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Rod Or Reel?


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49 replies to this topic

#31 .ghoti.

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Posted February 09 2013 - 07:56 PM

WHAT?  
 
Gotta have the bling-bling!
 
 
 
:eyebrows:


Being color-blind does have it's advantages. LOL!
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#32 Big Bassman

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Posted February 09 2013 - 09:51 PM

I spend a little more on the reels because they WILL last me for a very long time if not forever, while I do break a rod once and awhile and don't believe anyone will give me a replacement rod at a total n/c if I have used it for awhile? This is a personal choice question.

 

What a great post/topic. Everyones opinions are not only fasinating but right on. This site is loaded with quality fishermen that know their sport and how to share this knowledge with other members. This place is a gold mine, all the way down to "bling-bling"!



#33 zwhiten12

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Posted February 11 2013 - 05:21 PM

Thanks for all of the help yall!



#34 Felix77

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Posted February 11 2013 - 06:04 PM

It's like a good marriage ... They must work together.  It doesn't matter if you spend more or less on either part as long as they work together.  

 

I have reels that are more expensive than the rod and visa versa.  The challenge is matching them up to suit your needs.


><(((º>              ><(((º>                 ><(((º>

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#35 Jake Coucoules

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Posted February 11 2013 - 10:53 PM

I think if its a jig/worm rod were you really need that extra sensitivity go with the extra money on the rod. If its a moving bait get a better reel so you can cover water easier.

#36 lmbfisherman

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Posted February 12 2013 - 09:03 AM

Being color-blind does have it's advantages. LOL!

You too?  I have a minor issue, reddish tinge colors usually give me the worst problems.  Not total color blind, but enough  to get noticed when I say, nice pink shirt?  and they go huh!


G Loomis, Shimano, Fenwick and Wilderness Systems Ride 135


#37 papajoe222

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Posted February 12 2013 - 09:34 AM

[quote name="QUAKEnSHAKE" post="1232990" timestamp="1360380674"]Given a specific budget...

I want to buy a nicer rod, but I just can't get the thought of somehow breaking the rod and being out that much money where as if I bought a cheaper rod it wouldn't be as big of a deal.

You'll find that if you spend the extra cash for a 'nicer' rod, you'll be more carefull with it.  That is, of course, if it's your money that you're using.  The same goes for a reel.  The more you spend, the more care you'll take of it when not in use.


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#38 thehooligan

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Posted February 12 2013 - 10:08 AM

Im pretty 50/50 on my combos, and thats what i prefer. I was going to spring for a stella this year but went for the sustain. I really dont need a $500+ reel that ill always worry about getting scratched in the boat or kayak, or stolen. Im already paranoid about my sustain getting dropped or scratched, haha. Also it wouldnt match my cumulus anyway. 

 

My cumulus/sustain combo is almost 50/50, a little more went to the rod.

My cumara/ci4 combo is 50/50

My phenix m1/ci4 combo is just about 50/50

My fenwick smallmouth/stradic fj combo went a little more to the reel.

 

Now i have a curado 51e, probally will go with another fenwick smallmouth rod or compre.

 

Im actually trying to build some low budget combos cause i fish with a buddy who has a really small boat, things get stepped on, pushed to the side, etc. Im always holding my rods for dear life, lol.



#39 J Francho

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Posted February 12 2013 - 10:24 AM

You can get a great rod for around $100-120 retail.  "Great" reels don't really come into the picture until about the $200 mark.  So, if you are on the low end, you'll probably spend more on the reel.  On the high end, the rod.


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#40 trailer

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Posted February 12 2013 - 10:43 AM

I feel like it depends on the style or presentation you are fishing. Whichever piece, either the rod or reel, in a given scenario that is more important should have the most money spent on it. If you see both components equally important then treat them equally. Usually if you're talking about "feeling" something I would think the rod is important. If you're talking about "seeing" something, such as topwater, I would think the rod is less important. A nice reel might keep you from cussing all day...


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#41 J Francho

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Posted February 12 2013 - 10:56 AM

Why a rod is "less important" just because you don't need to feel the bite is beyond me.  I hear that ALL THE TIME, and do not agree one bit.  Remember, you use the rod to get the fish to the boat.  It's important.  Choose wisely. ;)


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#42 trailer

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Posted February 12 2013 - 11:52 AM

Why a rod is "less important" just because you don't need to feel the bite is beyond me.  I hear that ALL THE TIME, and do not agree one bit.  Remember, you use the rod to get the fish to the boat.  It's important.  Choose wisely. ;)

Ok, so what's the perfect combination?


Whack 'em & Stack 'em! -Ted Nugent


#43 roadwarrior

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Posted February 12 2013 - 12:58 PM

Ok, so what's the perfect combination?

 

G.Loomis IMX MBR844C/ Curado 200E7

 

Mid-range pricing, on sale, gently used or found in our Flea Market:


You may find them a little cheaper, but I paid around $125 apiece.


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#44 J Francho

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Posted February 12 2013 - 01:02 PM

Ok, so what's the perfect combination?

 

Depends on your style.  If it's a topwater rod, then I want an extra
fast taper, with the power section spread across the rest of the blank. 
Topwater rods are usually shorter, and I want to make the most of the
rod to cushion the fight and protect treble hooks from pulling out, but
enough power to pull a fish from weed cover.  Definitely don't want a
jig and worm type rod.  A short rear handle is nice too.  I use an Avid
6-2 M/XF rod, AC62MXF.  That's been the perfect rod for me.  It's also
my jerkbait rod.  It's very sensitive, and although traditionally
considered a "moving bait," jerkbaits often get bit on the pause where there is slack line, and sensitivity is a must.

 

That's just one example of a moving bait rod.  I could go on about each type, but that's beyond the scope of the OP.  I've commented on several different threads involving cranks, spoons, spinners, topwaters, etc.  You might do a search, and find a bunch of info.

 

I think a lot of people are cheating themselves out
of some bites by not using a somewhat sensitive stick for moving baits. 
I'm not saying you need a $400 rod for this, but consider a halfway
decent rod for this.


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#45 trailer

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Posted February 12 2013 - 07:58 PM

Depends on your style.  If it's a topwater rod, then I want an extra
fast taper, with the power section spread across the rest of the blank. 
Topwater rods are usually shorter, and I want to make the most of the
rod to cushion the fight and protect treble hooks from pulling out, but
enough power to pull a fish from weed cover.  Definitely don't want a
jig and worm type rod.  A short rear handle is nice too.  I use an Avid
6-2 M/XF rod, AC62MXF.  That's been the perfect rod for me.  It's also
my jerkbait rod.  It's very sensitive, and although traditionally
considered a "moving bait," jerkbaits often get bit on the pause where there is slack line, and sensitivity is a must.

 

That's just one example of a moving bait rod.  I could go on about each type, but that's beyond the scope of the OP.  I've commented on several different threads involving cranks, spoons, spinners, topwaters, etc.  You might do a search, and find a bunch of info.

 

I think a lot of people are cheating themselves out
of some bites by not using a somewhat sensitive stick for moving baits. 
I'm not saying you need a $400 rod for this, but consider a halfway
decent rod for this.

Dang it! I just knew you were going to say a Zebco 33 Classic and an Ugly Stick with the glow tip. Shows what I know...


Whack 'em & Stack 'em! -Ted Nugent





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