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Chris Catignani

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  1. OH...very cool. Tell me...how was trying to line up the guides...this can be a pain even with the mesh.
  2. It seems like a good spot...until you start using the rod. Hate em in the split area. Again...couldn't agree more.
  3. Air Carbon guide wrap has been out for a bit and was wondering if anyone has any comments about the product. Are you using it? Do you love it...hate it? I personally haven't bought any and not really sure I have a need for it yet. Can't seem to really get behind it as a guide wrap but thinking there are other uses.
  4. This is a little besides the point, but Spencer brought up the Super Glue. I been using this new glue from J-B Weld called SuperWeld. Its a UV light activated glue (not a resin) that is clear with a 2800 PSI strength. Its also a slow cure if you dont use the attached UV light. I been using this for eyes on jigs and plastics.
  5. I couldn't agree more... I have some rods (like for flipping) were I have an open hook keeper. What I've been running into lately is this: Seems like the majority of the rods I'm using today are similar in set up. Shimano Curado, seven foot-ish rod, medium power - fast action...I start to use them interchangeably. I mean, I originally set out with a specific technique for a rod...then decide I like it for something else better.
  6. I wanted to clarify that comment above. The "125 degrees" was going counterclockwise. Clockwise it would be at 225 degrees...just a little off center to the left.
  7. This year I built the lightest jerkbait rod MHX CB841 with 3-4 inches off the butt. A week ago it broke on a cast...not a clean break either. Im guessing I nicked it on the boat jerking. I was gonna send it back as warrenty and hated the thought of cutting it up. I had made a carbon handle for it that was sweet. So I decided to try and repair it with internal and external stints (from an old Lews Speed Stick). It worked out pretty well. I never considered keeping the rod straight when making these kinds of repair....cause it now has a small bend. I took it out yesterday and caught a couple fish on it.
  8. The rod looks great. The Japanese have a concept "wabi-sabi"...it centers on beauty in imperfection.
  9. This whole story is just nuts...
  10. Yup...you certainly can...but up to a point. I would contend that you can build yourself a rod that would be better (and way less expensive) than any rod you could buy commercially.
  11. OK...I see Brian Latimer do this and also has a line of rods with a longer foregrip. There are a few techniques that would be good for a tip heavy rod...but that's another discussion all together.
  12. A couple of comments about your goals: #2: Measure using the metric system...I know, I know..."Its not American." Well, "Au contraire!" Fuji (Anglers Resource) and MudHole...etc...etc all have guide placement systems. They all overlook that fact that the first guide from the handle (aka Stripper, Butt guide) needs to be a certain distance. I like to start with 51cm (close to 20"). They have also, all published mistakes. So measure twice, wrap once. Another tip about guides: Buy the guide kits. I can't tell you how much time I've wasted hunting down the rights size, color, quantity. #3: Try not to worry so much about balance. Holding a reel in your hand does very little to reduce weight forward or backwards. Today blanks are also WAY lighter than the ones of yesteryear. If you make your rod as light as you can...then you've done all you can do. #4: "it feels bulky in diameter". If its cork...then just sand it down.
  13. I would start out with 800 or 400. But also...it is winter and the hands are dry....try getting your hands wet and see how it feels. I would hate to be the one to help you destroy a rod. Before you do anything...let others chime in.
  14. You could alway sand the handle and remove some of that finish. But yeah...not a fan of that type of handle. I do make my own ...but there not slick...much more texture. You could also just try a couple wraps/stripes of electric tape. I've make a ton of Tennessee handles with Texalium tube and graphite tube. Though they were slick...you never noticed because the reels (spinning) were taped on.

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