A month or so ago I traded the stock 8" tires for 10" tire on my Malone Ecolight trailer and I'm really happy with that change. But I wanted to address a few additional problems with my travel setup. The first is traveling with my Yakima rod box on top of my Bronco Sport. The first problem is that it knocks 5 MPG off of my fuel mileage. That's not a big deal fishing locally, but often I travel 200 - 900 miles for tournaments.

 

That's where storage also comes into play. With the rod box on the roof I need to also pack a step stool so that I can access it. If I ditch the rod box altogether, the rods stretch into the cabin of my Bronco and between coolers, suitcases, kayak motor, and bins for tackle it gets crowded in there. I prefer to have some space to take a quick nap on really long trips.

 

My solution was a Haul Master truck rack from Harbor Freight. But while I solved the problems above, it created more. First off, the side pieces for the racks should run down the left and right sides of the trailer frame. Unfortunately, that's much too low to fit the kayak on the trailer. My solution was to mount  them on the crossbars. That spins the uprights 90 degrees and it means they will catch more wind. That makes me worry about flexing. I think the solution is to buy two more Malone crossbars and mount them perpendicular and on top of the current crossbars and mount the uprights to those. That would solve another issue I have.

 

That issue is that my 9" Garmin graph can't fit under the new crossbars. That means that I have to install that unit after I launch. Not impossible, but a pain nonetheless. What gets me was that it was only about 1/4". I measured before I bought the kit, but I was off a bit as it was hard to measure the kayak sitting on the bunks.

 

But there was another clearance issue with my BlackPak crate. Actually, it's the Shortstak upgrade that's the problem. With that additional storage on top of the Blackpak it won't under the new crossbars. Adios!

 

The next problem is my fishing rods when I launch. Normally when I stage in the parking lot I put my rods in their rod holders and launch. I can't do that with the new top crossbars, so I will have to lay them down in the kayak when I launch.

 

So, while not a total disaster, it's not what I wanted out of this project. I'm going to scrap it for now and then buy crossbars I can mount on the trailer fram on top of the current crossbars and perpendicular to those. That will give me the clearance I need for my Garmin and allow me to orient the track rack uprights in the correct direction. With them mounted a I have them below, I think they will catch too much wind and put a lot of tress on the clamps. It will work, I just need a bit more engineering.

 

 

 

 

Have you thought about getting a fabricator to weld up what you want instead of bolting and using premade parts? That way you can have exactly what you want with the stability you need.  That will be the best way to eliminate flexing. 

 

you could u-bolt whatever is fabricated to your existing galvanized trailer frame. If you’d ever need to unmount it that would make it very easy. 

1 hour ago, Susky River Rat said:

Have you thought about getting a fabricator to weld up what you want instead of bolting and using premade parts? That way you can have exactly what you want with the stability you need.  That will be the best way to eliminate flexing. 

 

you could u-bolt whatever is fabricated to your existing galvanized trailer frame. If you’d ever need to unmount it that would make it very easy. 

I did think about welding it or using epoxy. But the issue is that the supports are turned 90 degrees which means the unit loses rigidity when assembled and those posts will catch more wind. That causes greater shearing forces and reduces aerodynamics.

 

I need to think about it some more, but the best solution will be raising it 2” - 3” with square tubing as I mentioned.

 

Then again, I did go to a boat dealer yesterday. If interest rates come down, I may scrap the kayak altogether.

1 hour ago, Kayak Koz said:

Then again, I did go to a boat dealer yesterday. If interest rates come down, I may scrap the kayak altogether

That’s what I’m talking about!

 

I didn’t mean you weld what you did. I meant get something completely custom get it designed how you want. There would be gussets welded in no worry for flex and wind shear. 

@Susky River Rat is a welder if I'm not mistaken.  He speaks the truth on these things.

 

I also like the idea of scrapping the yak and going with a boat.

