Splat

I'll agree with everybody else so far. Good rule of thumb tho just keep it in mind, from the time your backing into the ramp to the time you your boat and your trailer is clear for the next guy should be under five minutes. If it's taking you alot longer than that, you need to find a better system. Just keep it simple. Launching is MUCH easier than recovering by yourself. When I recover I'll typically tie my boat off at the courtesy dock or somewhere close to the ramp, then get in my truck and get in line and wait my turn. Back the truck in the water, keeping close to the dock that normally runs in between the ramps(this is important for later.) Normally I'll back down a little shallower than if i'm with somebody, this helps keep more of my alignment bunks above water. Next I'll immediately make my way over to my boat, untie and head for the ramp. Now what I normally do (cause I'm TOTALLY AGAINST POWER LOADING cause it TEARS UP RAMPS) is approach the dock slowly. Kill the engine and step off the boat when next to the dock. At this point I can grab my bow line that I used earlier to tie off with and walk the dock up to the trailer pulling the boat. this is where being close is important. When I can I'll jump down onto the ramp it's self (remember jump where's it's dry those things get slick) and then you can continue to pull the boat forward to the trailer. When It's close enough clip on the winch strap and pull her up. toss the bow line on the deck of the boat and pull out slowly. 5 minutes tops again, normally this takes me alone with a 16 Ft. Grumman about 3 minutes from in water, to pulling out. People at the ramps are normally a little more understanding when your alone But you still want to be not necessarily quick, but efficient. Bill

Hummingbird 565. http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?_DARGS=/cabelas/en/common/catalog/item-link.jsp_A&_DAV=MainCatcat21276-cat602011&id=0023393016380a&navCount=9&podId=0023393&parentId=cat602011&masterpathid=&navAction=push&catalogCode=IJ&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat602011&hasJS=true $199 with temp. Not same fishfinder just not the portable version pictured. Has a dual beam transducer. Many people around here in including me have this model and are very happy with it for under 200. Bill

Yes. Typically hitting stuff will cause a abrupt stop of the boat, however not necessarily of you. It's physics 101. If you hit something the boat will stop however you and everything else that's not restrained will continue forward. Could be out of the boat, could be just to the next bench forward. Really you should get a PFD, and they only do you good if your wearing them! Many of us find that a suspender type is the best. They are comfortable, cool, and non restrictive for fishing. All this combined means that you'll wear it. Something along this line is best, thay are automatic inflating so when you go in the water they inflate and keep you alive http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/index/index-display.jsp?id=cat601114&navAction=jump&navCount=1&cmCat=MainCatcat21276&parentType=category&parentId=cat21276 Get one and wear it ALL THE TIME. Remember accidents do happen out on the open water, and people get thrown overboard not only at cruising speed, but also when trolling along and that trolling motor shaft strikes a immovable object(usally while your standing and not very stable). Lot of accidents happen at the dock while boarding your boat, there's a VERY good chance you'll strike something if you slip and fall on the dock. BIll

Any chance you can send that link my way as well. I know this is a older post but I'm hopin someone is still watching it. Bill

I agree with a giving it atleast a day to dry in the sun, 6-8 hours should be plenty. Bill

In that case it's trash. Throw it out and get a new one !!!!!!! ;D Bill

You need to get a cheap multi meter, or at the very least a test light. without your just guessing and replacing parts that may not be needed. If the switch dosen't illuminate anymore this would lead me to believe one of two things, perhaps three, no wait four. 1. The switch could be bad, causing no power out, which would also cause the light to not work 2. You lost source power. Where ever the switch ties in for power is faulty, could be a broken wire, bad fuse(need a ohm meter, just looking dosen't work) or just a loose corroded connection. 3. The ground could be bad. Illuminated switches need a ground for the light to work. Faulty ground can reek havoc, and bea a real mess to trouble shoot. Further more if the switch and the pump ground to the same circuit this could aslo cause the no go on the pump. 4. The pump is bad, and the light is just burnt out on the switch. Invest in a meter, you can find an ultra cheap one like this which allthough not super accurate, it will certainly do it's job for small electrical jobs. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92020 If you want to go over board you can get into a good quality true RMS Fluke meter like this one that I carry at work every day http://www.tequipment.net/Fluke179_1AC-II.html But there's really no need to do that. Bill Edited to add could be a bad motor that drew too much amperage and caused the contracts in the switch to fry, creating a combination of both 1 and 4

There's your problem. The cable for your transducer is sensative to length as well as shielding, just like a VHF or UHF antenna. When they are cut and spliced back together they often won't work correctly. Try contacting hummingbird for a new one. Bill

Put the boat up on some cinder blocks and fill inside with water. This should help you pinpoint the leak. As far as covering the whole bottom I've heard of people using epoxy based paints, or even Rhino Lining for a truck bed,. Bill

