Micro

In a pretty sort of way... http://purefishing.jp/new/2008/06/09_1/index.html

It's all that Rhode Island winter road salt underneath it.

I also agree that higher cost usually gets you higher quality and better performance. If you graphed it, it certainly wouldn't be linear - there is a point of diminishing return. But for the most part, a $200 reel is going to outperform a $50 reel. My problem isn't that nice stuff is beyond my means. But rather that I have a quirk that prevents me from enjoying super high end stuff. I baby it. Someone mentioned guns. I experienced that. I had a custom Mannlicher-Schönauer .30-06 with a custom Paul Jaeger quick detachable scope mount and a Zeiss scope. I could barely bring myself to hunt with it, and I was always protecting it when I did, to the point I didn't enjoy it. It got to the point that all I did was take it out of the safe occassionally and rub it with a silicone cloth. I ended up selling it and bought several rifles that I did hunt with and enjoyed. I'd probably do the same with a $600 Megabass rod, or a $450 Steez reel. My upper limit for a reel is about $200-$250. About the same for a rod. (Most of mine are much lower.) IMO, those prices will get you premium equipment, but not so expensive I have to worry breaking it and not being able to replace it.

I don't think the Elite Tech line is "gimmicky." But I think it's another example of a company jumping on the "technique specific" rods bandwagon. It's a case of a company telling YOU what THEY think is best. I bought the Crankshaft because I wanted a long, glass rod for big, deep diving crankbaits. I didn't have anything really appropriate for those. After doing some comparing, I liked the Crankshaft the best. So I bought it. I happen to think the recommended technique and the design of the rod comport nicely. But for the mot part I don't give a flip about what technique the manufactuer recommends. I have several All Star "spinnerbait" rods that I usually use top throw swim senkos, big topwaters, some types of plastics. It's power and action make it good all around rod. I've got a "carolina riggin" rod that sees far more duty throwing toads than carolina rigs. Most of my rods pull double, triple or even quadruple duty. I've got a couple of Fenwick HMG graphite rods that I use to throw light cranks. All you can do it try it and see if you like it.

The Abu Cardinal 700LXs and 800s are bullet proof. Fantastic reels are reasonable prices.

Hmmmm. I lived in Lawton, too.

I read your blog. Good report. Added to my favroites. I 'm going to hit PP in the next few weeks (70 mile drive for me). One thing I noticed is that I can pick up a few bass right out of the holes - even where people are swimming - just like you said. But I've gotten my biggest in those currents that you described as water rushing between boulders. I cast downstream and across the current and as the lure (white jigs work best for me) sweeps across the current on the retrieve is usually when I get a hit. I'm going to try some small craw colored cranks next time I go.

That's a Texposed Rig, or texpose rigging a worm.

I bought one a few weeks ago. The 7'3" MH model. I still haven't fished it yet. But I've been casting it with one of my Revos and one of my EXT Pros to see which reel profile I like best on it. It is relatively light, being half graphite, half glass. It seems very whippy to me, but I haven't used a glass rod in many years. It seems to be very well made. It has double footed alconite guides all the way up. I can get LONG distances on it compared to a 7' graphite rod with the same reel and same 3/8 oz casting plug. The bulged grip end gives a very sure feel when casting.

This should have been his "after" picture...

This place is a friggin' convent compared to other subject forums out there. I used to moderate a WWII history forum. Talk about mean. You'd think the war was going on and that there was still some question about where the Nazis were good guys or bad guys. This place is VERY civilized compared to some.

Speaking of texas rigging a worm. I say it a lot. But I hardly ever do it. I almost always texpose rig a worm. Except when I'm shaky heading with a spot remover. The fish never minded my terminology.

I know that. I call most jig heads in that category shaky heads.

I can only compare the SX to the Curado 200DHSV. In that comparison the SX is smaller, lighter, easier to palm, cast further, has an externally adjustable brake, had less backplay, 18-24 lbs of drag, and is as well made as the Shimano. The Shimano was as smooth, had a little more effective centrifugal brake, and had much more comfortable grips. Both handled light baits well.

Don't need to read it. Their STX is the same as our STX. The lefty STX is a mirror of the righty STX. And you can see the price is the same for the lefty as it is for the righty. I posted it because the Japanese Abu site seems to get updated much more fequently than the US site. I suspect the STX HS-L and SX HS-L will be available in the US shortly.

Try this...

Hmmm. Looks to be the same price as the STX-HS to me.

The Revos will serve you well for years, as well. If you like round Abu reels, but want more modern features, check out the Abu Garcia EXT Pro. I have two of these and they are great reels. They will cast forever. They are a wee bit tempermental, but their performance is outta this world.

Me, too. Just before a front moves through, or later the next day or after is great. But right after is usually fruitless for me.

well it is

It's on Japan's Pure Fishing site... http://purefishing.jp/new/08_08.html Can't imagine this won't carry over to the US market. Now you wrong handed people can burn with class, too.

Here's what the brake on the Revo S looks like. Those brown things are weights that slide out due to centrifical force on their shafts when the spool spins. They rub against the inside of a brass ring on the side plate you took off. That rubbing produces friction that slows down rotation. You turns a rake OFF by sliding down the shft until it clicks. There's a litttle tiny tab on the bottom of the shaft that will hold the brake weight down and prevent it from sliding whent he spool spins. These can actually be a little stubborn to turn OFF and ON. I recommend holding the reel in both hands and using your thumb nails to turn the brakes ON and OFF. This gives you maximum control so you don't pop a weight right off the end of the shaft, or bend a shaft. BTW, OFF means the weight is locked at the bottom of the shaft unable to move. ON means it is unlocked from the bottom of the shaft and free to move up and down the shft. (ON DOES NOT mean it is locked in position at the top of the shaft. Some people think this and think there is something wrong with their reel and there isn't.)

You might want to go ahead and check it. Too many on will definately affect casting distance. Here's how you open the Revo...

They don't have to be set in pairs. But for me, two ON give adequate braking and great casting distance. I try to set them symetrically: two ON - across from each other three ON - every other one ON four ON - the two OFF acress from each other

Zoom Finesse and Trick Worms.