Chris Catignani

A good rule of thumb for adjustments: If you back lash at the start of the cast - adjust the variable brake system. If you back lash at the end of the cast - adjust the friction control.

I have to say I use a bunch of TN handles...most are rods with 6 and 8 lb test. Actually got a drop shot rod I'm making that will have a TN handle. So...I been doin this a pretty good while and have a couple of improvements on the cork version. I like to use a graphite tube for where the reel goes...this does a couple things: 1: It is just a tad more sensitive. 2: Sometime with cork...the reel will actually deform the cork a bit...after a few "re tapes" some of the cork will pull out. Another thing I like to do is when I start the process of taping the reel seat on: I will cut two strips of fiberglass strapping tape (say three inches each). (this is the kind of tape used on boxes for shipping). One for each of the reel feet. Once thats on...then the electric tape. What the strapping tape does is secure the reel a little more. The electric tape (on occasion) can get a little loose on a very hot day so the strapping tape helps. As for how to electric tape...start in the middle...go to the end of the foot...then come back to the middle and go the the other foot...go to the end and come back to the middle. This is basically two layers. There is a rod in the back ground that a TN handle that also has the graphite tube.

I sorry to announce the passing of a fellow rod builder Paul (Coach) Bagby. Paul was one of the kindest people you could meet. I had the pleasure of meeting Paul on several occasions at various rod building events. Paul passed away on June 24th of this year...we will miss you Coach. Pauls Obituary

<at the weight in> "I got skunked today...but I caught a bunch of fish."

"A lure unfished...is an opportunity missed." ~me

Another option, if your a builder, is to strip the guides off for another build. Keep the broken blank parts to use for a future broken rod repair. Another thing I have done in the past is (with a broken baitcast rod) is to cut it off above the handle and just insert another blank. I only did this because I had a pro friend that had a bunch of broken rods...and I just happen to buy a load of Loomis GL2 blems for $8 each.

I only have these superstitions: 1: After launching ..start fishing at the ramp first. 2: Use the lures tied on from last trip...at least for a bit. 3: Retrieve all lost floats from the water. 4: Especially retrieve all lures. 5: Retrieve floating trash from water...to a point. These 5 superstitions are guaranteed good mojo on any lake.

As mentioned above...MudHole has X-Camo blanks. Its there IM6 graphite blank with a coated camo pattern that's durable...they also have matching grips and seats.

Both...but they usually just jump off at the boat.

I have a NOCO Genius 3 bank charger and I have to say that I felt like it was over doing it a bit. I say that because the batteries were needing more water than I thought...and I just attribute that to the charging cycle / maintenance charging. The NOCO was new and the batteries were new...and checked one day after about 3 or 4 trips and ended up puttin in a gallon of water. (now I may have done something goofy along the way...but Im usually pretty good with the battery thing) It says in the manual: It's not just a trickle charger; it's an advanced battery maintainer. A fully automatic, worry-free battery charger for everyday use - 24/7 - with zero overcharge. So...for now...Im keeping an eye on it and shutting it off when charged. I will add that I have the charger plugged in to a Sonoff flashed with Tasmota...this allows me to turn off that plug remotely.

BPHT 8 ring and 7 barrel. Actually you got me thinking and found it on eBay. New Fuji Vintage Black BPHT Aluminum Oxide Fishing Rod Tip Top Guide CHOOSE SIZE | eBay

One thing you could do is this just epoxy a larger diameter (snug fitting) stint over the existing ferrule. Say covering up the wrap there on the left....then you can fill the gap with epoxy. ...probably not making much sense!! Some what the same process MikeD posted about with the link by Ralf O'Quinn...I have used this technique about a dozen times.

One thing that comes to mind is having a reel with a specific (high) gear ratio. Say for fishing a buzz bait...something like 6.x:1.

Those of you that have been around a bit may remember these Fuji guide what have the glow in the dark shock rings. Im looking for a tip to put in this Fenwick Ferolite blank.

You can actually do this from MS Paint in Windows. Start Paint..click Paste ...then Paste from... Select your image. Press Resize...you will have to play around with the percentages...20% may be a good starting point. Then save is as a differnet name.

This not an opinion piece, but I'm just recount a chain of events that happened a few years back regarding the OP. First a little back story: The TWRA had been conducting research into the catch and release program from local tournaments. This research involved actual RF fish tagging. This at the time had only been done in Canada and the results there were fantastic survival rates. The results in Tennessee were eye-popping. A vast majority of fish over 5 lbs turned up dead when the water temp was above 70 degrees. I don't think anyone expect that...but fact is fact. In God we trust all others bring data. I was contacted by Bobby Wilson (then director of fisheries) to be part of a think tank and have a discussion about tournaments. A side from the fish survival problem...there were other issues about ramp access and overcrowding. This group of people were avid fishermen, guides and tournament directors. One thing that came up was to make ramps wider and make more parking. This was thought of as a good idea by everyone. When it came to the fish survival rate, I remember suggesting to one of the East Tennessee tournament directors that all the live wells should have a recycle/pump out/aerator pump. I stated a white paper from a Texas group on how this really increased the survival rate. I was told that not everyone has that much money to modify there live wells. I said, "Its a $20 pump!". I could see then that any kind of suggestions were not going to be seen in any kind of good light. One solution that got a little traction was to have tournaments over X amount of boats register that tournament with the state. With that data...people could log in and see what lake may be crowded and what ramp may be crowded. The state was going to do this and had a dev team working on the code. Then things got ugly. One of the members of the group was local guide Jim Duckwotrh. He started getting threatening messages left on windshield at the ramps. The group disbanded and that was the end of that.

A good rule of thumb is to... ...have 1 rod for every year you been fishing.

Thanks for sharing that link...Ralph O'Quinn is a legend. One of my original problems with PermGloss and foam brushes is that occasionally a piece of the foam would pull off...this is because the PermaGloss sets up so fast and gets tacky. I developed this process that has been pretty golden so far... 1. Pour a liberal about of PermaGloss in a bowl. 2. Take a basket-style coffee filter and a 2x2x2 piece of sponge. 3. Put the sponge in the middle of the filter and bring up the edges making a ball. 4. Dip the ball in the PermaGloss and coat your blank tip to butt. If its just a blank your refinishing...you can have it sitting in bottle while you apply. If you just doing the tread work...use a brush like other finishes

You probably used something like Gudebrod varnish. You could buy something like Perma Gloss (U40) and actually do the whole rod...thread and blank.