How long from shut down to restart, could be vapor lock, or a coil problem. Both will present themselves in the same way. However a coil will start to work again after it cools for a period of time. How long did you run it after the restart? Did it have any other problems after that? I was a factory trained small engine mechanic for about 8 years on OPE, never really worked on outboards but the principals are the same. Bill

Is your vent open on your fuel tank? Almost sounds like a slow venting, or vapor lock problem. Try unscrewing your fuel cap to let it vent next time it acts up. If you vent the cap and the RPM's come back up then you know your creating a vacum in the tank not allowing the fuel to flow properly. Could also be a gov problem as someone stated, but lets start easy and cheap and go from there. Bill

Go to the dollar store and get a gallon of "mean Green" spray it on without dilution. I use it on my Camper it's the only thing I can find that will remove black streaks effectivly and won't kill all the plants around it. Bill

I have a Aluminum Grumman 16 ft. and I consider it "normal to take on some water. Were not talking alot but after 3 hours on the water maybe enough for the bilge(800 gph) to take care of in 5-8 sec or so. It's not much at all. Bill

Why don't you out two stake-on ends on the wire you sp0liced together and install a circuit breaker in line. This way if it ever pops you can siply push to reset. http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0031071017271a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=circuit+breaker&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=circuit+breaker&noImage=0 You can also use something like these, however I'm havening trouble finding one rated for more than 30a. You would need some water proof BUTT connectors to connect these. http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0032185018459a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&QueryText=fuse&N=4887&Ntk=Products&Ntx=mode+matchall&Nty=1&Ntt=fuse&noImage=0 Bill

Do you atleast have light in your garage. You can purchase a adapter that will screw into your light socket and give you an outlet if you do. Bill

One that floats! : Bill

Try to remove the grip from the rod first. Then cut. You can the shorten the grip on the open end and slide it back on. You'll still have the nice looking butt of the handle BIll

I too carry a handheld. It's only useful when I go on Lake Erie. The weather on the lake moves REALLY fast and in a small rig like mine it's REAL easy to get into trouble. It's mostly for piece of mind tho. Since I don't have a horn, it can be useful to call for bridges on the cuyahoga river to allow for passage. As a bonus feature most will have the NOAA weather channels, although I rely on instant radar on my phone, as well as watching weather reports before I go out. Never hurts to have one. Bill

I must confess I do the opposite. I fill the tank with fuel first then I can look at the gas pump to determine how much fuel I added and add oil accordingly. I always leave room at the top of the tank for the fuel to swish around. I rely on the drive to the ramp to mix the fuel and oil. It's about 30 miles to Lake Erie so it gets mixed good. Bill

Bassinri, You'll need to purchase the "Prop Nut Kit A". They run about $14. Or if you replace the entire prop (about $30) a new one will come stuck in the instructions in the back of the prop. If your prop is ok and you just need the pin drop me a pm and I'll drop one in the mail to you. We recently lost the prop off our TM last outing (don't ask I don't know how we did it either" so when I bought a new prop a pin came with it that I didn't use. I'd be happy top send it out to you. Bill

Ok gang. After a few more outing on my boat I've determined that I"ll need to have the TM control on my lower deck. Reviews are mixed 50/50 on a electric steer model or cable. A cable steer simply won't reach where I need it to go. Are there kits available to extend the cables for steering like another 60" on a minn kota? I've looked but haven't been able to find anything. BIll

I guess I will now. I just ordered one from Overtons, hopefully it will arrive tomorrow And I can install it for this weekend. Bill

Guys I need help choosing. Normally I would just go with a cable drive because of cost and ease of use. However with how my boat is setup I don't use the raised front deck very often to fish. And I fear that a cable won't reach the lower area(where the front seat is in this photo). If I go with a electric steer (some people hate them) They have a much longer cord on the foot pedal and also a option for wireless(not needed but a toy none the less), plus the added benefit of autopilot. Functionality is more important than cost at this point. It's just how I am. Bill

Yup I also was thinking plugs. Also what Mix Ratio are you using. Is it possiable your a little too rich on oil? That will foul plugs pretty badly, and quick. Bill

Fix A Flat is nasty stuff!!!! Coming from a guy that used to work in a lawn and garden shopp we would put inner tubes in many a tires that people tried fix-a-flat on first. It's like scooping out cold wet white snot. If we found fix-a-flat in a tire it was an additional $10 because of the mess it would make. On a side note the older fix-a-flat was VERY flammable, explosive under pressure. I knew a guy that owned a service shop and was repairing a tire that unknown to him had put fix a flat in. When he inserted the ream tool into the tire it must have caught a steel belt and caused a spark. The tire literally exploded in a fire ball right in front of him. Luckilly no one was hurt. That's why the can's now say NON-Flammable. Just thought I'd share. Bill