Micro

I went to my local tackle shop (the cool one that carries all the Japanese stuff) because he just got twenty-five (that's 25) in. When I got there, one person (that's 1) had bought ALL of them. They're good baits.

The Sol MUST be a casting monster. I spun the spool on one at BPS on Tuesday and it was still spinning on Thursday.

It's more manageable that fluoro and doesn't sink as fast, and more abrasion resistant than braid and sinks faster. It's got some stretch. And it's cheap so you can respool as often as you like. I just wish they had come up with monofilament a few years ago. It seems to be the perfect compromise line.

I agree with the All Star recommendation. All Star makes a few nice rods right around $100: 1) ASR model ASR866C 7'2' MH/F http://www.allstarrods.com/as_asrseriesspec.html 2) Team All Star Big Boy model TAS 867BB 7'2" MH/F http://www.allstarrods.com/as_teamasbbspec.html My personal preference would be the Big Boy. Big Boys are super heavy duty and seems to be very finely made.

In some situations that may be true. But if you are fishing corridors and dead-ends in lillypads (which may only be a few feet wide - if that), or pockets in heavy cover, my experience is jerkbaits won't work as well as a surface popper. If I'm fishing open water over a weed bed, then a jerkbait makes sense. If I only have a small area to work - popper. If I have an open area to work - jerkbait. I think one really nees to read the water they are one.

If I see blowups, I'll fish topwater. It doesn't matter if it's morning, middday or evening. I fish lakes with vast areas of very shallow water (1-6 feet). Once the water gets into the mid 60s and higher, I start seeing blowups at all times of day - even high noon. Once I know bass will take surface prey, I'm handicapping myself if I don't take advantage of the bass willingness to take topwater prey. On a bright, sunny day, my favorite topwater is a Storm Chug Bug in chrome/blue. This lure is killer. I'll follow the natural pathways through the lilypads and throw it into dead ends and notches. I've caught some of my biggest bass on topwaters during the day. My recommendation is to watch. If it's apparent bass are feeding ont he surface - go for it.

It never ceases to amaze me what snakes can get down their throats.

Perfect. Joe S's "article" is exactly what I was looking for. I'm gonna cut and paste that to a word document. In fact, I think it's good enough to be one of BR's articles.

I reviewed the articles on BR, but have some basic questions they didn't address.. I've never been a strong jig fisherman (though I've caught some on jigs - in spite of myself). Let me tell you what I think, then tell me if I'm wrong... 1) bullet headed jig are for punching through matted vegatation. 2) football headed jigs are for dragging or bouncing over a relatively smooth bottom. What's the best kind of jig (and weight) for flipping? I've got some locations in mind that have overhanging trees that I think would be good targets for jigs. My flipping rod is a 7'6" H/XF. What's the best kind of trailer for each type of jig? I know there are trailers that resemble craws, and some that have twisty tails. I'm thinking the craw-type would be best on jig fished on the bottom, and the twisty type best for jigs that you drop or flip through cover?? What's the best kind of rod for fishing football head jigs? I've got a 7' MH/F carolina rig rod that feels like a good, stout, extra-fast rod. Sufficient? How do you work a jig you flip or cast through blowdowns or matted vegatation? Do you let it fall to the bottom then retrieve and repeat? Or do you actually "jig it." I've had a few jigs - BPS XPS brand, and I didn't like the quality - so I tossed them. So I bought a selection of football head jigs from my local tackle shop. They are Dave's Tournament Tackle brand and I like the hooks and, paint quality and overall feel and look of the skirts. I bought a few in each weight 1/4oz to 1/2oz, in watermelon, pumpkin, black, black/blue, and bluegill (watermellon with some stripes, sparkles, and purple strands). I've also bought a selection of Persauders in crawfish color in various weights.

Like has been said, I rarely get big fish, but I almost always get some fish, on Beetle Spins. It's one of those classic lures that is perpetually good. White, black w/ yellow, and yellow w/ black work best for me.

If that were mine, it would have saliva marks on it 'cuz I couldn't stop licking it. ;D I can't even bring myself to buy a GLX because I'm afraid I won't enjoy it becasue I'd baby it.

Sweet! Nice looking rig. I'd be afraid to fish with it.

Bee U T Full.

Now, this snake has natural action... Catching bass with a snake 1 Catching bass with a snake 2 Catching bass with a snake 3

Send me the money you were going to spend on the Banjo Minnow, and I will PM you 9 links to useful discussions on BassResource.com.

kybass, check your PM.

Pinnacle (Silstar) makes some good stuff, and they make some crap. I Googled that rod and, frankly, it looks to fall into the crap category. Looks like a low-budget combo for the Walmart rack. You can do much better.

The pinwheel looking thing on the brake-side of the frame that is over the actual brake looked like it was made of plastic and could come off. But if you look closely, it's part of the frame. How completely bizarre. Why the heck would they make it so you have to take the spool out from the handle side? The article makes a good point - they are going to have to do MUCH better to sell that reel at it's price. But there is so much that needs to be done to it that I don't see how they can fix it. It looks like a complete redesign is in order.

Finally, an in-depth look at this baitcaster. Ardent XS 1000

It's got the same brake as on my Johnny Morris Elite baitcaster. It's a really good brake. I like it a lot.

Cumara out, Carrot Stik in.

From the reel seat to the end of the butt is 9 3/4". You can get a very good two-handed grip on the rod. That bulge at the very end makes it feel very sure in the hand.

Wish I could help, but I haven't had a chance to use my Elite Tech Crankshaft on the water, yet. I have been casting it using a reel I don't plan on using on this rod (Revo STX). I will tell you it's extremely nicely made. It's light, and has very nice two footed Alconite guides right up to the top. It feels phenominal. I didn't know if I was going to like the reel seat and rear grip, but both are awesome and the butt gives you a definite sense of control. It's built for long casts with heavy cranks. I did have a chance to look at the Lamiglass and ARS rods, but but picked the Fenwick. It felt lighter than either, and much more controlable. I didn't have a chance to see a Dobyns. The Fenwick has a lifetime warranty, too. I haven't had to use a Fenwick warranty, but the tackle shop owners I talked to says their warranty service it extremely good.

Try it. Hook-ups are exponentially easier with the frog rigged that way. It's just as weedless conventional rigging. The hook does get knocked out a little easier, but unless you're throwing it right onto a stump or tree trunk, it's fine. Slop rarely knocks the hook loose. This is my preferred way to fish a toad.

Any idea of the total length of the Owner 7/0? I want long, but not too long. This is the way I like to rig my Horny Toads...