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Cranking in non-shad waters

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Just for background, I'm fishing in at least 10' of visibility, rocky reservoirs in anywhere from 4' to 50' of water. I've spent the past month or so trying not to throw anything but cranks, wanting to learn all about them and how to make bass bite them.  The lakes I fish have no shad, but they do have bluegill, crappie, and crayfish in numbers.  It seems that while I can catch numbers on the crank, I cannot catch bigger fish even when I fish very close to heavy cover.  Lately it seems most of the fish are holding tight to wood with a specific kind of weed growth on it in 3'-15' of water and want a slow fluttering fall of a weightless plastic rather than a crank.  I've mainly thrown lipless cranks so that I could cover the entire water column by counting down after I cast.  I have also thrown medium divers with square bills trying to bang it off of cover to generate the reaction strike. How do I trigger the bigger fish to bite the crank or in general where they aren't used to chasing open water fish will I not get big bites on a crank?

  • Super User

Nearly every lake in CA below 5,000 ft elevation has a threadfin shad population, so I will guess you are fishing a higher elevation mountain lake. If that is the issue, then your lake is more than likely still in the spawning cycle;pre/spawn/post. Cranks work good during pre spawn, not so good until the bass recoup and become active again and willing to chase down a faster moving lure.

I would stay with the deep diving fire-tiger and red-brown crawdad colors and keep them bottom bumping as much as possible.

WRB

PS; if the lake freezes over, your bass are northern strain and react good to cranks.

  • Author

I fish the Lagunitas chain of lakes (not that far above sea level) in Marin and there are no shad to be had.  Most of the lakes are southern strain around here too.  The spawn (believe it or not) started in a hot week at the end of Feb, shut down during all the rain, then some have been spawning every warm spell since.  I think most have spawned at this point, but I'm not sure.  Most my crank fish are coming in 6' of water or less, none over 3 lbs this year.

I would try a chart/blue back crankbait. Ive been throwing the strike king crankbaits here in SC. I would go with either a series 5 or 6(depending on if you want to plow the bottom or not). You can still catch bass on shad patterned cranks when there are no shad though. Red would also work good too.

  • Author

I hadn't thrown any non-natural colors (chart) because of the water clarity being 10 feet or greater, but it might just trigger them.  I have a crank almost exactly as you describe, deeper diver with chart sides and a blue/purple back, I'll have to give it a try.

Regarding cranking super deep 20+, I've been reluctant to do that but I will give it a try.  I do have a DD22 in sexy shad that I never use.

  • Super User

I'm not familiar with the Lagunitas chain of lakes? Are you fishing Nicasio, Alpine and Kent? These are all shore fishing only lakes, stock with trout and also have a LMB, bluegill, crappie and American shad population.

If you are fishing from shore, then consider using a Lunker Punker wake bait or Matts lure bluegill or crappie swimbait, in lieu of a crank bait, if you want larger bass from shore. It's hard to beat a T-rigged or C-rigged 7" to 10" (dark colors for off color water) plastic worm for shore fishing and targeting larger size bass.

WRB

PS; also consider fishing at night during the summer in clear water lakes.

  • Super User

In my neck of the woods there are no shad and one of my favorite weapons are crankbaits.

  • Author
I'm not familiar with the Lagunitas chain of lakes? Are you fishing Nicasio, Alpine and Kent?

These are all shore fishing only lakes, stock with trout and also have a LMB, bluegill, crappie and American shad population.

Fish all three (from shore), Alpine hasn't been stocked with trout for at least a decade or more and the other two never have to my knowledge. Above those lakes, Bon Tempe is stocked regularly although I rarely if ever fish there.  One plus is that some stocker trout washed down from Bon Tempe and holdovers do live in Alpine and Kent.

If you are fishing from shore, then consider using a Lunker Punker wake bait or Matts lure bluegill or crappie swimbait, in lieu of a crank bait, if you want larger bass from shore. It's hard to beat a T-rigged or C-rigged 7" to 10" (dark colors for off color water) plastic worm for shore fishing and targeting larger size bass.

WRB

PS; also consider fishing at night during the summer in clear water lakes.

I will give the big wake baits a try, up to now I've been reluctant to throw something that isn't fast if it isn't a jig or plastic in such clear water.  I've thrown a 6" bbz swimbait in trout color but I've yet to get a bite.  Last summer I did well around dusk and into early night on the crank and I will give that a try again.

Tried C-rigging a 4" chigger craw for no bites the other day, will have to try the big T-rigged worms as I've never given them a chance.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

For the most part you are going to find the bigger girls fishing deeper structure. Cranks have not been my main focus but after the start I have had on them this year and a few of the sacks I had on them last year I see my self using them much more frequently. The Deep Little N has been my go to crank (almost time to bust out the DD22). Most of my fish have come between 10-15ft of water and are in the 3-5lb range (my biggest on a crank is 11lbs 2oz).

