Just got my new Curado 150 M with the MGL Spool III. I was wondering what is the best setup to cast the farthest. I plan on turning down the brake control all the way down and leave the brake weight the way they are 3 on and 3 off. What do you think is the best adjustment. I am not sure about the brake weights

As low as you can go without backlashing

 

i typically run 3 on 3 off and adjust the dial depending on the lure im throwing. Wind and lure weight can affect that as well. Just gotta find where you are comfortable casting

My goodness. How about telling us more pertinent information. 

Two options- add some spool tension and turn the brakes down or lose all spool tension and add just enough brakes to control fluff.  Depends a little on the way you like to cast, the types of rods you’re using, and the lures you’re throwing.  If you’re using a fast recovery rate rod that is ‘jumpy’ and you’re also really zinging it quick then you’re going to want some brakes to control the initial fluff.  If you’re throwing heavier, aerodynamic baits on a more moderate actioned rod with a softer stroke then you need the brakes a little less and some spool tension might be more comfortable to cast.  

Braid, no spool tension and use baits that cast far.  It's a free casting reel. 

 

You can't force baits that cast poorly and rapidly slow down to cast farther with a free casting reel.  You'll have a terrible experience and the opposite of what you want.  You want to play off strengths and mitigate weaknesses work your reel, line and bait selection.

 

This means using a free casting reel with free flowing line to bomb baits that cast well and a reel with a more control oriented braking profile to cast stiff unruly large diameter plastic lines and baits that cast poorly.  An example of this would be using a Steez HLC (hyper long cast) with braid to bomb frogs or spooks and a Tatula 300 with heavy fluoro casting glide baits.  The heavy braking profile on the 300 is designed to reduce helicoptering of the bait on the cast.

All going to depend on what you are tossing out into the water.

 

Stop believing your wife, size DOES matter.

I have messed around with it and I had to add a good bit of brake control. I haven't thrown nothing heavy with it though. To be honest I am kind of disappointed. I thought it was going to throw further than my KVD baitcaster from the reviews I have seen from it.

2 minutes ago, Fishthunder said:

I have messed around with it and I had to add a good bit of brake control. I haven't thrown nothing heavy with it though. To be honest I am kind of disappointed. I thought it was going to throw further than my KVD baitcaster from the reviews I have seen from it.

 

How do you have it set up?  Brake blocks, brake dial, and spool tension.

 

You said 3 on 3 off for the brake blocks above, I'm assuming you kept that.  I find for my own reels, I am 4 on 2 off most of the time and then keep the dial turned down to a 2 or 3.  Then for spool tension I have zero.  Do you have spool tension on?

3 hours ago, Fishthunder said:

I have messed around with it and I had to add a good bit of brake control. I haven't thrown nothing heavy with it though. To be honest I am kind of disappointed. I thought it was going to throw further than my KVD baitcaster from the reviews I have seen from it.

The reel is simply another component of the outfit.  The rod you're using is just as important as the reel.  You could have a reel that has great distance casting, but if you put it on a broom stick its not going to perform as well.

I set the spool tension just until it eliminates any side to side play, then back it off just a hair so that there is juuuuuust a tiny amount of play in the spool. For the Curado 150 I have 2 brakes on, 4 off, with the external dial on 4.

8 hours ago, casts_by_fly said:

 

How do you have it set up?  Brake blocks, brake dial, and spool tension.

 

You said 3 on 3 off for the brake blocks above, I'm assuming you kept that.  I find for my own reels, I am 4 on 2 off most of the time and then keep the dial turned down to a 2 or 3.  Then for spool tension I have zero.  Do you have spool tension on?

I kept 3 on and 3 off. Spool tension is set just as loose as it takes my lures to fall. Not sure about dial amount

23 minutes ago, Fishthunder said:

I kept 3 on and 3 off. Spool tension is set just as loose as it takes my lures to fall. Not sure about dial amount

 

I would suggest that you can go lighter on spool tension, especially if the dial is fairly high like a 4+.  I read your statement as “if I tightened it a little more, the lure wouldn’t fall from the rod tip”.  If that is true, then you can back that off a good bit more, especially if your goal is maximum distance.

 

using spool tension where the lure just barely falls is a good way to learn to cast and a good way to cast ‘casually’ by which I mean a nice relaxed casting stroke that is smooth from start to finish.  A nice soft sidearm cast for instance.  The reason is that the spool tension is pretty constant through the cast so it is always grabbing the spool just a bit.  Brakes are better at controlling the spool speed when it is really spinning high RPMs.  The higher the RPMs, the more it pushes the brakes out and slows the spool.  If the spool isn’t spinning fast, then you don’t get much braking.  So in that case you control the spool with a bit of spool tension.  In your case, you’ve got a lot of spool tension so then you don’t need any or much brakes unless you’re really trying to whip it in which case you’re getting double braking at the start of the cast (brakes and spool tension) and then while the brakes let up through the cast the spool tension is sticking around and slowing you down.  I’d suggest backing off some spool tension and if you’re getting fluffing at the start of the cast turn the dial up some more.  

