Chris Catignani

A shout out to @MickD. Check out Bill Falconer's podcast Mastering Rod Building. This particular episode is about true natural frequency with Mick Danek. True Natural Frequency: An Additional Tool for Better Defining Rod Performance

Im always baffled when I see peoples wrapping rooms with big displays of thread...I guess I dont go through it fast enough. Sometimes I will inherit a spool of thread and you can see the difference when you peel of the top layer.

Not that this really matters, but it's kind of a good to know. UV does not make the finish yellow...oxygen does. What the UV does do is create what is called a "free radical" from the molecular structure. Oxygen then bonds with this free radical. When you hear about "UV inhibiters/absorbers" the manufactures are really talking about compounds they add that will bond with free radicals. Nothing in epoxy will stop UV light from penetrating and dulling what is underneath the finish. This is pretty much what is happening with epoxies we buy over the counter.

I was just checking... On ctsfishing.com you can buy the 2oz for $15 US. Mudhole sells the same amount of FlexCoat for $12.69 US. I also see that there is a newer formula NOTE: November 2023 – new mixing ratios By WEIGHT: CrystalCoat™ ratio is 3:2 (resin:hardener) By VOLUME: CrystalCoat™ ratio is 4:3 (resin:hardener)

I put the mix cup on the scale and weigh it...then I add 4 grams of resin and three grams or hardener. It's only slightly easier/faster by a few minutes.

What's up group...it's been a minute. I haven't been absent but just lurking. 2025 marks 50 years of rodbuilding for me. I wanted to mention my experience with CTS Crystal Coat. It's not a 50:50 mix. It's 4:3 (resign:hardner) and its by weight. At first, I thought measuring it by weight was going to be a hassle but it's really no more of a problem than using the syringes. The one downside is it take considerably longer to setup (vs FlexCoat, ProKote). I would keep it on the rod dryer for 6 hours or more. Now...One thing that it does have going for that other don't is how clear the hardener stays. The picture below is some finish I bought at ICRBE in Feb of 2024.

As was The Wetter the Better.. Mick...I always felt like U40 covered cork was slippery when wet initially...and it would go away after a few days of uuse.

OK...that handle is just sick as (all get out)!

I have been using U-40 since it came out. Lately I been using a product called Kelly's Cork Renew. Kelly's Cork Renew It applies similar to U-40 but its a little more viscus. It does a better job of protecting the cork. One thing I noticed is that once it drys it had a bit of tackiness to it....which went away after a few days. So...for someone who uses lots of cork on rods...If I had to pick...it would be Kelly

I been using the guide foot adhesive for a long time. If you stand directly over the top of the rod you can get it dead center almost every time. I will heat the guide foot...and rub the adhesive on the bottom of the foot. I will then reheat the guide foot before I place it. You can actually move it a bit once its wrapped. The guide foot adhesive is nothing other than the white hot-melt glue. One stick is virtually a lifetime supply.

Spencer...OK...I see what your talking about...the OD may not expand like one would think.

Electric tape. "EVA does not expand without also thinning " Spencer...Did you look at the picture? We're talking about 1 mm. How would anyone be able to tell the difference once its glued together?

This is a method I've come to refine over the years. First I will put a small dot where the guides will go. Then I will use the FlexCoat guide adhesive and align the first butt guide to align with the reel seat. I put the guide foot on the dot so I dont have to remove it. I will then eye ball the guide weather its centered or not. I first eyeball the guide on the wrapper looking down on the guide from above. I will then eyeball the guided looking down the blank. Its' way better to be looking out a window or against a white wall. I find it really works well to hold the blank at an angle so you see the blank in the ring of each guide. If its not centered I may remove it and redo it. The guide foot adhesive come off real easy and you just need to reheat the foot. Sometime i just leave it an move it after I wrap it. I will then wrap that guided. ...then on to the next guide.

Since its EVA...you could wrap some tape around the blank and make the EVA expand...it wouldnt take much.

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My hats off to the people who actually have the data and the science behind their claims.

There is a company called RodTeck that is selling a carbon tape along with a UV resin. Fishing Rod Repair Kit | Fishing Rod Guide Repair Kits – RodTeck It seems like a good idea...but, and I have been using UV resin (on other stuff) for a while now, UV resin is nowhere near the strength of epoxy.

OK...got it. I spoke too hastily....and apologize for the harsh tone.

Yeah...yeah...yeah. I've seen that picture before on another forum about 15 years ago. I wonder why people are still using thread? Spencer...that picture proves nothing.

I think the thread and the epoxy finish work hand in hand...much in the same way that fiberglass and resin do. Finish or thread alone will fail after a short time.

That singing is what makes fish come up to the top!🤣

I've built a few rods on SS guides the last couple years...I would consider REC's on a rod.

I like to do this on the butt end of a split grip (3 maybe 4 rings). Burl is heavier...but the extra weight on the end can help usually. I will also use burl on the foregrip of say a crank bait rod or spinner bait rod. Rod where I will do so serious chuggin.

As for finish (inexpensive)...you can buy a 6gram pack of ProKote for $3.89 from MudHole. ProKöte Rod Building Thread Finish (mudhole.com)