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Dock Master

Tuning a baitcaster

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lately I have been getting a lot of backlashes.  I was wondering is there a certain way I should play with the brake and cast control to reduce my backlashes and keep me fishing longer?

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I am having the same trouble.  I have begun to find that to leave the knob on the right (the one that controls the drop) loose and use the magnetic break. This works for me somewhat.

 I have the knob loose and according to the weight of the lure 1 for jigs, 2 for lighter lures. Also the drag can't be too tight.

I like a med fast action rod for the really light lures.

My MH worm rod (as I call it) will not throw a light weight lure.

I reckon I'm saying it's more the rod than it is the reel ! imo

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At the top of this subject, (fishing rods,reels, line,leaders and knots) there is a section titled "Important topics".  Look for the thread titled "baitcasting casting problems".  Scroll down the first page and you will find a thread by Reel Mech titled:  Basic Baitcast reel setup 101.

It is a link to his instructions for setting up a baitcaster.  It will help you get all the bugs out of your reel and get you to casting like the rest of us.  No more backlashes, just "professional over-runs"  :).

And just in case you miss it.....one of the most important words in that whole set of instructions just happens to be....Practice, practice, practice.  

Another key helper that I use is a product called KVD Line and lure conditioner.  There is several threads on here about that stuff.  Use the search function and you will be sure to find it.

Shortbasser

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Today I found the perfect mix, a place were I could cast far and not get any backlashes, I completly unscrewed my spool tension nob, and put my brakes at about 5-6 not sure, (By the way I have a Quantum Tour Edition PT). I could cast with no overruns, as soon as i set it one break lower I would get an overrun. So my suggestion to you is go in your backyard and just practice and see where your limit is, your's could be brakes off tension off, it all depends on the person. Find what works best for you!

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Anyone who remembers the old televisions will recall they had a channel selector, and a "fine tuning" knob.  Usually with the channel selector in the center of the fine tuning ring.

Select the channel, then adjust the fine tuning for optimum performance.

The bearing tension knob is the channel selector.  It is set with the rod in free spool.  The setting will vary according to lure weight, but the process is the same.

With the rod horizontal to the ground, and the lure you plan to use attached, put the rod into free spool.  The lure should drop.  When it hits the ground, the spool should stop rotating.  The instructions I've seen say it should make no more than one revolution after the lure hits the ground.

I prefer less than that.  You'll have to tinker to find what is best for you.  The further you cast, the faster the rotation of the spool, and the longer it will take for the bearing tension to stop it.

Once you have that set,  you then fine tune with the centrifugal braking adjustment.

Again, this setting will vary for each fisherman.

If you find your optimum setting at either end of the centrifugal adjustment range,  make fine tweaks in your bearing tension adjuster, until your centrifugal adjustment is near the center.

This allows you to adjust for slight differences in baits, conditions (wind) or your casting, which will vary from day to day.

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with a centrifugal brake if the backlash starts at the front of the cast you need more centrifugal braking.if it starts in the middle you need more spool tension or thumb.the same applies for magnets except because of the different magnetic systems you may have more overlap throughout the cast between the spool tension and magnetic braking.

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I have used bait caster almost all my fishing life.. Ive never liked spinning reels and only use them when i have no choice. I set my spool tension as loose as i can get it to where the spool doesnt have side to side play.... and I use my mag breaking control by setting it to where I need it for that weight bait.... Most people will tell you setup your reels spool adjustment to where the lure you are throwing will slowly fall and stop with in 1/2 turn when it touchs the ground.. I dont like no tension on my spool at all.. I pay HIGH dollars to have reels cast as far as i need them to. when do I want to put big bucks in a reel to get better casting and then add spool tenision and go back to where ive started... Ive used BC's forever and i guess my thumb is trained so well I can cast like that I dont know. but anyhow try setting up your reel to have no tension on the spool but tight enough that it doesnt have side to side play and set your mag system to max and try to MAKE SMOOTH cast dont jurk the rod tip around as you cast till you get better... if your reel dont use mag breaks but uses the other breaking system set all your break to ON and learn that way... the reason I say this and I know A LOT of people will not agree with me on this... but if you learn to cast like that you will be able to cast ANY reel with ease Some times I cast with the reel in total free spool mag setting 0 when i really need distance for bass that are schooling 99% of people would have a total handful throwing a reel in total free spool when your throwing it as hard as you can for distance... Im glad I learned the way i did

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