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Thanks guys. I really appreciate the compliments. I'll give the fin a try and see where it leads. Also going to invest into a tach and maybe play with the prop pitch a little. The boat came with another prop so I might not have to invest in another one! I think I'm just going to get a cable steer trolling motor. I'm no pro here, and cheaper is better in this case. Thanks. Bill

Just showing her off. I just picked her up last week, and spent the whole weekend on her pickin up them fishies. It's my first boat so I stayed small. Shes a 96 Grumman 15ft, 11in. I figured i'd go with something small and simple for my first just to make sure I really like this fishin from a boat thing. So far so good. Plus I can get into spots where people with pretty boats can't go. She's got a newer trailer, and a newer Merc 25 that gets her movin, I clocked her at 24.6 MPH this weekend, that''s with my 300lb. Butt and my buddies 160lb plus gear. Not to shabby. She's slow to get on plane. And was porpusing badly. I trimmed her out one click and the porpusing stopped but still a little slow to get on plane. I believe I'm going to move the current battery(cranking) that's located behind the rear seat (along with the fuel tank) somewhere up front, as well as add a second battery. I just don't know. I really like having the front storage compartments they keep the deck very clean, but I have to get better weight distribution. I'm thinking of taking the front lower deck and making it hinge up as a whole and putting the batteries up there. I need to pull up the deck and see what kind of space I have under there. Also need to add a bow trolling motor. I just can't decide on a cable driven, or a electric steer. Electric would be nice so I can control it from the rear, but I read somewhere they eat up batteries badly. Any Suggestions?????

Perhaps a outrigger made of PVC that can easily be removed for transport? I've seen guys use aluminum struts attaches to a big piece (4-6in) PVC tube as a float. Bill

Hey great guys. Thanks! I went to get stickers yesterday at a local marine dealer and spoke with them about the motor. They said what you all did, it's normal to only have water coming out of the one hole and only when the thermostat opens. Bill

Hey guys. I just bought a new (to me) boat. It has a 25 Merc outboard on it. As I'm aware the unit has a thermostat on it. I'm totally new to this outboard thing. Now my question. I've only ran the engine with ears on it hooked to the garden house. When you initially start the engine up there is a little hole above the prop on the starboard side that begins to pee water. The hole is very low (just below the Stabilizer) and will almost certainly be below the water line. After the engine warms up the water begins to flow from a tube located just behind the tiller handle. This water is very warm and the flow starts and stops normally( thermostat cycling) from this hole. My question here is should there also be a hole above the water line that continually flows water to let you know the water pump is working? I know Currently I have pressure because of the thermostat cycling, but I want to make sure it's working normally before I take it to the lake and put it in water and have it suck water, instead of having city pressure forcing it. Do I just have to wait for it to warm up and expel water from that upper hole to make sure it working? I'll add it's a model 1025311r Bill

Yes you'll need liability insurance at a minimum. What else will kind of depend what state you live in. You can almost guarantee there's going to be some fee when you have the titles transferred for your boat and motor(if applicable) as well as registration stickers. And don't forget plates for the trailer. Other things will depend on how well the boat is equipped. You'll need PFD's for every member you'll have on board. And get something that comfortable for you so you;ll wear it. Especially if your going out alone. You may also need items such as horns, flags and flairs, but this is depending on state laws, and normally the size of your boat. Depending on your state you may also be required to complete a "safe boaters course" a good idea for anyone regardless if your required to or not. Most can be taken online, and have the license mailed to you. Without knowing your state we really can't get into specifics here. I hope you'll consider adding it to your profile. Bill Don't forget money for the snacks and cold gatoraide.

Never heard of that before but in looking at the Texas TPWD page your required to have a PFD for every member on board. But the curious thing is under the type 5 (hybrid) it is listed "TYPE V (Hybrid Device) Required to be worn to be counted as a regulation PFD." Hmmmm............ Guess it only counts as a PFD if your wearing it. Here's the page I got that from http://tpwd.state.tx.us/fishboat/boat/safety/life_jackets/#remember A good vest or suspenders should be comfortable and as non restrictive as possible. you should have no problem wearing it all the time. Bill

Ok gang. I'm looking for a small boat that I can haul around and use instead of using my fish and ski all the time. I came across this one on craigs list and looked like a pretty good deal, perhaps a little high on price, but I think if I could talk him down a little it would make a fine boat. I normally fish smaller inland lakes, as well as Lake Erie( this is why I feel I need a deep v) Normally it's me and one other person fishing. I'm a large guy at 280lbs. I feel I would probably have to install a 45+ lb trolling motor to move it around. Any idea what kind of draft this thing would have? Let me know what you all think http://cleveland.craigslist.org/boa/664874931.html Bill

Yea you'll notice about 8lbs of thrust difference. ;D Sorry I couldn' t resist. Bill

A little pricey but this is what I use. http://www.magnalight.com/c-23-golight-spotlights.aspx?gclid=CKnC4IWKtJMCFQMUGgodG09vCw May give you some ideas. Bill

