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The latest build thread...


Logan S

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Anyone want to get in on a 'your latest build' thread?  If not it'll die out with just me I guess :D.

 

I actually have a couple since I finished my first rod earlier in the fall.  I knew I made a mistake starting out with a 'nice' rod for my first build so I decided to build rods for my kids as a way to practice.  Both are CRB Color Series 5'6" and I outfitted them with a basic CRB guide kit and EVA handles with matching shrink wrap.  I let the kids pick out their colors and then used my wife's Cricut machine to make name labels for each of them.  They look pretty good from far away, but are far from good up close :D.  Was a good learning experience and they will fish just fine, the kids are excited either way.  

 

Learned a few more lessons with these builds...Most importantly that I was using way too much finish on the guides at first, by the time I finished the 2nd one I was getting much better at it.  

 

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After these, I got back into making my own rods...To be continued... :) 

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Next up...I had been wanting a rod specifically for cold water cranking...Flatsides, balsa baits, shad raps, etc.  I decided to try out the MHX-CB841 and I think it's going to fit the bill very well.  I used a 9" Fuji full cork handle and dressed it up with a carbon hood and silver trim.  Used Alconite guides, a #8 and then 5's all the way out.  I went 1 size bigger because this is going to be a rod I use thru the winter, hoping to reduce icing.  

 

I'm very impressed with the blank, with a Tatula 80 it just floats in my hand, I should get it out on the water here shortly to really see how it handles.  For the CCS nerds like me, it has an IP of 300g and an AA of 70 degrees.  

 

I screwed up the label a little bit, just going too fast...Another lesson learned.  

 

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Feel like I'm starting to get the hang of it on this build.  

 

General purpose spinning rod, one that will be on deck almost every time I hit the water so I splurged and went with the Point Blank PB701MLF (thanks for the info on it Mick :)).  Went with a standard cork split grip, downlocking VSS seat and the same carbon nut and silver trim.  I used the alconite Fuji K concept guides down to #5 runners to pass leader knots.  I got much better at my labels and thread finish on this build.  

 

This blank feels incredible in hand now that it's built, it's going to be hard to stay away from more Point Blank's.  I could easily see building up 2 or 3 more of this identical rod eventually.  This rod has an IP of 570 (per PB spec and my own measurement) and an AA of 77 degrees.  So even though PB calls it a ML, its really a Medium power IMO.

 

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Next up, I'm almost finished with a Point Blank jerkbait rod and have a jig blank and a chatterbait blank on in the queue....I'd like to get at least these and 1 or 2 more built before tournament season starts up so more to come :).  

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My rod geek C473MHXS Sea foam green rod showed up yesterday 2 weeks a head of schedule. This is probable the nicest rod/blank I’ve handled.  Soft tip but, a lot of back bone.  It was a suggestion from user Delaware valley tackle.  I have a set of cbr LZR guides for it.  I am going to order a set of mandrels for grips and the reel seat  tommrow. This will be a wacky rig rod and heavier tube rod, shad rap, other light cranks rod and possibly jerk baits 

 

I will need to find a new spinning reel for it.  My $50 legalis isn’t going to cut it.  I may put my abu premier on it I dunno yet.  I’m undecided if I’ll get a 3500 size or stay with 3000 size 

 

I also orderd another deep cranking rod for the one I made and broke last fall.  This is coming from rod geeks and is a fiber glass SG79HM 7'9"Heavy moderate 12-25 lb 1/2 - 2 oz in metallic blue.  
 

busy couple of weeks of building rod on top of my ice rod builds 

 

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Needed a utility medium heavy plastics rod so I acid wrapped a mhx mb863xf. This was the first time I've built with carbon fiber grips! 

 

I also have a spinning rod for jerkbaits on the turner now.1438269035_received_5786031903570193.thumb.jpeg.52bcc813e06aef5ca5d03fdec871771a.jpeg

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On 2/3/2023 at 10:44 AM, Logan S said:

I've been eying that C473MHXS myself for a while, I'm interested to see how it turns out for you.  

I think it would also make for a good t-rig or light jig rod say 1/4-1/2 oz.  
 

I believe it’s going to very good with tube and wacky rigs as a spinning reel 

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On 2/3/2023 at 7:51 PM, KCFinesse said:

Needed a utility medium heavy plastics rod so I acid wrapped a mhx mb863xf. This was the first time I've built with carbon fiber grips! 

 

I also have a spinning rod for jerkbaits on the turner now.1438269035_received_5786031903570193.thumb.jpeg.52bcc813e06aef5ca5d03fdec871771a.jpeg

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Carbon fiber grips look interesting.  How do they feel? I don’t even know how they would feel.  They look like they would feel hard.  Is carbon hard are they soft like Eva. 

