohol burner...I will send you mine.

I lost my trailer lock recently (left on the bumper). I decided to upgraded the locks to the trailer with locks from Pacific Lock (made in USA). One thing I liked about these are the keying options: key different, key alike, master keyed, grandmaster keyey. This shrouded couple lock: (whick has a wire to attach so you dont lose it) And this hitch pin lock:

I missed this very sad new earlier. He loved BR...and will live in his posts here for many years to come.

Love the Lami's.

Didnt get a name either.

Mr. Bailey was not wearing a life jacket. ...and it was foggy.

Dale Hollow Lake, July 8th 1955.

Mike...take this advice with a grain of salt. Look for some kind of guide kit. I can't tell you how many hours I've wasted looking at guides and finding that they are out of this size or that color. The LZR guides are great. I pretty much use Alconite in these kits: Fuji KL Spinning guide kits Fuji KLW Casting guide kits

Yes and no. It's more like thread without color preserver. You wouldn't be able to find an end and then unwrap it. You would need to cut the tape and finish off the guide foot and peel it off.