24 minutes ago, Further North said:

I'll go take a look at that.  The third battery for the bilge complicates things a bit - I don't want two chargers on board.

 

The wiring is to be determined.

The entire trolling motor and battery system will be removable for any trip with more than one person in the boat...which is most days on the water.

Wiring will drop down through the bow...

 

...then run under the raised floor to the rowing seat (the center seat in these pictures).

 

Batteries, motor, motor mount, and charger will come out when not needed, wiring will stay in the boat with some sort of easy connection on both ends - probably ring connectors on the batteries and a Minn Kota plug for the motor at the bow.

...but I'm always interested in other ideas.

Those pictures are from when the boat was new, it's had some modifications since then, but nothing that'll change how this system works.

 

 

 

In that case you have a blank slate to work from.  If you're taking everything out when not needed, then design the system that way.  A QR mount for the motor on the front is a known entity (I'd leave the mount on the boat).  Same with TM plugs.  You'll need to leave the female end of the plug mounted in the hull, the wire under the boat, and another plug or plug socked at the back end where the battery goes.  Not saying to buy this one, but as inspiration this is the old town battery box that is in my kayak.  Next to the battery box in the hull is the other side of the plug.  The rings stay on the battery all the time.  In my case, I put the charger connection to rings and they stay mounted and the box stays in the boat, but if you wanted to pull the battery every time its simple to unplug it from the hull and pull the box out.  If you're pulling the battery anyway, I'd just do the charging at home and outside of the boat.  You could still leave charger leads connected to the battery full time like I do and tuck them into the battery box when in the boat.

 

1 hour ago, casts_by_fly said:

A QR mount for the motor on the front is a known entity (I'd leave the mount on the boat). 

Anything that might get tangled in fly line will come out when the trolling motor is not on the boat.

 

The motor mount has to mount to the flat area, and come up high enough for the motor to deploy. It'll be in the way if anyone is up there fishing. 

 

I like that battery box, you said it's an Old Town product? 

1 hour ago, Further North said:

Anything that might get tangled in fly line will come out when the trolling motor is not on the boat.

 

The motor mount has to mount to the flat area, and come up high enough for the motor to deploy. It'll be in the way if anyone is up there fishing. 

 

I like that battery box, you said it's an Old Town product? 

 

Yes, that's the old town battery box for the autopilot boats.  It also has a built in 50-amp surge protector.  Its probably overpriced for what it is, but its a ready solution.  Some guys with autopilots don't like the plugs but I've not had a problem in 2 years.  If you're hard on equipment then maybe consider a beefier option.

38 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:

 

Yes, that's the old town battery box for the autopilot boats.  It also has a built in 50-amp surge protector.  Its probably overpriced for what it is, but its a ready solution.  Some guys with autopilots don't like the plugs but I've not had a problem in 2 years.  If you're hard on equipment then maybe consider a beefier option.

Thanks. 

 

I'm pretty easy on equipment, but there's not much in a drift boat that doesn't get used hard.

 

The connection to an Ulterra is critical,  they don't react well to power loss.

 

I'll check it out.

 

https://oldtowncanoe.johnsonoutdoors.com/accessories/fishing/battery-box

 

Looks like I'd need the other end of the connection that's probably wired into the boat.

5 hours ago, Further North said:

Thanks. 

 

I'm pretty easy on equipment, but there's not much in a drift boat that doesn't get used hard.

 

The connection to an Ulterra is critical,  they don't react well to power loss.

 

I'll check it out.

 

https://oldtowncanoe.johnsonoutdoors.com/accessories/fishing/battery-box

 

Looks like I'd need the other end of the connection that's probably wired into the boat.

correct.  That plug type is sold on its own I think and you could get the boat side receptacle. Then again, you could make your own copying that but with different plugs.