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18 minutes ago, Mbirdsley said:

Carbon fiber grips look interesting.  How do they feel? I don’t even know how they would feel.  They look like they would feel hard.  Is carbon hard are they soft like Eva. 

 

They feel solid- definitely more firm than EVA or cork. I generally like the feel of bigger burl cork grips and was surprised that the carbon fiber grips were somewhat velvety like a good burl grip.

 

I used the NFC grips on this rod- they took several months to ship and the trim around the carbon fiber was all EVA that I replaced with burl cork. 

 

-Jared

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NFC has two types of carbon fiber, the regular which are very firm but nice in my opinion.  Just how soft does cork feel?  The fact is it doesn't feel soft at all.  The other type of grip they offer is "soft touch" carbon fiber.  I have not tried them, but a builder I highly respect uses them all the time and loves them.  

 

The biggest factors in the ergonomics of grips are their shapes and their sizes.  Most use grips/seats that are too small.  Especially on spin.  I never use size 16 spin seats any more.

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6 hours ago, MickD said:

The biggest factors in the ergonomics of grips are their shapes and their sizes.  Most use grips/seats that are too small.  Especially on spin.  I never use size 16 spin seats any more.

 

I mostly use the amtack aeros on my personal spinning rods, but I also have a few TVS seats to change up my ergonomics (almost the complete opposite as the aero). I usually turn my own grips and leave them really 'knobby'. After a few surgeries it just feels nice. 

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My latest is a 6'8" Rainforrest Immortal blank with Minima guides, an Areo seat and Winn grips that I've had around for a while.  I wanted to try a longer worm spinning rod with a fast action instead of the extra fast 6'2" I've been using for a few years.  After using it for a couple of months I prefer the older extra fast action one.  The longer rod casts a lot longer with the same reel.

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Finished up the jerkbait rod the other day.  Point Blank 6'9" M/XF, 9" Fuji full cork with silver and carbon trim, alconite guides. 

 

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The logo/spec decals are my frustration right now, seems like no matter how careful I am, the edges are too visible or the finish eats up the decal adhesive and peels it up slightly.  I've been applying a light coat of finish and letting it set, then putting the decal on carefully, and putting another coat of finish on top.  For the next rod I am going to try using color preserver to try to seal the edges before the final coat of finish...Unsure whether to put decal direct on blank or on top of a 1st coat of finish...Advice welcome :)

 

I picked up a Bushido CB72/12-25 to use as a chatterbait rod, it's currently on the dryer almost finished.  I'm a little disappointed because after measuring CCS on it, it's essentially a Medium power (600g IP) and not the MH to H blank I anticipated with it's 1/2 to 1.5oz rating.  It's still a nice rod, but will probably be used for something other than my first choice for it.  

 

I've got a Point Blank 7' MH/F next up, have the handle done and will be wrapping the guides soon. 

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11 minutes ago, Logan S said:

I've been applying a light coat of finish and letting it set, then putting the decal on carefully, and putting another coat of finish on top.  For the next rod I am going to try using color preserver to try to seal the edges before the final coat of finish...Unsure whether to put decal direct on blank or on top of a 1st coat of finish...Advice welcome 

 

I have always like the "lifted" look of a decal on one (or two even) coats of finish. You could try and burnish the ends down pretty good...I would do this on a finished blank (not matte)...or a blank with epoxy finish thats set up for a few days. 

 

Personally I just take it for what it is and go with...either that of just leave off the sticker. I have been making my own water slide decals with some success.

 

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1 hour ago, Logan S said:

  For the next rod I am going to try using color preserver to try to seal the edges before the final coat of finish...Unsure whether to put decal direct on blank or on top of a 1st coat of finish...Advice welcome :)

 

I picked up a Bushido CB72/12-25 to use as a chatterbait rod, it's currently on the dryer almost finished.  I'm a little disappointed because after measuring CCS on it, it's essentially a Medium power (600g IP) and not the MH to H blank I anticipated with it's 1/2 to 1.5oz rating.  It's still a nice rod, but will probably be used for something other than my first choice for it.  

Bummer on the Bushido! I love the cb series but I've never had my hands on the 'heavy' one...

 

As far as labels are concerned, I prefer placing them over a good finish and using a bit of CP. Also- life is too short for bad labels. I've gone to decal connection when I want to add a label a lot lately. Their labels just seem to go down better, and having a front and back plastic 'backer' really allows for burnishing the heck out of it.

