Has anyone figured out how to use this on a split grip handle?

I've got them on all my straight handled rods and it makes a huge difference in feel and less forearm fatigue at the end of the day.

The same way?

The same way?

Split grips are way more tapered than full grips. No need for the smart a** answer....

OP I can't seem to think of a way.

No way to get that on this without possibly cutting and sanding the balancer.

If you're more concerned about function than looks, you could experiment with different sizes of washers and duct tape until you get a balance you like. Just a thought. They make different colors of duct tape.

i have a friend who uses them on mojo split grips with no problem.i don't understand whats not working for you.

If the rubber piece is too tight of a fit for the butt, swap it with the correct size chair leg foot from a hardware store.

Have you considered weighting the inside of the blank?

oe

Weighting the inside of the blank presents some challenges especially on a finished rod. If that's what you want I suggest contacting a rod builder for assistance.

Have you considered weighting the inside of the blank?

oe

Id like to know more about that. The rod I picked up is a Powell Endurance 673 and the balance point is north of the reel seat.

The butt end of this rod is actually smaller and like Packard said in his reply, very tapered, which then turns into the rod blank.

Sent Pm to Mike at Delaware Valley Tackle.

Ill post a pic later today of what I did. Basically just some trimming and some sandpaper on the balancer and on the rods foam butt..the butt was very rounded so I had to trim it down to the diameter of the rest of the cork butt

Split grips are way more tapered than full grips. No need for the smart a** answer....

OP I can't seem to think of a way.

No way to get that on this without possibly cutting and sanding the balancer.

Well, if you have to cut and sand.....Just do it?

And BASSclary has a legit point. Have you tried doing it the same way?

The butt on this rod (post9)is flared which will make a tight fit in back and loose in front. Reshaping the butt is the way to go.

Shoe goo + a couple of quarters as counter weights + felt tip is your solution. No need to cut or sand the butt end of the rod. The Shoe goo will hold the quarters pretty good. The best thing about this solution is that you can remove the weights without damaging the cork if you later decide to remove them by using a braid line to cut thru the dried shoe goo. You can use a scotch tape to hold them in place when while drying the Shoe goo.

Shoe goo + a couple of quarters as counter weights + felt tip is your solution. No need to cut or sand the butt end of the rod. The Shoe goo will hold the quarters pretty good. The best thing about this solution is that you can remove the weights without damaging the cork if you later decide to remove them by using a braid line to cut thru the dried shoe goo. You can use a scotch tape to hold them in place when while drying the Shoe goo.

Very innovative. Thanks for sharing!

How much weight are you planning to add? What techniques will you be using the rod for? Will the appearance of the butt balancing cup (butt ugly in my opinion) be preferable to a small epoxy filled hole at the end of the rod?

oe

I did the internal thing with my flipping stick, which is a 7'9" XH Carrot Stick. There is a little plastic cap at the end of the butt covering the open end of the blank. I slid a couple lead weights threaded on a piece of wire down inside, with some foam around them so they'd fit snug and not move around. The end of the wire has a loop so I can pull the whole thing out if I ever change my mind or sell the rod. I had to experiment with some different combinations, but finally got it pretty well balanced right at the reel seat. Worked like a champ and didn't cost me a dime.

Shoe goo + a couple of quarters as counter weights + felt tip is your solution. No need to cut or sand the butt end of the rod. The Shoe goo will hold the quarters pretty good. The best thing about this solution is that you can remove the weights without damaging the cork if you later decide to remove them by using a braid line to cut thru the dried shoe goo. You can use a scotch tape to hold them in place when while drying the Shoe goo.

Good thinkin' there, baluga

I may take a shot at this one. Not a lot of collateral damage, which is nice, in case it doesn't work out.

hookset on 3

Anyone tried adding lead tape to the blank just above the lower handle? I remember when the pros used to add it to the tips of fast graphite rods to slow the action down when suspending baits first hit big, before the use of slower graphite and glass

Ill post a pic later today of what I did. Basically just some trimming and some sandpaper on the balancer and on the rods foam butt..the butt was very rounded so I had to trim it down to the diameter of the rest of the cork butt

OK finally....Had some issues with our internet.

This isn't the prettiest solution, but on a 7'6 rod, it isn't as ugly as what you would think. Plus, for me, the balance, at least on my jig rod, is worth the trade off in looks.

This picture is of the butt with the balancer off obviously. That foam butt cap, was a rounded one, that I had to trim with a razor, and then sand to get rid of the flat cut marks from the razor blade.

Then cut down the balancer, and sand it, and slip it on. It still fits very tight.