Chris Catignani

I'm a twisted looper...

I have to agree on the H vs MH... thats what I been using for 5/8 - 1oz spinner baits. If you dont like it...there are plenty of other baits to also throw on that rod.

HFF had a whole line of parts at ICRBE.

I think the term you're looking for is "centrifugal force"....and the answer is no. But if you use two...they should be antipodal.

Welcome

Check Amazon...search: red mica powder.

I get people who specifically want a decorative wrap...I tell em its extra...not silly.

One day I was up there and a guy who had on old Billy Westmorland map. It was color coded and marked up with banks that were good for spring, summer, fall and winter. I'm telling ya...the whole dang lake was marked.

The Caney Fork river (below Center Hill) is more of a trout river...cold water coming out of the bottom of Center Hill. You cant go wrong with Center Hill or Dale Hollow.

...just need eyes and finish.

This is an old spinner bait. It just helps keep them in position at all times. You dont really see line ties like this on spinner baits any more either.

This is just a refurbished bait. Bulkin up the body with two skirts and new swivel.

It bugs me to see people fishing below a tailrace without a lifejacket. In Tennessee: All boaters and passengers must wear a Coast Guard approved life jacket within the area designated and appropriately marked as a hazardous area below any dam and/or lock. Example (Granted...it doesn't look dangerous....but...those are famous last words):

I dont think more guides are better...but I think the length and action of the rod will determine how many guides you need. Typically you would want the line to follow the blank when its in a bent position and not create too large an angle from guide to guide. For example...in say a seven foot rod: For a medium action rod you may have the first 5 guides from the tip: 10,11,12,13,14 covering 60 cm. For an extra fast tip you may have the same 5 guides from the tip: 8,9,10,11,12 covering 50 cm. Eventually having 1 more guide for the extra fast rod...so it just depends....and not everyone looks at it the same. As for casting distance (friction) and sensitivity...some others may have a lot to say about that...I just take it as it is.

@spoonplugger1 I think @MickD is talking about the hoods. They can and will break when you overtighten them. I actually fixed one once by cutting a piece of a Coke can and glueing it back under the hood.

Glad you see that...most mistakes are unnoticed and inconsequential.

I've wrapped both ways (forward and backwards) over the ridges with no issues (using "D" thread). But...the one "kinda" issue I have is why have ridges in the first place? So many builders will pee and moan about saving weight on this and that part of a build...and then build on an unsanded blank. I get it from the manufacture's standpoint...they have completely cut out several steps. What am I missing?

In addition to @MickD 's suggestion.... Checkout the Fishing Hobby on YouTube...the tutorial are great. The Fishing Hobby - YouTube

I will cut the reel seat back where its just about flush with the hood. No foregrip. I will also grid down the triggers.

This is something I'm testing... Rainshadow E-Glass SPG843 American Tackle reel seat CRB LZR guide system Shimano SLX 151 6.3:1 ...square bill is one of mine.

Welcome neighbor!

Brian Latimer has a line of rods with large foregrips...just because he likes to just hold it there. I think you will see more and more of these (for bass) as people start to fish more "under the boat" using FFS. I make a crappie rod for pretty much the same reason.

I hear ya @MikeK...I have gone back to some of the shorter rods for Slider and other finesse baits. This is one of my favorite rods now. Its a Rainshadow CB66M with 6" cut off the butt. 10" Textalium Tennessee handle.