Chris Catignani Posted February 20, 2023 Share Posted February 20, 2023 14 hours ago, Mbirdsley said: Handle assembly, real seat and forgrip are epoxied in place. Guide train test with the 2 line method went good. Did test cast and this thing casts amazing. Probably the best casting spinning rod I’ve had. Started wrapping. I don’t know what wrap I’ll do for the hook keeper yet. I really like that aero-17 comfort seat, Looks great! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeK Posted February 21, 2023 Share Posted February 21, 2023 Grips for three in work . . . MHX MB812XF spin for shallow water redfish will use Sea Guide SS guides MHX NEPS81MLXF spin for weightless plastics for bass with American Pentalite black titanium guides Batson ETES610MXF spin also for weightless plastics for bass using CRB SSR guides 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbirdsley Posted February 21, 2023 Share Posted February 21, 2023 On 2/14/2023 at 10:37 AM, Logan S said: Got the Bushido finished up. I'm thinking that this will make for a nice lipless crank and large topwater rod...As opposed to chatterbaits that was the original intention. It's definitely not a Heavy power, more like a Medium+ with a nice mod-fast action. We'll see though, all that could change once I get to actually fish with it and try both applications, might be a case of the real world being different from specs. Either way, it should fit the bill nicely for at least one of those applications I was able to mostly save the decal by letting the finish harden without trying to 'fix' it prematurely, then gently filing down the raised portion of finish that popped up on the decal edge and applying a thicker coat of finish on top of everything. It came out nice and smooth, you can still tell the edge is there, but only if you're looking up close. It's my own rod so no big deal. The fixed decal - Not too bad... They never sent me a sticker when I built my Bushido. I think that’s the same rod blank I built last year untill I broke it. It was 3/4-1 1/2 oz I think 7ft4 or 7ft6. Only reason I didn’t buy it again is because I wanna throw 2 oz cranks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHTR20 Posted February 23, 2023 Share Posted February 23, 2023 On 2/15/2023 at 4:27 AM, Mbirdsley said: So up date on my build. Started working on the handles. It’s going to be jet green and grey. I finished up the lower end of it tonight. I stilll need to shape the forend. Shout and thanks to MickD for the email of shaping Eva foam on a drill press. The grey piece was a block of grey EVa foam. Just received the email today that my glass rod blank from rod geeks shipped. Should have that in about 2 days. I try to incorporate somthing new with each build I shaped that grey block into a handle with a 80 grit sanding pad. I need to get the right tool for that I may just do a full EVa grey handle with the royal blue glass rod. Money saving tip. Those are alps mandrels. However, Harbor freight sells a 7 pack of the collars that come in different sizes for like 7 bucks. I bought my little saw from harbor freight also. I was surprised to see both there Never thought of using my drill press to shape handles, thanks for the pics! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbirdsley Posted February 24, 2023 Share Posted February 24, 2023 4 hours ago, JHTR20 said: Never thought of using my drill press to shape handles, thanks for the pics! I can’t take credit for that. MickD is the one that sent me the email attachment on how to do that 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan S Posted February 25, 2023 Author Share Posted February 25, 2023 Hitting the lake this weekend so finally rigged some of my builds up for real... I finished my jig rod on the PB701MHF, its on the deck rigged up in the pic. I think I'll try to strip and redo the label on the shallow crank rods at some point to fit in closer with my personal style for my rods (it was one of my firsts). I've also got 2 more drying right now that I'll throw in the boat to test out. Both MHX Mag Bass models...An MB873 that will get chatterbait duty. I've seen elsewhere this blank reported to have an IP of around 750g but when I measured mine it came out to 825g...And I'm actually happy about that since I like a heavier power rod for bladed jigs. The other is an MB842 that I trimmed to 6'9" for poppers...But I'll be a while before topwater time for me so I'll fling it around this weekend with some flukes or swimbaits. I think I've turned a corner on my labels too, I tried using color preserver to seal it before the finish and it turned out really well without any fuss. I think I need to build at least one more spinning rod before April to really be set for the season and I'm leaning toward another PB701MLF. Been a busy winter getting into this...When I decided to start doing this I sold off 12 or 13 of my Megabass rods to fund the startup and first set of rods and I've just about burnt through that . 