Hey man looks good. Almost brand new infact. Those are some welds on that spare tire holder ;D Bill

Are you blowing fuses or popping circuit breakers? Maybe you have a trolling motor with a bad bearing That's pulling alot of current. Bill

Open up your trailer plug on the truck. I'm assuming you have like a 7 way or so. Pull the inside (two screws one that crimps the wires and one that holds the contacts in place) and pull it out wires and all. Lots of times the spring breaks on the door and allows water inside. you can get a build up of rust and corrosion in the back of the plug that can cause shorting out. Your original problem because you only had half your lights sounds like a trailer problem, the current problem could go either way. Basschump brings up a very good point about the truck always blowing the fuse, however the receiver could still have some gunk in it that makes contact when you insert the trailer plug. Bill

OK to add to this. The caps don't need to be off when you charge it. They will vent properly when they are on tight. Also when you remove the vent caps there will be little "fingers" of plastic from the top part of the battery that extend down into the battery and will stop some point above the plates. You'll want to add water until the water level is to the bottom of these little "fingers" Bill

Here ya go. It's on their web site. http://store.humminbird.com/humminbird-products/sonar/fishin-buddy/110-fishin-buddy/prod407110-1.html Click on support right under the MSRP Click on product manual Bill

When I red the topic I was thinking of tubing like behind a boat! then I was thinking well it's pretty safe until you get knocked off and loose your swim trunks. I'll never live that one down. Bill

Sounds like a fuel issue to me. I would look for simple things like cracked or cracking fuel line, or a work diaphram in your fuel pump. Sounds like your loosing the siphon of fuel when it sits for a while. Start simple. I don't believe plugs will cause this. If you have a bad plug either it being fouled or a cracked insulator they most likely won't work at all. However if they are old, replace them, it's good PM. BIll

Lemon juice. Or I believe vinegar will work as well, plus it's non toxic when you put it back in the water. Bill

Link is broken BIll

A rectifyer is used to convert AC current (like off of your stator coil) to DC which can then be used to charge your batteries. A regulator adjusts how much DC voltage is fed back into your batteries. Neither item would cause a NO Start condition that I'm aware of. Didn't you post your batteries would not accept a charge when you got them home? Did you get the old parts back? Dosn't sound quite right to me. But if it works, who cares. Bill

Personally I think people tend to relax tooooo much when they use cruise controll. Something you don't really want to do when towing. Aside from the additional shifting it will cause your Transmission to do. When your in control of the throttle you can feather it a bit to help keep the truck from shifting needlessly. Cruise control only sense that the vehicle is slowing down, and will try to prevent this, by applying more throttle until the speed recovers.. It can't determine if your climbing a small hill that will end in 500 feet. So rather than simply loose 1 or 2 mph it will automatically give more throttle to recover often causing the vehicle to down shift. My personal preference is use a tow haul mode if you have one and no cruise. The tow haul mode will increase the pressure in the valve body of the transmission. It will shift harder, thus slipping less. But then again I despise cruise control, don't know why, I just like to be in control I guess. I had a 87 Chevy K-10 with a 6.? liter diesel that had a jake brake and a transmission lockout. Coolest thing in the world when towing heavy trailers. They aren't common on pickups but are available. Also since were on the towing topic, if your trailer starts to sway it's true punching the throttle will straighten it out, also if you have electronic brakes (non surge) and a brake controller in the cab you can manually energize just the trailer brakes and that works REALLY well to straighten it out. Also if using electronic trailer brakes get a GOOD proportional brake controller like a Prodigy. And set the pendulum so the trailer brakes lead the truck brakes when stopping. This will cause the trailer to tug a little on the truck, but prevents it from pushing and possibly causing a jackknife in a hard braking situation Remember balance on the trailer has a HUGE impact on stability. Positive(heavier) tongue weight is much better and safer than negative. If you notice your trailer is unstable and tends to sway try to move things around in it to add more tongue weight to the trailer. Bill

Go to the autoparts store and get some bondo with the fibeglass strands in it. Rough up the surface. Apply a small amount. Sand smooth(wear a respirator!) and paint. The bondo will allow for flexing. Works like a champ. 2 Years and still no leaks on my jon boat. Bill

On the front is easier to controll in currents and such. However I use mine on the transon(rear) and don't have any problems. You have to pay a little more attention when in current cause the boat will tend to over correct more. Bill

Check if you have a Tractor Supply Company near you. The one here in Medina sells a pair of telescopic magnets with tennis balls on the tops. Their meant to help line up your hitch the the trailer when backing up, but they'll do the same thing your talking about. If I remember correctly they were like $20 range. Bill

Have you considered a inflatable? You can get one with floors and a motor mount for about that price. and they are extremely stable to stand up in. google for seaeagle inflatable Check out the SE9 package at the bottom. They can be deflated and easily transported in your pickup and set up ion about 20 minutes if you use a power inflater. Bill