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Craiger12

IMX vs GLX

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What are the differences between these two blanks aside from sensitivity? Which is stronger? Stiffer? Any input from those with experience with both would be great. Thanks.

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They are both top notch rods, the GLX is lighter and of course more sensitive, as far as stronger and stiffer they are about the same in my opinion. I have 11 GLX's and 2 Imx's as you can see I like the Glx's better but they are both great rods.

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Okay, I've been fishing a long time buty I am new to today's gear. I bought a GLX spin rod and had a chance to fish a bcr80glx this past weekend along with an mbr783 IMX. Both are GREAT rods but I think the GLX is a little quicker, lighter and more crisp...even among the same rods. The sensitivity is ridiculous with the 803 GLX...it's insane.

I'd go GLX. IMX is great but that GLX material IMHO is a cut above everything. Good luck!

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The IMX series is what made G. Loomis. You will be completely

satisfied with these rods. However, if another $100 doesn't

mean too much to you, the GLX series is slightly more sensitive.

Technically, the IMX is probably the stronger rod because the

blank walls are slightly thicker, but that is a feature you will

never notice.

8-)

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The "best bang for the buck" in the GLoomis line is the IMX.

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The "best bang for the buck" in the GLoomis line is the IMX.

I agree with Raul, the premium for the GLX doesn't buy much,

but there is a little. Is it worth it? I don't know for you, but it

is for me.

This same discussion holds for high end reels, but I won't bring

up Raul's affliction for JDM in general and the Pixy in particular!

"Collectors" or "enthusiasts" have interests that are not always

measured in dollars and cents.

8-)

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The "best bang for the buck" in the GLoomis line is the IMX.

I agree with Raul, the premium for the GLX doesn't buy much,

but there is a little. Is it worth it? I don't know for you, but it

is for me.

This same discussion holds for high end reels, but I won't bring

up Raul's affliction for JDM in general and the Pixy in particular!

"Collectors" or "enthusiasts" have interests that are not always

measured in dollars and cents.

8-)

GLoomis CR721IMX + Daiwa Liberto Pixy + You-Zuri Hybrid 6 lb test = FUNtastic !!!!!

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RW, your statement ""Collectors" or "enthusiasts" have interests that are not always measured in dollars and cents", could very well be spelled dollars and SENSE.

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RW, your statement ""Collectors" or "enthusiasts" have interests that are not always measured in dollars and cents", could very well be spelled dollars and SENSE.

What 's "sense"  :-?, never heard about it..... ah, you mean like having all your braincells completely operational ? oooops, sorry to say I ain 't in that group of people, burnt my last one many years ago, it just popped like a fire cracker when I purchased my first japanese bait.  ;)

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RW, your statement ""Collectors" or "enthusiasts" have interests that are not always measured in dollars and cents", could very well be spelled dollars and SENSE.

I'm sure you didn't mean it that way but it comes across poorly.  It makes you sound like a bitter guy without the dollars.

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IMX is one of those big wide screen theaters for special effects.

GLX is a stool softener.

Can I go home now?

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Technically, the IMX is probably the stronger rod because the

blank walls are slightly thicker, but that is a feature you will

never notice.

8-)

Wall thickness doesn't equate to rod strength. The load a rod can handle is a result of hoop strength. You can build a thin wall thick butt rod blank that is just as strong as a thick wall, thin butt blank.

I would surmise the GL3, IMX, and GLX of the same model should have very similar strength and performance characteristics for the same model rod (this isn't always the case, but I've found them to usually be pretty similar). You should increase sensitivity going up grades of models because of the ability to use less graphite overall.

Technically the fibers in a higher modulus rod should be "stronger" than those in a lower modulus, allowing you to use less material to achieve the same strength. It lets you build a lighter rod blank of the same power, and lighter usually means more sensitive.

One side effect is the higher modulus rods tend to be damaged more easily by side impacts, etc because less material is used.

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Are the IMX series rods covered in a coat of glaze (I'm not sure of the proper term, scrim?) or are they uncoated? I do not recall from the last time I visited my local cabelas because I recently became interested in the loomis rods and never paid too much attention. I think that this added durability would be worth it for me.

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Are the IMX series rods covered in a coat of glaze (I'm not sure of the proper term, scrim?) or are they uncoated? I do not recall from the last time I visited my local cabelas because I recently became interested in the loomis rods and never paid too much attention. I think that this added durability would be worth it for me.

Clear coat only up to about half the distance between the foregrip and the first guide, the rest of the blank all the way up to the tip is mattè.

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Only durability the clear coat will add is limited protection from chips and scratches.

One thing to think about - if I remember correctly - some of the original Loomis blanks (the ones that made them famous) were natural graphite.

Blanks don't need a top coat or a clear coat. It can make them more attractive or not so plain. Color some times helps with marketing too...

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I have read (on this forum I think) that scratches and chips can lead to easier breakage. Is this not the case?

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I have read (on this forum I think) that scratches and chips can lead to easier breakage. Is this not the case?

Yes, however, it depends on how deep the "scratch" or "chip" is and clear coat unless very thick is not going to protect much the blank, it 's only hundreds of an inch thick ( not much protection ).

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