I have never fished the chain of lakes your referring to but would start at main lake points. If you do not get bit move to secondary points and the edges of flats. Anything that drops into a creek channel is a plus. Fish the bait parallel to the structure or position shallow pulling the bait uphill into the structure. Pay close attention to your casts because the more time you spend on that body of water you will start to find sweet spots that will produce time and time again. In most cases you will get bit more when your bait stays in contact with the bottom. All though there are days it will happen do not expect to get bit every five minutes. IMO 5-10 quality bites in a day are far better than catching 30 dinks.

As far as gear I would suggest a 7+ ft rod in a med/hvy rod with a mod/fast action. A long rod makes longer casts helping achieve the desired depth for longer periods of time. I like a faster retrieving reel than most. I feel you work less. Its just preference. You may need to use line as light as 6lb maximize your depth, especially in the summer months.

Anyway hope this helps.

  • Super User

Fishing a deep diving crankbait from shore in rocky, brushy structure that these lakes have, it is very difficult not to hang them up and lose them often.

Swimbaits that have similar profile and coloration as the baitfish work well in clear water and will get the attention of big bass. You are trying for a feeding strike with a swimbait, not a reaction strike that a crankbait triggers.

I consider myself a good jig fisherman and don't fish jigs from shore on deep clear structured lakes, prefer T-rigs or finesse "slip shot" C-rigs; black brass Pro-Jo weight, glass bead, Peg-It to hold the bead and soft plastic worms or critters.

Big bass often look up at the surface for prey and slower swimming surface and sub-surface lures work very well from shore. Slow down and saturate the area, before moving on. Make a fan casting pattern that over laps where you started. Try a few lures before packing up and moving to another spot.

Steep banked deep structured lakes are difficult to move around on when bank fishing. If you can get out on a major point, that's the primary spot to start.

Got my info from the DFG site in regards to what has been stocked into those lakes and have not fished them.

Your bass are northern strain LMB, unless a bass club planted Florida's, the DFG didn't and I don't think anyone would in lakes without boat access. 6" baitfish is big for a NLMB, so I would use the smaller size swimbaits. Big worms will work and nearly everything else. Don't forget a double buzzer, good surface lure worked from shore.

WRB

  • Author
Fishing a deep diving crankbait from shore in rocky, brushy structure that these lakes have, it is very difficult not to hang them up and lose them often.

Yeah, I am often reluctant to fish the deep divers there.

Swimbaits that have similar profile and coloration as the baitfish work well in clear water and will get the attention of big bass. You are trying for a feeding strike with a swimbait, not a reaction strike that a crankbait triggers.

I consider myself a good jig fisherman and don't fish jigs from shore on deep clear structured lakes, prefer T-rigs or finesse "slip shot" C-rigs; black brass Pro-Jo weight, glass bead, Peg-It to hold the bead and soft plastic worms or critters. Big bass often look up at the surface for prey and slower swimming surface and sub-surface lures work very well from shore. Slow down and saturate the area, before moving on. Make a fan casting pattern that over laps where you started. Try a few lures before packing up and moving to another spot.

Steep banked deep structured lakes are difficult to move around on when bank fishing. If you can get out on a major point, that's the primary spot to start.

I am probably guilty of not throwing enough swimbaits, I will try some of the smaller paddletails again.

Regarding C/T rigging, I've never really commited to C-rigging over a long period of time (month) but it's probably worth trying again, especially in the finesse variety.

Got my info from the DFG site in regards to what has been stocked into those lakes and have not fished them.

Your bass are northern strain LMB, unless a bass club planted Florida's, the DFG didn't and I don't think anyone would in lakes without boat access. 6" baitfish is big for a NLMB, so I would use the smaller size swimbaits.

WRB

Regardless of what the original DFG plant was, Alpine and Nicasio are currently Florida-strain (we've debated this very subject in the Marin Bass Club), with only Kent being Northern. Verified by measuring jaw to eye alignment.  To the shad, maybe they are there, but I have NEVER heard of anyone seeing bait balls or bass pushing shad into coves.

Big worms will work and nearly everything else. Don't forget a double buzzer, good surface lure worked from shore.

All this topwater talk! :D I really haven't put my time in with the very top of the water column and now that you mention, I am going to again. I have a couple of walk-the-dog baits and frogs that I'm going to give a try (in addtion to the previously mentioned buzz and wake baits).

  • Author

Gobig,

While I'd like to fish the deep divers, I'm landlocked and it's usually (although not always) a possibility.  I tend to not throw baits that dive below 10' although once in a while I've thrown the DD22 with no success.  Both WRB and you mention fishing points (and then secondary points), which I should be but haven't targeted lately. 

I will be putting everyone's suggestions to work this weekend, if I do well I'll come back and add a link to my fishing report to this thread. Thanks.

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