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wisconsin heat Posted February 26, 2023 Share Posted February 26, 2023 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbirdsley Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 Been really busy with my jig business doing walleye jigs recently but, finally had time to get my rod all wrapped up. After I post this I’ll put color preserver on and then tonight hopefully I’ll start putting epoxy on the wraps. those new lzr guides are really nice. Wish I would have bought the grey ones though Both of the differnt single inlays were a new wrapping technique I tried out. Worked pretty good 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User MickD Posted February 28, 2023 Super User Share Posted February 28, 2023 Looking good Michael. One thing I suggest you consider, any wraps longer than about 1/16-1/8 off the foot of the guide just add weight and slow the recovery speed of the blank. Especially near the tip. You can shorten the wraps without sacrificing anything in performance, will help performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbirdsley Posted February 28, 2023 Share Posted February 28, 2023 1 hour ago, MickD said: Looking good Michael. One thing I suggest you consider, any wraps longer than about 1/16-1/8 off the foot of the guide just add weight and slow the recovery speed of the blank. Especially near the tip. You can shorten the wraps without sacrificing anything in performance, will help performance. The one towards bottom are definitely longer because, I was trying to fit in that trim band. Im sure they will get shorter as time goes on and I do this more. I have found it’s really more about training your fingers and hands what to do more than anything This little gadget was definitely worth the 8 bucks from mud hole. This is the first rod I’ve used it on but, works well for extra support down at the tip end. Wil be good for ice rods too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User MickD Posted March 1, 2023 Super User Share Posted March 1, 2023 Yes, the tips and ice rods are tough. I don't even do ice rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeK Posted March 2, 2023 Share Posted March 2, 2023 ETES610MXF balances tip up with guides and Daiwa Procyon 2500 Gudebrod Royal Blue Electra metallic for guide wraps 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbirdsley Posted March 7, 2023 Share Posted March 7, 2023 So it’s officially done. I’m happy with it. Learned how to make a handle rather than making it from a handle kit. Learned how to do inlays and feel fairly confident in that wrap. It’s not perfect but, casts amazing. next up when I get some time is the 7ft8 glass rod from tackle geeks. I want to a fade wrap on that one. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeK Posted March 7, 2023 Share Posted March 7, 2023 If you like that reel seat mock one up with threads to the back and the front grip going into the inlet. Moves the reel forward a little with the same length rear grip and keeps fingers off threads. See how it feels. I use the American Tackle version with the hidden thread hood if I want downlocking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbirdsley Posted March 8, 2023 Share Posted March 8, 2023 9 hours ago, MikeK said: If you like that reel seat mock one up with threads to the back and the front grip going into the inlet. Moves the reel forward a little with the same length rear grip and keeps fingers off threads. See how it feels. I use the American Tackle version with the hidden thread hood if I want downlocking. I guess I would have to see that done to see how it looks. I’m just trying to wrap my head around it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeK Posted March 8, 2023 Share Posted March 8, 2023 Top two are uplocking, bottom one is downlocking with hidden thread hood and cork. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PressuredFishing Posted March 8, 2023 Share Posted March 8, 2023 On 2/19/2023 at 4:46 PM, KCFinesse said: Like a few folks probably did, I jumped on the Stryker blank sale a few months ago. I built myself a new ned rod on a 6'9" drop shot blank and I'm pretty excited to try it out! Burl cork mini grips, match frame minima guides, and an aero seat! That reel Seay reminds me of my lamiglass reel seat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbirdsley Posted March 15, 2023 Share Posted March 15, 2023 On 3/8/2023 at 9:30 AM, MikeK said: Top two are uplocking, bottom one is downlocking with hidden thread hood and cork. Ok I see it now. Thanks that looks cool Next project started. This is my rod geek dark blue glass 7ft8 heavy deep cranking rod 1-2oz. I’m on a EVA kick since I’ve learned how to shape it. Next build I’ll probably go back to cork. im using fugi ecs-17 real seat, crb guides that I salvaged off my broken Bushido deep cranking build from last year. The Eva handle and matching butt is a dark blue and black camo. I’m going to try using some A size thread. I’ve got pro wrap colorfast cfs-A 434, pro wrap blue Electra metallic and color fast grey 813 I think I’m going to use as an under wrap for the hook keeper. I don’t know if I’ll take the easy way out and just put a black for grip on it or shape one from the left over EVa stick that I have 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Logan S Posted March 16, 2023 Author Share Posted March 16, 2023 Got to fish a few times with all the rods I've built so far, very happy with all of them. I think the Point Blank 7'MH/F is the most impressive of the group, it's an amazing jig rod...Power and action are perfect and the sensitivity, balance, and overall feel are the best I've ever used for how I fish a jig (lots of skipping and casting). The Point Blank 7'ML/F is also impressive but I think it's just a little more powerful than I prefer for what I built it for originally, hence the 2 builds below which are slightly lighter in power. I'll use the 7'ML/F for heavier shakeyheads and tubes. I finished two PB691MLXF spinning rods the other day. Still learning with every build, my decal troubles are behind me I think ever since I started sealing the edges with color preserver before finish. I also snagged two NFC Delta Hybrid CB blanks, the 705 and 706, to try for squarebill, lipless, and chatterbaits since they were having one of their big sales...Hopefully they don't take forever to get here, I've heard NFC shipping is questionable at best. