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Cheapest spot lock motor for Kayak/SUP hybrid

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I am looking for a spot lock bow trolling motor for my inflatable SUP to help with wind/current. 
 

So far the cheapest option I am finding new is a minn kota powerdrive, but refurbished ones seem to go for only about 200 less for 1000-1100. Are there cheaper ways to get a spot lock motor bow motor for a kayak, and if so how/where? 

Solved by casts_by_fly

  • Super User

I don't know your boat, so grain of salt time.

 

The Motorguide Xi3 Kayak was the only game in town forever.  Basically an Xi3 with a short shaft designed for a kayak bow mount.  Then Motorguide was discontinued as a brand.

 

Minn Kota just released the kayak terrova and that is now the only factory option for a kayak based spotlock bowmount (36" shaft).  That's $1500.

 

Past that, you have the 54" shaft powerdrive at $1350.  That's way too long of a shaft for a kayak, not sure about an inflatable SUP.  You'd probably want to cut down the shaft, but that's a lot to cut down.

 

There is a powerdrive upgrade kit that is $300.  You buy the kit and replace the head unit with a GPS compatible one to get spotlock.  If you bought a new powerdrive 45" shaft for $800 and then replaced the head that would be $1100.  You could also look for a used powerdrive to do the same with.  I haven't checked marketplace but I suspect you could find one a good bit cheaper than retail from someone who upgraded.

 

There is also the autoboat system.  But that's over $700 to start from and only compatible with transom mount motors which may or may not be able to mounted to the front of your SUP.  Even then when you add a motor to it you're pushing up close to the powerdrive price with a hacked unit.  Just get the PD at that point.  

  • Author
23 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:

I don't know your boat, so grain of salt time.

 

The Motorguide Xi3 Kayak was the only game in town forever.  Basically an Xi3 with a short shaft designed for a kayak bow mount.  Then Motorguide was discontinued as a brand.

 

Minn Kota just released the kayak terrova and that is now the only factory option for a kayak based spotlock bowmount (36" shaft).  That's $1500.

 

Past that, you have the 54" shaft powerdrive at $1350.  That's way too long of a shaft for a kayak, not sure about an inflatable SUP.  You'd probably want to cut down the shaft, but that's a lot to cut down.

 

There is a powerdrive upgrade kit that is $300.  You buy the kit and replace the head unit with a GPS compatible one to get spotlock.  If you bought a new powerdrive 45" shaft for $800 and then replaced the head that would be $1100.  You could also look for a used powerdrive to do the same with.  I haven't checked marketplace but I suspect you could find one a good bit cheaper than retail from someone who upgraded.

 

There is also the autoboat system.  But that's over $700 to start from and only compatible with transom mount motors which may or may not be able to mounted to the front of your SUP.  Even then when you add a motor to it you're pushing up close to the powerdrive price with a hacked unit.  Just get the PD at that point.  

Thanks. If fully kitted out it looks like this-it does look like the bow mount on this picture is a motor guide to me.

 

I will have to check marketplace to see if I can find a deal. The problem like you said is shaft lengths on many are 55 or 70 inch. 

IMG_0055.jpeg

  • Super User

yeah, that looks like an xi3.  The terrova is the direct replacement for that, but isn't going to be cheap.  It would be a nice setup though.  Before I monkeyed with cutting down a PD I would just put the more money into it and get the terrova.  

  • Super User

I think that the tiny boat nation guys have cobbled together a kit that is very economical.  Or I dreamt it. 
 

they retrofit a regular unit.    I’d goggle it if I had time. edit!!  
 

they are bringing it to market!   AUTOBOAT SMART HEAD.  $750. Plus you have to add a standard trolling motor for $150 (Endura C2)

  • Author
2 hours ago, casts_by_fly said:

yeah, that looks like an xi3.  The terrova is the direct replacement for that, but isn't going to be cheap.  It would be a nice setup though.  Before I monkeyed with cutting down a PD I would just put the more money into it and get the terrova.  