 

-Jared

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Got the Bushido finished up.  I'm thinking that this will make for a nice lipless crank and large topwater rod...As opposed to chatterbaits that was the original intention.  It's definitely not a Heavy power, more like a Medium+ with a nice mod-fast action.  We'll see though, all that could change once I get to actually fish with it and try both applications, might be a case of the real world being different from specs.  Either way, it should fit the bill nicely for at least one of those applications :)

 

I was able to mostly save the decal by letting the finish harden without trying to 'fix' it prematurely, then gently filing down the raised portion of finish that popped up on the decal edge and applying a thicker coat of finish on top of everything.  It came out nice and smooth, you can still tell the edge is there, but only if you're looking up close.  It's my own rod so no big deal.  

 

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The fixed decal - Not too bad...

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On 2/12/2023 at 5:46 PM, Logan S said:

The logo/spec decals are my frustration right now, seems like no matter how careful I am, the edges are too visible or the finish eats up the decal adhesive and peels it up slightly.  I've been applying a light coat of finish and letting it set, then putting the decal on carefully, and putting another coat of finish on top.  For the next rod I am going to try using color preserver to try to seal the edges before the final coat of finish...Unsure whether to put decal direct on blank or on top of a 1st coat of finish...Advice welcome

This is a common problem.  I think the cause is that the epoxy takes so long to cure that it has time to work under the edges.  Here is what I do and it works.  Place the decal (many recommend a sub coat of epoxy, good advice for ridged blanks, but I don't do it on smooth blanks) and with the backing paper placed over the decal to protect it, burnish it aggressively, especially hard on the edges.  Use your smooth burnishing tool or something like a permanent marker housing).  Put a light coat of color preservative over the edges.  Just a little will be enough, and it will disappear.  After it dries overnight apply your epoxy.  Some put CP over the whole decal, your choice.  

 

I cannot get your photo links to work, why not just attach a .jpg to your comment in the provided box.  You might have to resize it if it's a big file.

On 2/12/2023 at 7:55 PM, KCFinesse said:

I'm a little disappointed because after measuring CCS on it, it's essentially a Medium power (600g IP) and not the MH to H blank I anticipated with it's 1/2 to 1.5oz rating. 

Yup, another reason to go with Point Blank.  American Tackle isn't the worst source for this problem.  

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Thanks Mick, bummer about the pics not showing up...They show up OK for me, I'll try to add them manually.  I do drag and drop usually, maybe that's not the best way. 

 

EDIT - I went back and fixed the pictures, should be OK now.  

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So up date on my build.  Started working on the handles.  It’s going to be jet green and grey.  I finished up the lower end of it tonight. I stilll need to shape the forend.  Shout and thanks to MickD for the email of shaping Eva foam on a drill press.  The grey piece was a block of grey EVa foam.  
 

Just received the email today that my glass rod blank from rod geeks shipped.  Should have that in about 2 days. 
 

I try to incorporate somthing new with each build 

 

I shaped that grey block into a handle with a 80 grit sanding pad.  I need to get the right tool for that 

 

I may just do a full EVa grey handle with the royal blue glass rod.  
 

Money saving tip.  Those are alps mandrels.  However, Harbor freight sells a 7 pack of the collars that come in different sizes for like 7 bucks.  I bought my little saw from harbor freight also.  I was surprised to see both there 

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So I ended up redoing my handle.  Wasn’t really happy with it.  Here is the new EVa handle.  I like it better.  I’ve got about 8 hours total into this handle. With the shaping included on the first one I build.  Now I need to cut and shape the for grip.  
 

my 7ft9 rod geek glass deep cranking rod 1-2 oz came in.  It is dark blue.  I’ve been buying and hoarding  different colored blue thread figuring out the perfect ones for that build. 

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Like a few folks probably did, I jumped on the Stryker blank sale a few months ago. I built myself a new ned rod on a 6'9" drop shot blank and I'm pretty excited to try it out! Burl cork mini grips, match frame minima guides, and an aero seat!

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Handle assembly, real seat and forgrip are epoxied in place.  Guide train test with the 2 line method went good.  Did test cast and this thing casts amazing.  Probably the best casting spinning rod I’ve had.  Started wrapping.  I don’t know what wrap I’ll do for the hook keeper yet. I really like that aero-17 comfort seat, 

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Try this some time, mount that seat uplocking with either a custom made ramp off the front (cork/carbon fiber/EVA) or the EVA  piece available from Mudhole off the front.  In my opinion, it looks better and fishes better with the only hand contact being on the swell and the ramp off the front.  No threads contact.  Dry  assemble it to see if  you like it. 

 

One hook keeper I really like is to use a wire single foot fly guide (Alps XTCHSFGP size 2) .  Nice glossy black finish, unobtrusive, easy to use, can be bent to function like a drop shot keeper, placed at 180 degrees just off the front, no line catching on it.

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