I have a Johnson GT 175 and it runs good... when it starts. If I dont go and start the motor everyday it is horrible to start it will take me and hour sometimes just to get it started but after that it will start good all day. Is this just because it is a bigger motor? I was in my buddy's boat this week and he has a 2006 Suzuki 4 stroke with hydrolic steering and I loved it so my question is: Is it worth selling my outboard and buying a newer outboard? If so what are your recommendation for an outboard (preferably 4 stroke)? It will be going on a 19ft Stratos rated for a 200hp

Its all according to your money situation. You could probably sell your motor for $3,000 or so, but then a new 200 will cost you at least $13,000, so how will you pay for the new motor. I wouldn't recommend taking out a loan for a new motor, especially if you are still paying on the boat, but then again, I dont ever recommend taking a loan.

Another option would be to buy a used motor. You can get a 2003-2005 Opti for about 5k-6.5k. Four strokes are going to be more expensive and not really offer any advantages except no oil. The reason your GT has such a hard time starting is because its a carb motor. An Optimax is a EFI which will start super easy.

Last recommendation would be to buy a 200. Dont settle for anything less or you will regret it in the long run.

why not take the thing in for service? i dont see how you wont be 2x upside down in the boat after dropping dime for a 200 hp motor...

why not take the thing in for service? i dont see how you wont be 2x upside down in the boat after dropping dime for a 200 hp motor...

Actually I just had it serviced it helped a lot but it is still hard to start. I am definitely gonna get a used motor maybe 2005-2006. Does every one here agree on the mercury optimax?

Also what kind of speed am I gonna gain from a 200? my boat runs 55-60mph right now and thats really fast for me.

Actually I just had it serviced it helped a lot but it is still hard to start. I am definitely gonna get a used motor maybe 2005-2006. Does every one here agree on the mercury optimax?

typically, when i have something serviced, if the problem isnt fixed i take it back. do you owe anything on the boat? can you R&R a big motor yourself? if youre changing brands i can only assume youll be buying controls as well.

whats the price youre wiling to spend to "upgrade" to a used motor?

typically, when i have something serviced, if the problem isnt fixed i take it back. do you owe anything on the boat? can you R&R a big motor yourself? if youre changing brands i can only assume youll be buying controls as well.

whats the price youre wiling to spend to "upgrade" to a used motor?

I do not owe anything on the boat and I am not planning on selling anytime soon. I want this boat to last me for the next ten years so I dont mind putting a little bit of money into it. Assuming I can get $2500 for my motor now I would be willing to spend 5000-5500 but would like to keep it in the $4500 range. A buddy of mine just got a 2006 Suzuki 4 stroke 140Hp for $4000

I do not owe anything on the boat and I am not planning on selling anytime soon. I want this boat to last me for the next ten years so I dont mind putting a little bit of money into it. Assuming I can get $2500 for my motor now I would be willing to spend 5000-5500 but would like to keep it in the $4500 range. A buddy of mine just got a 2006 Suzuki 4 stroke 140Hp for $4000

lot of money for a tuning problem. youll be buying a motor you know nothing about for that price. good luck.....

It must be a Johnson problem, I have a ‘96 70 hp on a Stratos & it has always been hard to start. I swear that motor hates me, takes me 15-20 minutes to start it but my brother or fishing buddy can start it in 5.

Mercury offers factory Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) outboard program

CPO outboards must pass a multi-point inspection process, be brought back to original functional specifications, and be functionally hot-tested by our team of factory technicians.

You're not burning the gas out of the carbs at the end of each outing are you? My cousin thought this was a good idea despite my warning and now his boat has been in the shop all season. The oil pump keeps pumping oil after the gas is exhausted and fouls the plugs, making for hard or impossible starting.

don't think you will be happy with a 140hp. motor will just work harder to push that boat. I had a Stratos 295 pro xl with a 200 opti and got 72mph gps. get a used opti. starts like a car. no choking. turn key start. I downed sized to a 115 opti on my tin. I think the 2 strokes have more low end and they are great on gas. I would'nt go less than a 175hp on that boat. don't overlook the Yamaha hpdi. strong running engine. the only problem is finding shops that will service them. your never far from a merc dealer.

Actually I just had it serviced it helped a lot but it is still hard to start. I am definitely gonna get a used motor maybe 2005-2006. Does every one here agree on the mercury optimax?

The largest problem I see with Johnson/Rude are the carbs for hard starting conditions, Not to say there aren't other issues you may have ie...Carbon build up, but The ethanol in todays fuel is eating up the inside of fuel lines and sending trash into the rest of the system, Since you stated it runs good after you get it started I am only assuming there are no mechanical issues.

Usually you will notice that the primer bulb if you have one will get firm when you prime but in most cases with all models that use primer bulbs it will still feel a little soft at the end of your prime... almost like the carbs are not getting full and you have to keep priming...that is a good indication that there is trash stuck or built up in the needle/seat area not allowing the needle to fully seat and shut the fuel passage.

If there is trash in your system it will most likely be in the small ports of your carbs as well ie...the most effected being the idle circuts, the whole fuel system should be serviced at this point but will cost you a whole lot less than an upgrade to a different model engine.

The largest problem I see with Johnson/Rude are the carbs for hard starting conditions, Not to say there aren't other issues you may have ie...Carbon build up, but The ethanol in todays fuel is eating up the inside of fuel lines and sending trash into the rest of the system, Since you stated it runs good after you get it started I am only assuming there are no mechanical issues.

Usually you will notice that the primer bulb if you have one will get firm when you prime but in most cases with all models that use primer bulbs it will still feel a little soft at the end of your prime... almost like the carbs are not getting full and you have to keep priming...that is a good indication that there is trash stuck or built up in the needle/seat area not allowing the needle to fully seat and shut the fuel passage.