@gim yes sir. I have been doing fabrication and welding repairs for 17 years plus 2 years of schooling. Lately I have been doing lots of acid etching proving a good looking weld can mean 100% nothing as far as strength and penetration. 

5 hours ago, Kayak Koz said:

I need to think about it some more, but the best solution will be raising it 2” - 3” with square tubing as I mentioned.

 

 

Why couldn't the rod box that I see up top be moved to under the Kayak and eliminate all that rack above all together? It looks like the Kayak is already lifted up off the trailer frame. Making it high enough to put the rod box under the kayak might be another way to go? I see plenty of room there under the kayak.

 

What I see is bulkier and raised to above tow vehicle catching wind as noted. If you were to eliminate all of that upper framing and construct space under the kayak it would become a condensed package and stay low enough behind the tow vehicle and be more aerodynamic than it is now.

 

If you were to construct a deck on the trailer frame itself like a plywood or PVC expanded foam deck extended forward, and a raised deck above it for the kayak, then you could have a sealed up larger storage space below the kayak, and lockable as well, and the kayak would still be down low enough behind the tow vehicle to not present extra wind drag.

 

The kayak appears by eye now to be what 8" up off the trailer frame? Make it say 15" and have a storage space under the kayak for rod box and other gear.

 

If you were to do something like this, it is possible you could use the current framing I see there to do it. Just cut it down and do some rearranging of it.

 

I use Alro metals to source materials and start in the scrap bins for lowest priced pieces before going to new stock which is much higher priced. Any local metal distributor should have what you need.

 

Just flip that trailer idea upside down! The kayak would not be much higher than it is now judging from thickness of rod box.

 

 

 

Forgot to mention, but another idea is to lower the trailer frame on the suspension.

 

I can't really tell from your images, but is the axle on top of leaf springs or below? If below you can possibly move the axle to above the leaf springs and lower the overall height down slightly.

@FloridaFishinFool- having the rod box under the kayak isn’t going to go so well with a wet launch of the kayak…

 

@Kayak Koz- If you are going to stick with the kayak then a custom rack like susky says is going to be your best bet.  You can mock stuff up with bolts (look at  superstrut for instance) until you get the right layout and then take it to a welder to do it right. As for the design, having the rod locker where you do (or offset to a side) is going to be your best bet.  They are designed to run longways for air purposes.  As long as you keep it below the height of the bronco it shouldn’t impact.  Your kayak looks high on the trailer.  I don’t think you’re launching with the motor down are you?  If not, I’d try to get it a bit lower to buy you space.  If you only need 1/4” for the fish finder I’m sure you have enough play somewhere in the setup for that.  A shim or two might do it.

13 minutes ago, FloridaFishinFool said:

 

In looking at your images, I am curious if maybe a little rethinking would help out here?

 

Why couldn't the rod box that I see up top be moved to under the Kayak and eliminate all that rack above all together? It looks like the Kayak is already lifted up off the trailer frame. Making it high enough to put the rod box under the kayak might be another way to go? I see plenty of room there under the kayak.

 

What I see is bulkier and raised to above tow vehicle catching wind as noted. If you were to eliminate all of that and construct space under the kayak it would become a condensed package and stay low enough behind the tow vehicle.

 

If you were to construct a deck on the trailer frame itself like a plywood or PVC expanded foam deck, and a raised deck above it for the kayak, then you could have a sealed up larger storage space below the kayak, and lockable as well, and the kayak would still be down low enough behind the tow vehicle to not present extra wind drag.

 

Just an idea. I used to do metal fabrication myself professionally, and right now rebuilding a boat trailer doing custom metal fabrication at home replacing rusted crossmember so I can relate.

 

If you were to do something like this, it is possible you could use the current framing I see there to do it. Just cut it down and do some rearranging of it.

 

I use Alro metals to source materials and start in the scrap bins for lowest priced pieces before going to new stock which is much higher priced. Any local metal distributor should have what you need.

 

Just flip that trailer idea upside down! The kayak would not be much higher than it is now judging from thickness of rod box.