Yeah, loosen that spool tension back to how it came out of the box and use 4 brakes on with max on the external dial.  Lower the dial until you are happy with the casting results.  Shimano's Japanese instructions state to set the spool tension to just eliminate side to side play.

I'm going to give Shimano credit; these newer MGL spools are fast and good.

I tried the 4 brakes on 2 off and it was a disaster for me lol. Before I had to redo my spool it didn't help with distance. I am gonna keep trying though. I really need to work that dial though.

1 hour ago, Fishthunder said:

I tried the 4 brakes on 2 off and it was a disaster for me lol. Before I had to redo my spool it didn't help with distance. I am gonna keep trying though. I really need to work that dial though.

What line are you using?

On 9/4/2025 at 12:46 PM, PGA Dropout said:

I'm going to give Shimano credit; these newer MGL spools are fast and good.

Very good. 

47 minutes ago, Bigbox99 said:

What line are you using?

Yes. Pertinent information is needed to know how to help this person setting up a rod we also know nothing about. 
It's just important to know. 
I digress..

7 hours ago, Bigbox99 said:

What line are you using?

When I first started Berkley Trilene 100% Fluorocarbon Line Clear 20LB. Now I am using Sufix 832 Braided Line Lo-Vis Green 65LB

2 hours ago, Fishthunder said:

When I first started Berkley Trilene 100% Fluorocarbon Line Clear 20LB. Now I am using Sufix 832 Braided Line Lo-Vis Green 65LB

Stick with the braid.  20 pound flouro is nightmare to try and cast let alone bomb cast with.  

I got 4 on and 2 off working. Not sure if it has helped with distance. With 4 on you still have to adjust spool tension like I did before. The brake control is still set high though. The braid made a difference. Easier to fix bird nests and seems like I don’t get really bad bird nests.

9 minutes ago, Fishthunder said:

I got 4 on and 2 off working. Not sure if it has helped with distance. With 4 on you still have to adjust spool tension like I did before. The brake control is still set high though. The braid made a difference. Easier to fix bird nests and seems like I don’t get really bad bird nests.

As you get better with the casting mechanics and tracking the bait in flight you can start to back off on the spool tension.  You'll be able see the bait slow and apply thumb pressure instinctively.  I would still do the spool tension drop test but increase the fall rate of the drop just beyond your comfort zone.  Once adjusted to that keep backing it off for faster and faster drops and you adjust yourself to the faster and faster reel.  At some point you will find that you have zero spool tension. 

 

Shimano and other centrifugal brakes are very free at the end of the cast as the bait sails towards your target.  That's the appeal of that braking system over something like a Daiwa magnetic that will have more spool control at the end portion of the cast.  If you're not used to this or unprepared for this braking profile then continue to use spool tension to slow the spool down at the end of the cast but understand that you are giving up max distance to do this.

 

To get max distance you want free casting braking profile and a limp line, like braid, that can flow out of the reel at high speed.  To get that high speed you will need vey little or no spool tension and a braking profile that is free of restrictions at the end of the cast.  Spool tension is just compressing the incompressible spool shafts in the reel frame putting pressure on the metal shims in the side plates to form a crude mechanical brake.  Doing this will eventually cause the shims to dimple and lose the braking effect.  Is like driving around with your parking brake on because you have difficulty hill starting a manual.  It'll help but it will create its own problems and isn't even nessicary once you know how to hill start.

On 9/2/2025 at 6:55 PM, Fishthunder said:

Just got my new Curado 150 M with the MGL Spool III. I was wondering what is the best setup to cast the farthest.

If you want the best advice, then tell the group which rod you're using.

On 9/3/2025 at 12:07 PM, Fishthunder said:

I haven't thrown nothing heavy with it though.

Mention the baits you're currently throwing, meaning size and weight.

 

57 minutes ago, Fishthunder said:

The brake control is still set high though.

Clarify what you're calling the brake control. Are you referring to the numbered dial on the palm-side of the reel, or the spool tension knob on the handle-side?

On 9/9/2025 at 6:20 AM, Fishthunder said:

Now I am using Sufix 832 Braided Line Lo-Vis Green 65LB

If you're not throwing anything heavy, then 65lb braid is definitely hurting your max distance casting. For instance, the difference in max casting distance when throwing a weightless 5" stick worm between 30lb and 40lb braid is noticeable. As you increase lb test, therefore line diameter, your distance will suffer.

1 hour ago, Fishthunder said:

I got 4 on and 2 off working. Not sure if it has helped with distance. With 4 on you still have to adjust spool tension like I did before. The brake control is still set high though. The braid made a difference. Easier to fix bird nests and seems like I don’t get really bad bird nests.

 

What dial number are you set on for the brakes?

 

Getting out of 20# fluoro will be a big help.  Fluoro in general wants to spring off the spool, braid doesn't.

 

Are you getting overruns at the start or end of a cast?  If at the start, the up the brakes a little more.  if at the end, then use your thumb a little more (or add some spool tension).  

@PhishLI right. I’ve asked too and he won’t state anything. No wonder he can’t cast.. 

I feel everyone’s casting technique and skill level is different.  There is 0% chance that my settings will work for you.  
 

I go conservative and back off until it gets beyond my own personal levels.  
 

every reel I get, I follow my own thing.