If there is trash in your system it will most likely be in the small ports of your carbs as well ie...the most effected being the idle circuts, the whole fuel system should be serviced at this point but will cost you a whole lot less than an upgrade to a different model engine.

Thanks Would running a can of cleaner like seafoam help any?

Thanks Would running a can of cleaner like seafoam help any?

Have you ever treated your fuel before?

It definetly wont hurt and if it makes a change then try another treatment with seafoam right after that untill it gets cleared up then every other tank full.

Hope it works for you.

Thanks I will try running a can of seafoam through it. What are your thoughts on this motor? It is a little older but it looks pretty nice. http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/boa/2465542463.html

Too bad you're not close to middle GA, I don't usually work on others motors, but I could probably change you're mind about wanting to get rid of if just because you can't get it started.

It probably needs a proper linc and sinc for starters, but let me tell you one thing to try. After it sits to the point it's hard to start, before doing anything, pull the engine cover off. You can do this before launching the boat. I would recommend doing the first couple of tries on the hose to get the feel of things and how many times for pump the bulb. Pump the primer bulb until it's firm. Now look on your primer valve on the side of the engine and you will see a little red lever, flip it up. Now start pumping the primer bulb again, pump it about six times (full squeezes)for starters, flip the lever back down and try starting the engine. If it starts, within a reasonable number turns, they stay with that number of squeezes.

what's probably happening is the crankcase is drying out and you are not getting enough fuel in it to fire the engine, it takes a lot. This could be because of a bad diaphram in the primer valve, or the valve is not even working when you press the key for the primer (choke), or a couple of other things going on.

Are you running the oil injection? If not, I can give you a sure cure if the primer circuit is working.

By the way, I think you might be wishing (a lot) about getting $2,500 for your motor.

One other question, are you holding the key in to prime/choke it while you're cranking it or just pressing and releasing it then cranking the engine?

Too bad you're not close to middle GA, I don't usually work on others motors, but I could probably change you're mind about wanting to get rid of if just because you can't get it started.

It probably needs a proper linc and sinc for starters, but let me tell you one thing to try. After it sits to the point it's hard to start, before doing anything, pull the engine cover off. You can do this before launching the boat. I would recommend doing the first couple of tries on the hose to get the feel of things and how many times for pump the bulb. Pump the primer bulb until it's firm. Now look on your primer valve on the side of the engine and you will see a little red lever, flip it up. Now start pumping the primer bulb again, pump it about six times (full squeezes)for starters, flip the lever back down and try starting the engine. If it starts, within a reasonable number turns, they stay with that number of squeezes.

what's probably happening is the crankcase is drying out and you are not getting enough fuel in it to fire the engine, it takes a lot. This could be because of a bad diaphram in the primer valve, or the valve is not even working when you press the key for the primer (choke), or a couple of other things going on.

Are you running the oil injection? If not, I can give you a sure cure if the primer circuit is working.

By the way, I think you might be wishing (a lot) about getting $2,500 for your motor.

One other question, are you holding the key in to prime/choke it while you're cranking it or just pressing and releasing it then cranking the engine?

Thanks I am holding the choke in and turning the key

I'd rather buy a whole used rig that checked out than re-powering with another make outboard.

OK, Try manually priming it like I mentioned and post if that worked or not. A lot of people press and release the primer, which really does nothing. The engine has to be turning for the fuel pump to pump and the fuel pump has to be pumping for the primer to work.

Are you running the oil injection?

Drained the gas tanks and replaced the fuel filter put new gas in with some cleaner and it started up pretty easily. I will let you know how it runs over the next couple days. but I think I just need to clean the fuel lines.

OK, Try manually priming it like I mentioned and post if that worked or not. A lot of people press and release the primer, which really does nothing. The engine has to be turning for the fuel pump to pump and the fuel pump has to be pumping for the primer to work.

Are you running the oil injection?

No I am mixing my gas. I tried flipping the red lever like you said but it didnt help it almost seems like it is getting to much gas and flooding and on top of that the starter went out today it spins but it wont engage the flywheel

It might be, usually it's because it's not getting enough fuel, but the primer solenoid my not be fully shutting the fuel off. I would start by doing a complete check of the primer. Normally, there are three lines going to it, one large and two small. the large is the supply line from the fuel pump, the two small are the primer lines. Pull one or both the small lines off and crank it over some. No fuel shoud come out of the primer valve, if it does, get a new diaphram and cap assy. If no fuel comes out, try again and press the key in, this should cause a stream of fuel to come out. If not, make sure the solenoid is working. If it is, get a diaphram and cap assy. If you install new parts, check it again when done.

If all that checks good, your next step is going to be the carbs. It's very possible you have fuel leaking by one of the needle/seat assy.

Need for you to check one more thing. Do this on the hose just in case it does start. Crank it over for a few seconds and then take a cople of spark plugs out. If they are wet, you are either getting too much fuel or cold spark. If they are dry, you're not getting fuel to them. If dry, open the butterflys and spray some premixed gas in the throats and try it again.

As long as a plug is dry, there's not enough fuel getting to it. If they are wet, you're getting too much fuel to them or not a hot enough spark.

Another option..The E-tec is a good motor too. Lightweight.You will not have to change your controls.

I owned a Evinrude 140 for 10 years and that motor started quickly even though it was carbed. If your carbs are clean and set up right, the motor should start with just a couple of key turns.

I currently have a carbed Mercury 150. I can pull the boat cover off of her, prime the fuel and she will fire on the 2nd or 3rd attempt. Every motor has its cold start quirks. I took a while to figure out on my Mercury. After holding the enrichener (choke) for 5 seconds, I move the throttle to 1/2 and she fires right up.