fishingdanderson

Thanks. I was working on it and didn't realize you had already done it. lol I used photoshop instead of corel and am not as familiar. Thanks

I don't know why the pics are so huge. If you click on them they show the whole thing. I'll try to shrink them down. They aren't ove the byte limit. oh well, it just annoyed me

these are some other ones a guy wanted me to try. I wasn't too worried about the paint jobs because we were just trying to get a certain action. The last one is a bagley EZ copy.

this was my first round bait that I made. I have made several hundred flat sided baits but wanted to move on to round. I was kinda suprised I could keep it even. It dives about 8" on a regular retrieve and on a slow one makes a wake. I made it months ago but didn't realize my computer had an sd port and couldn't find the usb cable. lol I'll post some others after bit. I've made a bunch since this one.

looks good

Big M's right about the gill. That's probably more for the fishermen. However, when I first saw it I was thinking tilapia. Just a thought.

What is the paulownia wood like? Is it closer to balsa or basswood? Just curious.

I have made hundreds in not thousands of spinnerbaits and just make a single bend back to the main shaft. I have never to my knowlegde had a blade fall off. You have to remember that there isn't any pressure coming forward on the blade, it is all going toward the back of the bait. Also, there isn't a fish on the blade it is on the hook(hopefully). If the fish was on the blade then you would definately need a different bend.

I've used a brass shaker thingy (that's the technical term) that is used to polish up brass for reloading, loaded with busted up walnut shells, I believe, for the media. I have also used polishing compound and a polisher thingy. ( also the technical term)

What you will probably find is that you will need a couple coats. Usually etex tends to pull away a little bit from sharp edges. On LC type baits it will probably be around the front of the bait. On lipless it is around the edge on the top. However, I sometimes get the first coat to cover completely (luck) and if I do than that is all I put on. Most guys put on two coats though. Just my two cents.

I forgot. You could also have some lead that is too hard. I use hard lead sometimes, but it does have to get hot as stated above.

I have had that problem and like ranger said the more I poured the better it got. Also make sure you have a compatible hook. I had some trouble with it more if I used certain hooks because they were a heavier shank size that wasn't supposed to be used in that mold. It fit fine but apparently wasn't giving enough space for the lead to get through quickly before setting up. I also preheat mine with a propane torch and then pour some without a hook in to get the mold hot.

Yes. I bought these just before Christmas. crankbaitcomponents.com I believe

I bought these unpainted from Mike Vann.

I should say that top pattern was a copy of one I saw on here or TU. I can't remember the makers name or I would mention his name. Sorry I can't remember. I liked it though and thought I would give it a try.

I haven't posted any pics for awhile. Part of the reason is I've been making some of these originals. The two bigger ones are for a musky guide up on Salt Fork Lake in Ohio.

Worth has a good selection of spoons. Their prices are per 1000 but they will sell smaller lots for a bigger price but I don't know the difference. Worth makes a lot if not most of the blades and spoons that are sold at other retail stores.

I haven't used the stuff but in rod building a lot of people prefer U-40 over flexcoat so I say go for it.

how thick of lexan can you cut with the tin snips?

I believe your talking about springback titanium wire. You can also buy titanium wire that isn't springback but is more durable than the stainless steel wire. I haven't used it but with any metal their are similar properties and one thing about metal is when you heat it up red hot and bend it and then cool it quickly the molecules want to stay in that molecular structure. That is how things are tempered and annealed which are opposites. Like I said I haven't used the springback titanium but it would be my educated guess that that is what you have to do.

I'm assuming this is the same person who asked this over on TU but I'll answer again anyway.haha I use a calligraphy pen with createx black. It works great. I used to use a sharpie also but had the smearing problem. Anyway, this works great.

It was made originally in Canada. I have a bunch of them that were in their original containers and that is how I know that. An old couple who used to fish in Canada alot in the younger years sold them to me at a huge church yard sale. I probably bought about 60 lures off of them that day and told them to stick some of them back into their car they belonged in a museum. I couldn't stand to see them get took. Anyway, the Beno used to be very popular in Canada. I think it's more similar to a flatfish than the Lazy Ike if I'm not mistaken, but all are similar.

You can't just put that on here and not tell us what it is! GEEZ!!! lol

oh yeah I meant to ask. By pickerel do you mean chain pickerel or walleye like the Canadiens like to say?

Here are a couple different Yellow perch patterns too.