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbirdsley Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 I have the handle assembly epoxied to the blank. In the future, I see that I can buy a cheap chuck to put into a hand held drill. I’d like to shape up the section where the butt meats the handle. It looks decent and is what it is as I don’t have a way to turn it while, it’s glued to the rod 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KCFinesse Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 14 hours ago, Mbirdsley said: I have the handle assembly epoxied to the blank. In the future, I see that I can buy a cheap chuck to put into a hand held drill. I’d like to shape up the section where the butt meats the handle. It looks decent and is what it is as I don’t have a way to turn it while, it’s glued to the rod That's what I do- once you hit that step, there isn't a whole lot of difference in turning your own grips. I'm a big fan of mixing up grips throughout the day and really nice chunky turned grips against the reel seat make more less hand fatigue (for me) when cranking and winding. Your work is looking sharp btw!!! -Jared Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbirdsley Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 5 hours ago, KCFinesse said: That's what I do- once you hit that step, there isn't a whole lot of difference in turning your own grips. I'm a big fan of mixing up grips throughout the day and really nice chunky turned grips against the reel seat make more less hand fatigue (for me) when cranking and winding. Your work is looking sharp btw!!! -Jared I turned the grips on my drill press with the exception of the butt knob . It’s just I had no way of sanding the butt knob into the rear grip. It’s fine just a glue seam is little uneven on either side. The rear grip measures right around .750 all the way down. the butt of of the blank is .620 i tried to get the OD of the rear grip to the exact shape on the butt knob which is the same color. Hard to do each separate piece when the EVa was a little out of round to begins with. if I chucked them into some sort of lathe I could have sanded them together while glued to the rod. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super User MickD Posted March 19, 2023 Super User Share Posted March 19, 2023 On 3/16/2023 at 10:55 AM, Logan S said: Got to fish a few times with all the rods I've built so far, very happy with all of them. I think the Point Blank 7'MH/F is the most impressive of the group, it's an amazing jig rod...Power and action are perfect and the sensitivity, balance, and overall feel are the best I've ever used for how I fish a jig (lots of skipping and casting). The Point Blank 7'ML/F is also impressive but I think it's just a little more powerful than I prefer for what I built it for originally, hence the 2 builds below which are slightly lighter in power. I'll use the 7'ML/F for heavier shakeyheads and tubes. I finished two PB691MLXF spinning rods the other day. Still learning with every build, my decal troubles are behind me I think ever since I started sealing the edges with color preserver before finish. I also snagged two NFC Delta Hybrid CB blanks, the 705 and 706, to try for squarebill, lipless, and chatterbaits since they were having one of their big sales...Hopefully they don't take forever to get here, I've heard NFC shipping is questionable at best. Very nice design and execution. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeK Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 "If I chucked them into some sort of lathe I could have sanded them together while glued to the rod." With a lathe and live center tailstock it is real easy to shape a butt cap on a short mandrel or piece of dowel. You are using a drill press so you should be able to rig something similar using a bearing in a block of wood for the base. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mbirdsley Posted March 20, 2023 Share Posted March 20, 2023 1 hour ago, MikeK said: "If I chucked them into some sort of lathe I could have sanded them together while glued to the rod." With a lathe and live center tailstock it is real easy to shape a butt cap on a short mandrel or piece of dowel. You are using a drill press so you should be able to rig something similar using a bearing in a block of wood for the base. Maybe if I put that little chuck into the bearing in the wood. Bottom the butt on the chuck, l clamp it on the butt just enough just to hold it. Use a dowel or mandrel the size of your rod. epoxy the 2 pieces together. I also had to make a tape arbor for the butt cap as it was .650 my blank OD was .629 at the butt section. I didn’t want to put a whole in the butt. I think shaping grips in the drill press is the best way. In this instance I wish I could chuck the rod just to fix that one part. I don’t know about turning the rod that fast. That could get exciting really quick. Eventually, I’ll probably build a rod lathe of some type. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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