 

 

 

I had thought about that when I first got the rod box. But the rod box is too tall to fit under there. Even if it could slip in, you couldn't open the lid and the brackets to hold it in place on the crossbar are inside the lid.

 

As it stands right now, the rod box is lower then the roofline of the vehicle and although it is off center, it is still behind the vehicle and doesn't hang out and catch the wind.

 

Another option is to drill a few holes in the lower trailer crossbars and bolt on a 2x4 and mount the arms to that. I would get rid of the lower, clamped bracket and mount the columns directly. Actually, no matter how I do this I think I'll get rid of the clamps and bolt that bottom bracket directly.

 

I need to go take a look at things. 

19 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:

@FloridaFishinFool- having the rod box under the kayak isn’t going to go so well with a wet launch of the kayak…

 

 

Very true. I see people launch these by hand. I have not personally witnessed anyone ever backing a yak down into the water. So your suggestion is very true.

 

One more thing to mention to the OP here is trailer balance.

 

Have you ever witnessed a tow vehicle swaying back and forth as it drives down the highway pulling a boat? That happens because their trailer is not balanced well and too much forward weight on the ball joint is causing all that swaying which can be dangerous.

 

Your trailer and yak don't weigh all that much and may not be an issue, but when you get finished with it, you may want to check your trailer setup balance.

 

Don't quote me, but for your sized trailer setup and mine, I think the standard weight is between 5% to 7% overall weight of trailer on ball joint. Moving suspension and axle forwards or back on the frame is how that is adjusted. But as I said yours is almost nothing in weight and may not even be an issue.

 

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with.

5 minutes ago, casts_by_fly said:

@FloridaFishinFool- having the rod box under the kayak isn’t going to go so well with a wet launch of the kayak…

 

@Kayak Koz- If you are going to stick with the kayak then a custom rack like susky says is going to be your best bet.  You can mock stuff up with bolts (look at  superstrut for instance) until you get the right layout and then take it to a welder to do it right. As for the design, having the rod locker where you do (or offset to a side) is going to be your best bet.  They are designed to run longways for air purposes.  As long as you keep it below the height of the bronco it shouldn’t impact.  Your kayak looks high on the trailer.  I don’t think you’re launching with the motor down are you?  If not, I’d try to get it a bit lower to buy you space.  If you only need 1/4” for the fish finder I’m sure you have enough play somewhere in the setup for that.  A shim or two might do it.

I priced custom trailers. There's no way I'm paying $4k - $6k for a kayak trailer.

 

My kayak is a little high because I use carpeted bunks. They keep the kayak more sable when being transported and I'm not going to bash my transducer on the trailer frame.

 

Thinking more, I may be able to use steel perforated angle and mount the base directly to that and do away with the clamps.

4 minutes ago, FloridaFishinFool said:

 

Very true. I see people launch these by hand. I have not personally witnessed anyone ever backing a yak down into the water. So your suggestion is very true.

I water launch and retrieve. With all of the batteries, electronics, motor, and gear it's much too heavy to move around. Even with a cart, it would be a tough pull up a ramp.

 

I can get it in and out quicker than most boaters, so I'm not blocking the ramp.

@Kayak Koz- I didn’t mean a custom trailer. I meant mock up what you need with unistrut, try it locally a few trips, then go to a welder like susky suggested to make it permanent. I wouldn’t want to use unistrut for a 900 mile trip or for permanence but it would be fine for a couple shorter weekend trips to see that you like the setup and it works. A welder won’t be that much money and you’ll get what you want for a support rack that you know won’t move. 
 

@FloridaFishinFool- the base boat he’s using weighs 125#. Battery and electronics added will put it around 150. He leaves his crate in and other accessories. Not sure if the motor is in the boat laid down when launched or he keeps it separate but that’s another 25lb. All in that’s 200# to launch. You’re not doing that with out wet launching it. I would leave the battery and seat in mine, but that was about it and it was still tough getting it in and out of the truck bed.