Yea I might just get the terrova. It seems pretty sweet based on what I’ve been seeing today. I wouldn’t want to cut a shaft especially since some are composite. It would also probably void the warranty as well.  I’ve never had anything more than a $150 basic minn kits so I was t aware of what motors in general seem to cost.

1 hour ago, Darth-Baiter said:

I think that the tiny boat nation guys have cobbled together a kit that is very economical.  Or I dreamt it. 
 

they retrofit a regular unit.    I’d goggle it if I had time. edit!!  
 

they are bringing it to market!   AUTOBOAT SMART HEAD.  $750. Plus you have to add a standard trolling motor for $150 (Endura C2)

i saw that but it doesn’t seem to be available yet. It does look sweet though! 

 

  • Super User
7 hours ago, Darth-Baiter said:

I think that the tiny boat nation guys have cobbled together a kit that is very economical.  Or I dreamt it. 
 

they retrofit a regular unit.    I’d goggle it if I had time. edit!!  
 

they are bringing it to market!   AUTOBOAT SMART HEAD.  $750. Plus you have to add a standard trolling motor for $150 (Endura C2)

They had another auto boat add on item before also.  It might not have been the same brand but it was an add on motor kit that you controlled from your phone.  But again, once you add it to another trolling motor you’re already at $900.  And you are using a transom mount motor which limits your mounting options.  For not much more you can get into something designed for that from the factory.

  • Author
On 7/15/2025 at 7:31 PM, casts_by_fly said:

They had another auto boat add on item before also.  It might not have been the same brand but it was an add on motor kit that you controlled from your phone.  But again, once you add it to another trolling motor you’re already at $900.  And you are using a transom mount motor which limits your mounting options.  For not much more you can get into something designed for that from the factory.

 

one problem I am seeing is the installation looks super complicated.  Can’t I just hook it up to the battery once it’s mounted and be done? 

  • Super User
56 minutes ago, newyorktoiowa57 said:

one problem I am seeing is the installation looks super complicated.  Can’t I just hook it up to the battery once it’s mounted and be done? 

Long as you go through a fuse or circuit breaker, ya.

  • Super User

Looks like a market looking for a scaled down 35 lb kayak TM with SL!

Tom

PS, try calling the Trolling Motor Doctor in Long Beach California. 

 

  • Super User
  • Solution
6 hours ago, newyorktoiowa57 said:

 

one problem I am seeing is the installation looks super complicated.  Can’t I just hook it up to the battery once it’s mounted and be done? 

 

Yes, but you’re not going to like it.  If you bolt the trolling motor to the boat and hook it up directly to the battery (let’s say with crimped on O ring terminals) it will work just fine.  Until there is a problem.  You want a breaker of some type in case you have an overload. It is unlikely, but the motor is $1500.  You want to do as much as you can to protect it.  The kill switch is optional, but it is good safety practice.  I never got knocked out of my boat and if you’ll never wear the kill switch then don’t do it.  The QR plate for mounting it is also optional.  If you are never going to remove it then leave it there.  Plenty do.  The QR plate is a nice to have.  

  • Author
11 hours ago, casts_by_fly said:

 

Yes, but you’re not going to like it.  If you bolt the trolling motor to the boat and hook it up directly to the battery (let’s say with crimped on O ring terminals) it will work just fine.  Until there is a problem.  You want a breaker of some type in case you have an overload. It is unlikely, but the motor is $1500.  You want to do as much as you can to protect it.  The kill switch is optional, but it is good safety practice.  I never got knocked out of my boat and if you’ll never wear the kill switch then don’t do it.  The QR plate for mounting it is also optional.  If you are never going to remove it then leave it there.  Plenty do.  The QR plate is a nice to have.  

There is a local kayak shop that has the motor.  I am going to ask them how much additional  it would be to do an install. 

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