I see more and more instances of improved drop shot hook up percentage by moving to a longer straight shank hook T-Rigged either weedless or simply threading a worm on with the hook exposed out of the back of a soft plastic . Such a trend versus nose hooking a soft plastic using a traditional short shank drop shot hook by Owner , Gamakatsu , etc. The Owner Cover Shot , Gamakatsu G-Finesse Worm Hook and the Roboworm Rebarb Hook are examples of the longer hook shank trend for drop shotting bass . *Do you have a preference for a longer straight shank (T-Rig) versus a standard short shank drop shot specific hook (nose hooking)  for drop shotting ? ...Maybe you even use a light / medium wire offset worm hook for drop shotting ? Please share what you prefer - thanks !

Over the last several years, much of my drop shot fishing, especially mid-late season, has migrated to using 'bigger baits'; relative term.

 Where in previous deals I was using, the standard skinny 4 & 6 inch Sculpins, Robo worms & Dream Shots - and they catch bass for sure, I started drop shotting a baby rage craw, and then a full-size craw and then 4 & 5 inch Fluke and started getting bites from more bigger fish.  But along with that, I was losing a few fish, because the hooks & manner I was using them was apparently inefficient.  First off, in some instances, my hook selection was too small.  Secondly, while I like nose hooking, seems it's not the best way when I'm targeting bigger smallies - which is ALL The TIME pretty much.  Nose hooking also picks up eel grass when it's there and the little hooks have a tendency to skin hook a lot leading them to come unpinned too much for my liking.  

 I do Tex-pose my drop shot plastic when needed but all things being equal, I prefer not to if I can.

***Note *** regarding the Hooks Pictured - I use SEVERAL DIFFERENT sizes - I offered these to allow for the name, brand, type, and model number identification purposes.  

 So we've ventured into using a little bigger, longer shanked hook.  

 So if you look at the Picture provided, the bottom row - those are all GREAT DROP SHOT OPTIONS and ones I still use a ton; mostly for nose hooking.  

 That whole top row of hooks are what I go to for bigger baits and when I want to 'top hook' a bait; meaning inserting the hook like you would put say a swimbait on a jighead.  Where the hook goes in the front/nose of the bait, is threaded into & down the body of the bait BUT comes out the top.   Still a drop shot, but when a fluke or a caffeine shad is rigged like this, the hook up to land ratio goes way up.  Brownies are generally impaled in the top or the roof of the mouth and they generally Do NOT come off. 

   I definitely use a little 'beefier gear', like M instead of ML and 8-10 lb fluorocarbon leader instead of 4-6 lb. The bigger Hook size demands a bit more pressure to sink it successfully, but after that, it's just a matter to playing that brown tank into the net.

 This works GREAT for Green bass too. 

A-Jay

With a bigger bait or buried hook yes, with traditionally small and skinny drop shot plastics no. Might just be the hookset, it should be different, as in almost not at all in the former to a mild sweep on the latter.

I only use Gamakatsu EWG in #1 size.  I don’t nose hook.  I’ve caught 5lb smallmouth and largemouth and have never broken or straightened a hook.  

Owner #5133 size 2/0 for weedless rigging drop or slip shot worms and 4109 size 1 for nose hooked or wacky weedless or not for worms and Senko’s.

The 2 hooks cover everything I need.

Tom

I tried it, lost to many gis compared to classic nose hooking, often not enough gap when threading. 

 

 

Don’t run the hook through the center of the worm diameter.

Insert the hook to the barb ( about 3/16”) and rotate the hook point out the center of the worm head. Now run the hook point through the side of the worm body, not the center.

Pinch the worm body where you want the hook point inserted and skin hook the soft plastic.

What happens is the bass hooks itself when striking, you feel the pressure and reel set with a rod sweep.

Tom

1 hour ago, WRB said:

Don’t run the hook through the center of the worm diameter.

Insert the hook to the barb ( about 3/16”) and rotate the hook point out the center of the worm head. Now run the hook point through the side of the worm body, not the center.

Pinch the worm body where you want the hook point inserted and skin hook the soft plastic.

What happens is the bass hooks itself when striking, you feel the pressure and reel set with a rod sweep.

Tom

I can try that, might provide larger bite gap for fish, good idea 

Thanks A-Jay ... Here are a couple I will add as good candidates : https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Gamakatsu_G-Finesse_Worm_Light_Hook_w__Tin_Keeper_4pk/descpage-TIN.html . https://www.tacklewarehouse.com/Gamakatsu_Aaron_Martens_G-Finesse_Heavy_Cover_Hook/descpage-GFHC.html . The A-Mart G-Finesse Heavy Cover Hook perhaps more for a power shot set up or using say a Zoom Super Fluke rigged T-Rig weedless or a open hook set up rigged like a swimbait on a jig head .